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can anyone identify this guitar?

  • 07-10-2014 10:51pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭


    The brand is aria pro II but what model is it?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 751 ✭✭✭travis1976


    What written on the head stock brother?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭Gazzmonkey


    Just Aria Pro II

    Nothing else written on it, I'm trying to get the name for it so I can order a few parts online !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 542 ✭✭✭biketard


    Never seen that model of Aria Pro II, and nothing is coming up on Google Images. I'd almost be inclined to suggest that someone's put an Aria neck on a different body, but that scratchplate is really Aria-style.

    As for parts, I bet Les Paul-style bits and pieces would fit.

    Where did you get the guitar, OP (if you don't mind my asking)?

    EDIT: Does it say anything at all on the back of the metal neck plate?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭Gazzmonkey


    Bought it in a music shop 12 years ago, can't find any pics of it online either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭Gazzmonkey


    biketard wrote: »
    EDIT: Does it say anything at all on the back of the metal neck plate?

    Metal neck plate?

    is that the part just above the nut?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,410 ✭✭✭✭endacl




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 542 ✭✭✭biketard


    Gazzmonkey wrote: »
    Metal neck plate?

    is that the part just above the nut?

    It's behind where the neck joins the guitar body (but only if the neck is bolted on).

    Like this: http://www.demontguitars.com/Images/Aria%20Pro%20II%20ZZ%20Bladerunner/watermarked/images/neck-plate_jpg.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 542 ✭✭✭biketard


    Gazzmonkey wrote: »
    Bought it in a music shop 12 years ago, can't find any pics of it online either.

    Did you buy it new? (It would help to date it.)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭Gazzmonkey


    Regarding the neck plate, I only see three bolt heads, no plate to remove....

    Also, bought it brand new in Ferguson's music shop in Donegal about 12 years ago, but that guy died a few years ago so no more shop I'm afraid.

    Starting to think it's a fake :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭Gazzmonkey


    I found this but searching online showed no results!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,410 ✭✭✭✭endacl


    Gazzmonkey wrote: »
    I found this but searching online showed no results!

    Guitar number 2083, manufactured in the 8th week of 1999.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭Gazzmonkey


    endacl wrote: »
    Guitar number 2083, manufactured in the 8th week of 1999.

    Thanks for the info, what site / catalog did you find it in?

    EDIT: oh wait, you were going by the serial number I take it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,410 ✭✭✭✭endacl


    Gazzmonkey wrote: »
    Thanks for the info, what site / catalog did you find it in?

    EDIT: oh wait, you were going by the serial number I take it.

    Yep. Serial number. I must admit, I'm stumped. I haven't been stumped by an Aria in a long while...

    :mad:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,410 ✭✭✭✭endacl


    It's a PE series of some description, but the exact model eludes me...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,817 ✭✭✭✭Dord


    It looks like a PE-F30, but with a tuneomatic bridge rather than a trem. Probably just a variation on that model.

    The serial number indicates it was made by Samick. Not sure how consistent their numbering is but most likely the guitar is from '99. I found some japanese site that gave an original list price on the PE-F30 of 30,000yen (217~ euro). That ties in with the model designation. A lot of Japanese guitar companies put the price in the model name.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,817 ✭✭✭✭Dord


    Aria PE-F30

    img59999_real.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭Gazzmonkey


    Thanks for that, it's a tiny bit different but definitely based on the same guitar. At least now I know the name if someone asks.

    The knobs & pickups used to be white but have gone yellow over the years and I can't seem to get them back to white, so I was thinking of getting it reconditioned, is it even worth it really?

    Also, the electrics have been acting up recently so I'll need to have a look inside but can't get the dam knobs off lol.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,410 ✭✭✭✭endacl


    Gazzmonkey wrote: »
    Thanks for that, it's a tiny bit different but definitely based on the same guitar. At least now I know the name if someone asks.

    The knobs & pickups used to be white but have gone yellow over the years and I can't seem to get them back to white, so I was thinking of getting it reconditioned, is it even worth it really?

    Also, the electrics have been acting up recently so I'll need to have a look inside but can't get the dam knobs off lol.

    I wouldn't worry about a bit of discolouration. A guitar should look it's age. You should be able to lever/prise the knobs off using two teaspoons. Put the tips of the spoons under the knob, opposite each other, and press down gently on the handles. They should just pop off. You can protect the finish by keeping a piece of card between the spoons and guitar. Easy job. You could order a special tool called a bushing puller. Only if you want to spend cash on a pointless tool though. The spoons do the job as well as it needs to be done.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,138 ✭✭✭Gregor Samsa


    I always use my shoe lace to pull guitar knobs off. Loop lace in behind knob, and pull.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,410 ✭✭✭✭endacl


    phutyle wrote: »
    I always use my shoe lace to pull guitar knobs off. Loop lace in behind knob, and pull.

    Be careful of that if the knob is well jammed on. You'll be introducing a lateral force. 99 times out of a hundred this won't matter, but the one time can make for an awkward and unnecessary fix. The spoons let you keep an even upward pressure.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,817 ✭✭✭✭Dord


    Gazzmonkey wrote: »
    Thanks for that, it's a tiny bit different but definitely based on the same guitar. At least now I know the name if someone asks.

    The knobs & pickups used to be white but have gone yellow over the years and I can't seem to get them back to white, so I was thinking of getting it reconditioned, is it even worth it really?

    Also, the electrics have been acting up recently so I'll need to have a look inside but can't get the dam knobs off lol.

    Taking the knobs off won't really do much if anything to help the electronics. They're just knobs. Unscrew the pickguard (screws around the edges only) and lift it off. Everything is mounted to it except the jack. Check if any wires are loose etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 816 ✭✭✭Gazzmonkey


    Tried the spoon trick, worked a treat, cheers. I was hoping to find an obvious clue as to why it's crackling & cutting out but unfortunately the electrics seem to be in top nick.

    But the on/off switch does nothing either and the volume knob has become a binary switch, the volume is either full blast or completely mute with alot of buzzing.

    Might just bring it to a guitar shop and get all electrics replaced, anyone know roughly what this work would cost? Never had to get a guitar repaired before.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,023 ✭✭✭il gatto


    I remember these on the market. Cool blend of Gibson and Fender.
    People pay extra for "aged" (yellowy) plastic. Loads of Fenders and Squiers come with it on pickups, knobs etc.
    What do you mean "on/off"? Is there a killswitch on them?
    The crackling and volume problems sound like a bad pot (the bit under the scratchplate the knob turns). They get scratchy with lack of use, damp, age etc. Unscrew the scratchplate and give them a blast of electrical contact cleaner and work them a few dozen times. You should be able to do that without taking the strings off, only loosening the scratchplate. If you do need to take the strings off, don't bother restring it to see if it worked. It's a pain if it hasn't. Hold another guitar up to the Aria and play some notes on the second guitar. The Aria's pickups should work enough to see if it worked.
    Guitars are pretty simple. People often play them for decades and never look under the scratchplate or do even basic maintainance. You shouldn't need to replace the electronics. If the above doesn't work, bring it to a guitar tech and get him to check it out. It should cost €50 max (don't quote me on that). €15-€20 bench fee (to look at it), new pot €10, half hour labour €25ish. If you can use a soldering iron, you can get pots for a fiver and do it yourself.


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