Bike locking technique for u/d lock

tom_tarbucket

Hello

My U lock in some case is a bit small to go around a pole, my seat tube and rear tyre as in like this :

http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--qxCvfd1r--/c_fit,fl_progressive,q_80,w_320/17ysvz29k4gtcjpg.jpg


So my alternative is the Sheldon brown setup :

http://www.sfbike.org/images/resources/lock-sheldon.jpg


Just wondering, instead of the sheldon brown set-up, would I be better putting my u lock through the seat tube. like this :

http://www.halfords.com/wcsstore/HalfordsConsumerDirect/images/catalog/lock_bike001.jpg




I dunno......to me....... putting it through the seat tube seems more solid

Nekarsulm

With the second method pictured, it would be easy to saw through the alloy back wheel rim with a junior hacksaw, and walk away with the bike. Much easier to cut the rim than the D lock.
Just need a replacement rim and away you go.

tom_tarbucket

Nekarsulm wrote: »

With the second method pictured, it would be easy to saw through the alloy back wheel rim with a junior hacksaw, and walk away with the bike. Much easier to cut the rim than the D lock.
Just need a replacement rim and away you go.

Ok so you think if the choice is between locking though the wheel and tire OR the seat tube, the seat tube is a better option

slap/dash

U lock the chain stay and a spoke to the post.

Effects

Nekarsulm wrote: »

With the second method pictured, it would be easy to saw through the alloy back wheel rim with a junior hacksaw, and walk away with the bike. Much easier to cut the rim than the D lock.
Just need a replacement rim and away you go.

Apparently that's not the case. With the tension from the spokes the wheel will pinch the blade of the saw so it won't cut. I wouldn't lock it that way myself as I'd be worried people would try and I'd have to get a new back wheel.

Effects

I usually lock mine through the top of the rear triangle so bike and rear wheel are safe and I use a cable on the front. If I don't have the cable I lock the frame and front wheel. I reckon people would rather take a from wheel than a rear as it's easier and less messy.

DavyD_83

Effects wrote: »

Apparently that's not the case. With the tension from the spokes the wheel will pinch the blade of the saw so it won't cut. I wouldn't lock it that way myself as I'd be worried people would try and I'd have to get a new back wheel.

Yep, Can't honestly remember why, but I've cut through a wheel in the past; It's a serious ammount of effort.
I think the thory behind 2 being preferable to 3 is that although the wheel is hard to get through, it's also not rigid enough to easily use as a level to try and force the lock open.
The frame of the bike can be used in this way with some locks and certain locking techniques.

tomasrojo

The theory behind 2. being superior to 3. is that in 2. the back wheel is locked and the frame is indirectly locked (since the wheel and the frame are inseparable when locked like this, unless the rim of the wheel is broken). In 3. only the frame is locked, so the back wheel can be stolen.

I often use the Sheldon technique, but I use two u-locks (and a security skewer on the front wheel), so I can't vouch for the efficacy of the Sheldon method on its own for long-term parking. I do sometimes leave the bike locked exclusively Sheldon-style for fifteen minutes or so and have never had any trouble.

tom_tarbucket

tomasrojo wrote: »

The theory behind 2. being superior to 3. is that in 2. the back wheel is locked and the frame is indirectly locked (since the wheel and the frame are inseparable when locked like this, unless the rim of the wheel is broken). In 3. only the frame is locked, so the back wheel can be stolen.

I often use the Sheldon technique, but I use two u-locks (and a security skewer on the front wheel), so I can't vouch for the efficacy of the Sheldon method on its own for long-term parking. I do sometimes leave the bike locked exclusively Sheldon-style for fifteen minutes or so and have never had any trouble.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. and I get what your saying.

In my mind and if I were a scummer and seen a bike locked like method 2...... it would make me think visually that its an easier thing to rob. I dunno, method 2 just looks weaker. I know in theory its better but visually just looks more enticing to a scummer.

enas

tom_tarbucket wrote: »

Thanks for taking the time to reply. and I get what your saying.

In my mind and if I were a scummer and seen a bike locked like method 2...... it would make me think visually that its an easier thing to rob. I dunno, method 2 just looks weaker. I know in theory its better but visually just looks more enticing to a scummer.

That's the second most common objection to this technique after the one saying that you can saw through the rim. In practice, this doesn't happen. If the scummer is bad enough, he will only know how to pick cable locks, of which there are still so many. If he's any decent, he will recognise better than you that it's securely attached, and won't bother.

There's honestly nothing wrong with the Sheldon technique, used with the smallest possible u-lock. I've used in highly scummy areas, with no problems whatsoever (I'm always more afraid of vandalism). If it's reassuring, there's always this modified method.

tom_tarbucket

enas wrote: »

That's the second most common objection to this technique after the one saying that you can saw through the rim. In practice, this doesn't happen. If the scummer is bad enough, he will only know how to pick cable locks, of which there are still so many. If he's any decent, he will recognise better than you that it's securely attached, and won't bother.

There's honestly nothing wrong with the Sheldon technique, used with the smallest possible u-lock. I've used in highly scummy areas, with no problems whatsoever (I'm always more afraid of vandalism). If it's reassuring, there's always this modified method.

Thanks. That modified Sheldon method does not look bad