Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Settle a bet ( v small )

  • 25-09-2014 9:51am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 102 ✭✭


    Which gear is easier ? 50/28 or 54/32 ? And could someone explain how they come up with their answer ! Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 634 ✭✭✭rab!dmonkey


    Were you out on the day they taught division in school?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,308 ✭✭✭quozl


    50/28 = 1.78 means 1.78 rotations of the back wheel for every rotation of your pedal crank
    54/32 = 1.68 means 1.68 rotations of the back wheel for every rotation of your pedal crank, ie less distance per rotation of pedal crank, ie easier.

    The smaller the number the easier the gear. So 54/32 is an easier gear.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    depends on what you mean by easier


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 358 ✭✭Rambling Man


    Less difficult probably


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    with the bigger gear it is easier to go faster down hill, so maybe the question should have been 'which is the bigger gear' :)

    op - all you ever wanted to know and more, about gearing can be found at http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,971 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    lennymc wrote: »
    with the bigger gear it is easier to go faster down hill, so maybe the question should have been 'which is the bigger gear' :)

    op - all you ever wanted to know and more, about gearing can be found at http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    Depends on what you mean by faster.

    And "bigger"

    And "all"

    :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,185 ✭✭✭G1032




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭victorcarrera


    There is no difference. Both of you are unfit. All bets are off. :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 36 The Gram


    First thought I had was would you ever combine a 32 cassette with a standard crank?

    If you need that option on the back you probably should have a compact anyway (i.e not using bike for races)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    The Gram wrote: »
    (i.e not using bike for races)

    someone should tell alberto so - http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/contador-rides-srams-new-wifli-red-at-vuelta-35156/

    :)


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 36 The Gram


    lennymc wrote: »
    someone should tell alberto so - [/url]

    :)

    Cheers! I'm sure I've seen mention of Alberto going "semi-compact" with something like a 52 34 up front as well.

    Just how savage is the Vuelta?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    The Gram wrote: »
    Cheers! I'm sure I've seen mention of Alberto going "semi-compact" with something like a 52 34 up front as well.

    Just how savage is the Vuelta?

    depending on the climbs, there are ramps in the 23%+ gradient range.

    Angliru.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,419 ✭✭✭NeedMoreGears


    I'm flirting with the idea of 34/32 for a trip to the Pyrenees next year. I reckon/hope it will allow me spin up some of those 10% gradients without actually dying. Damn my useless leg strength and power/weight ratio


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    I'm flirting with the idea of 34/32 for a trip to the Pyrenees next year. I reckon/hope it will allow me spin up some of those 10% gradients without actually dying. Damn my useless leg strength and power/weight ratio

    I used a 34/32 in the pyrenees two years ago. I would have used the 34/32 had I had it. I found it was more the length of the climbs than the gradient was ground me down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,038 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    I'm flirting with the idea of 34/32 for a trip to the Pyrenees next year. I reckon/hope it will allow me spin up some of those 10% gradients without actually dying. Damn my useless leg strength and power/weight ratio
    As lennymc has said it's the length of the climbs not the gradients. Most average in the 6%-9% bracket and it just a case of sitting back and grinding your way up - a 28 will suffice at the rear. You'll get occasional bits which ramp up above that but not for long.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 102 ✭✭listrybabe


    Thanks for the replies. I lost my bet (a pint). One more question if I were to change from a compact to a standard crank what would that necessitate ? Is it easily done ? More links on chain ? Or anything else I would need to know ? Thanks again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,508 ✭✭✭Lemag


    listrybabe wrote: »
    One more question if I were to change from a compact to a standard crank what would that necessitate ? Is it easily done ?
    The easiest way to do this would be to swap out the compact rings for standard rings. Make sure that the BCD is the same for the new rings as for the old. It's pretty easy to do. You'll just need the correct 'star' tool.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    I switched one of my bikes from a compact to a standard and didn't need to change anything apart from crankset. it was easy :) YMMV however.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    lennymc wrote: »
    I switched one of my bikes from a compact to a standard and didn't need to change anything apart from crankset. it was easy :) YMMV however.

    Did you not have to adjust the height of the front mech.?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭lennymc


    Eamonnator wrote: »
    Did you not have to adjust the height of the front mech.?

    surprisingly, no.

    It was a SRAM groupset and, as everyone know, SRAM is way better than shimano or campag.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    lennymc wrote: »
    surprisingly, no.

    It was a SRAM groupset and, as everyone know, SRAM is way better than shimano or campag.

    and it's not even Friday.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,419 ✭✭✭NeedMoreGears


    As lennymc has said it's the length of the climbs not the gradients. Most average in the 6%-9% bracket and it just a case of sitting back and grinding your way up - a 28 will suffice at the rear. You'll get occasional bits which ramp up above that but not for long.

    That's close enough to 10% for me ! AND I was exaggerating about the 10% - a long one at 8% is enough to kill me :o

    More seriously, WBA you're quite right. I've only done one or two long climbs like that - I can plod away quite happily with a 28 up to about 7% or 8% for a good while. I'd only use the 32 for the 10% plus bits that tend to appear just as you're knackered - honest.


Advertisement