Nibe fighet 1245 water heating

badgerhowlin

Hi,

Can someone tell me if its possible to change the count down timer for the temporary Lux.

3, 6, 12 hours are not ideal times to have this going for.
I would rather it be 15, 30, 45 mins.

I find that I only need to turn in on for 15-20 mins to get enough hot water for myself once her self has had a bath.
I always have to turn it on for 3 hours. I dont need it to be on for that long. It does stop heating the water once it reaches 52 deg or so, but that means its heating it up for 39ish(after her bath) to 44 in the 15-20mis I want to have it on.
And it i forget to turn off the timer it will keep heating the water. Which I dont need it to do as its set to do that in the middle of the night anyway, when its cheaper.

soundskin

Hi,

You can't change the temp Lux timer. Unless Nibe change their software for that specific menu then you can't change that. I'd avoid Lux where possible as it may draw in the add heat (immersion)

What are you running on at the moment for Hot Water, economy or normal? Run on normal and see can get a bath from it.

You could also look in the service menu and check for the start and stop temperatures for your hot water settings.

Remember 90% of your heat pump run times goes on heating your house so it's no major cost to heat hot water in comparison. You'll save more money by reducing your curve (heating target) than trying to save by altering hot water settings.

badgerhowlin

Thats what I was afraid that you might say.

Normally we have enough hot water. Its just for them times that my wife decided to have a bath when on my shower night!

I only run lux when I have to give the water a little boost(cause of the wife!) precisely cause it draws on the immersion. Hence only wanting to run it for the shorter times.

I know I can schedule the HP for hot water for through the scheduler but thats too much like hard work(foresight, planning)...

O well guess ill keep doing it the way I'm doing it at present.

Thanks

KCross

badgerhowlin
I often thought that it was annoying as well that the shortest time I could select was 3hrs. Usually 20-30mins is enough boost for me in the rare occasion I've needed it.

Since there is more than one of us would like it updated, I sent an email to Nibe!

Who knows, they might listen and update it in the next version of the software. Its easy enough to update the unit via the USB and it cant be a complicated software update for Nibe to add an additional option to that menu.

regards, KCross

KCross

Nibe wrote back to me within an hour!

Here is what they said:

---

"Thank you for the input, we are always valuing the customer input for further improvements. As for the extra hot water there are two further options, you can always discontinue the hot water increase at any time by removing the “temporary lux” in the menu. There is also the possibility to add any external timers to one of the AUX inputs and using it for activation of the “temporary lux”, it will then only be active for the time that the input signal is active."

---

So, option 1 is OK and it is what we already do but it means you have to remember to come back to it in 30mins. A shorter timer(30mins, 60mins etc) would be better. Just select 30mins and walk away.

Not sure about option 2. That AUX option sounds like you would have to buy a timer that suits you and then wire it in to the HP. Alot of hassle for something relatively minor.

I've asked them to consider updating the menu. If I hear anymore I'll let you know.

badgerhowlin

thanks KCross.

I'm still waiting for the reply!

But I'm sure there is a lot more than the 2 of us out there that wants the timer changed. because lets face it. If you need your lux on for 3 hours to heat your water for a little boost for a shower or 2 you might just need a new system, and if you need it for 9 hours well lets not go there

what address did you write to(info@nibe.se). I might send in another one if thats not the address you sent it to.

KCross

badgerhowlin wrote: »

thanks KCross.

I'm still waiting for the reply!

But I'm sure there is a lot more than the 2 of us out there that wants the timer changed. because lets face it. If you need your lux on for 3 hours to heat your water for a little boost for a shower or 2 you might just need a new system, and if you need it for 9 hours well lets not go there

what address did you write to(info @ nibe.se). I might send in another one if thats not the address you sent it to.

Yup, thats the address I used.

hatchman

Glad to see there are other 1245 users on boards ! I am always looking for ways to tweak it. Just on the update of its software have you done this already on your HP ? I have mine 3 years plus but have never updated its software. Should I look into updating the SW ? Thanks

KCross

hatchman wrote: »

Glad to see there are other 1245 users on boards ! I am always looking for ways to tweak it. Just on the update of its software have you done this already on your HP ? I have mine 3 years plus but have never updated its software. Should I look into updating the SW ? Thanks

I've updated mine twice. Only takes a few minutes with a memory stick.

I dont see any major difference on the main menus. A few things moved/added etc in the Service menu but the main menus that you use for scheduling etc are all still the same.
I think the main differences are really under the hood where they are trying to make it more reliable and more efficient.
Some examples from their docs in the latest update gives:

- Faulty sensor connected to AUX gives alarm
- Upon start of heat pump, circulation pumps perform sensor calibration on both heating and brine side.
- Energy metering now showing delivered energy per demand. NOTE: Old values will be set as heat.
- Hot water control improved and now controlled based on setting ‘Step diff hot water”: x K” in (menu 5.1.1)
- Added automatic speed adaption of brine circulation pump.
- Added automatic speed adaption of heating circulation pump.
- Added menu 5.1.14 for settings of system when activating automatic heating circulation pumps in menu 5.1.11.
- Compatible heat pumps now supported in NIBE Uplink
- etc etc
==================

The Nibe Uplink thing interested me but unless you have a new HP(2014) you have to purchase an upgrade kit to use Nibe uplink which costs several hundred quid so it wasnt worth that to me. The Nibe Uplink looks cool though, you can monitor your system via the web and if you have a premium(paid) account you can make changes remotely and it would email you if it has any issues/alarms etc. That would have been useful but not worth 400-500 euro.

Not sure what the enerygy metering one is. I dont see any metering in the menus. Must have another look at that one.

I'd imagine getting the latest software running on your system is recommended to get the best out of it but not absolutely necessary.

RavenII

I have a 1145, same menu structure though... you can't select less than 3hrs...i.e. 3hours temporary extra hot water etc....under advance there's the timing or scheduling menus...once the water is heated the machine stops anyway, and it's peanuts to heat the HW anyway

I set my hot water to 'off' from 9:00Am till 18:00 weekdays and take increased or 'lux' HW wary in the morning off the night rate...try calling the Irish agents Unipipe for help instead of Sweden!

KCross

RavenII wrote: »

I have a 1145, same menu structure though... you can't select less than 3hrs...i.e. 3hours temporary extra hot water etc....under advance there's the timing or scheduling menus...once the water is heated the machine stops anyway, and it's peanuts to heat the HW anyway

I set my hot water to 'off' from 9:00Am till 18:00 weekdays and take increased or 'lux' HW wary in the morning off the night rate...try calling the Irish agents Unipipe for help instead of Sweden!

The "temp lux" feature overrides the scheduling so your off schedule would be irrelevant in that case and "temp lux" will take the HW to its max temperature of about 50C which is unnecessary if you just want a small bit of extra water.

Our point was that if we just want a small boost for one shower why not have a shorter timer of say 30mins. This isnt something you would be doing everyday, just useful when you do need it.

As you said, heating the HW is small money anyway but every little helps and a small update to their menu by adding another shorter timer would be a simple change for Nibe to make.

Unipipe wont be able to help. Their are just the distributors AFAIK. They wouldnt be able to make updates to the software... only Nibe can do that.

hatchman

KCross wrote:

I've updated mine twice. Only takes a few minutes with a memory stick.

hi KCross thanks for all your info much appreciated. I have never needed to use temporary lux always seem to have enough hot water for shower even if the kids have taken a bath ! now I'm wondering is the additional heat coming without me knowing ? I have it blocked but would it kick in if there is a large demand for the hot water ? I have the hot water on economy since it was installed. With regards to the software update where do I download it from I have searched the nibe site and unipipe but can't find it :-( also will I have to take note of all my settings prior to updating are they set to default post update ? sorry for all the questions !

KCross

hatchman wrote: »

hi KCross thanks for all your info much appreciated. I have never needed to use temporary lux always seem to have enough hot water for shower even if the kids have taken a bath ! now I'm wondering is the additional heat coming without me knowing ? I have it blocked but would it kick in if there is a large demand for the hot water ? I have the hot water on economy since it was installed. With regards to the software update where do I download it from I have searched the nibe site and unipipe but can't find it :-( also will I have to take note of all my settings prior to updating are they set to default post update ? sorry for all the questions !

If you have HW blocked it shouldn't come on. If you don't have it blocked the HP will come on to ensure you have an endless supply of HW. A simple test is the next time you fill a bath of water you should see the HW temp reading in the HP dropping significantly. If it starts to go back up to normal temp (40C+) then you know it is not blocked.

What schedule(s) do you have setup for HW?

The software is available via the Nibe Uplink site…. nibeuplink.com
You have to register and you might need your HP's serial number which you can get from the menu.

The update doesn't affect any of your settings, they are all maintained(so far for me anyway with my 2 updates on my F1145 which should be the same as the F1245)

hatchman

KCross wrote:

What schedule(s) do you have setup for HW?

I don't have a schedule for the HW. I reckoned it would be just as economical to have it on all the time. I was worried that the HW might be heated by the immersion rather than the hp at times of high demand. I updated firmware with no issues thanks for info. do you reckon I should get it professionally serviced before winter ? its three years installed and I never got it serviced.

KCross

hatchman wrote: »

I don't have a schedule for the HW. I reckoned it would be just as economical to have it on all the time. I was worried that the HW might be heated by the immersion rather than the hp at times of high demand. I updated firmware with no issues thanks for info. do you reckon I should get it professionally serviced before winter ? its three years installed and I never got it serviced.

If you have no schedule for water and the internal temp sensor in the tank drops below a certain level the HP will come on and boost the temp back up to its normal temp. That is likely to happen during day rate electricity since that is when you draw off the HW.

If you don't use a large quantity of HW it will save a few euro to limit the HW to just night saver electricity. Otherwise most of your water will be generated during day rate since you are likely to use water in the evenings and the HP will boost it before the night rate kicks in and so there would be little or no HW being generated using night rate since there will be no draw on HW during those hours. So, whatever it costs you today to generate the HW is almost twice what it needs to be.

On the servicing… I don't know. I've mine for 2 years and have not had a service either. Not even sure what a service would involve. If the HP is not showing any errors in its log in the info menu then everything is probably OK although I do know there are filters that can get clogged up and you need to ensure that the brine and UFH water pressures are correct… again if these were way off the HP would trip out with an alarm.

Are there any HP service people out there that could shed some light on whether a yearly service is required as opposed to recommended?

hatchman

KCross wrote:

If you don't use a large quantity of HW it will save a few euro to limit the HW to just night saver electricity. Otherwise most of your water will be generated during day rate since you are likely to use water in the evenings and the HP will boost it before the night rate kicks in and so there would be little or no HW being generated using night rate since there will be no draw on HW during those hours. So, whatever it costs you today to generate the HW is almost twice what it needs to be.

It never entered my head to limit the hot water to night time makes a lot of sense but we have gotten so used to have endless hot water any time be very hard to change now unless I could make a big saving. I was under the impression that the HW was only a small part of the total running cost but that may only be valid if its limited to night saver electricity ? it would also reduce compressor starts too !

KCross

hatchman wrote: »

It never entered my head to limit the hot water to night time makes a lot of sense but we have gotten so used to have endless hot water any time be very hard to change now unless I could make a big saving. I was under the impression that the HW was only a small part of the total running cost but that may only be valid if its limited to night saver electricity ? it would also reduce compressor starts too !

HW for me costs about €100 a year, I think.
You can roughly calculate it by looking at the number of hours the HP has spent heating hot water. That reading is in the INFO menu under compressor starts. It gives the total hours the compressor has spent heating HW.
Just do the math after that...
<HW hrs> x <kW's that HP uses when on> x <cost per kwh from your elec provider>

By changing it to night saver you would probably save somewhere between €50-100 /yr depending on usage. So, the saving is small enough but why not.. better in your pocket than ESB!

We very rarely run out of HW so I'd recommend you try it. You can always get it to heat extra water at night to make sure there is enough for the day. There are 3 settings... economy, normal, luxury

If you find you are running out of water just go another step up to normal or luxury.
If that still isnt enough you must be using ALOT of hot water. You could add a 30min boost during the day to make sure you have enough for evening using the HW schedules.

hatchman

Guys wondering could anyone advise me on an alarm I'm getting when the heat pump is heating the hot water. I'm getting high condition alarm and as it's not logged in the alarm log and it resets the next time the compressor turns on, I've no idea how long it's going on. The service guy noticed it after the service that the temp for condenser out (BT12) was getting too close to 65 degrees (it's alarm temp) when trying to heat the water. The temp of water (BT6) wasn't close to its turn of setting of 38 ! The question I have is the hot water coil in tank not transferring the heat quickly enough to tank water and causing the condenser to heat up too much or could it be something else ? The difference of temp between flow entering coil and return of coil is about 6 degrees during hot water charging, is this an adequate amount of heat transfer ? I'm worried the coil is covered in limescale ! This would be a nightmare ! Any help would really appreciated :-(

soundskin

Hatchman

Is this a recent problem or is it happening from day one? What kind of tank do you have?

Check your sensor location, sometimes they can get pulled away from their original position in the sensor pocket thus giving you a incorrect hot water temp, therefore the heat pump will keep working towards a hot water temp it won't reach despite the tank being full of really hot water. So you say there if 38 degrees in the tank but are you getting hotter water out your tap?

Is there a vent for the circuit to hot water from the heat pump, the nibe VPA tanks will have a vent as its tank in tank while the newer models are a coil but should also have a vent.

Another think to check is your hot water pump speed the service menu, should be up to 100% for hot water.

So Check:
hot water pump speed menu 5.1.11 i think
vent hot water circuit system (not the hot water itself but the water that heats it)
check sensor location

hatchman

soundskin wrote: »

Hatchman

Is this a recent problem or is it happening from day one? What kind of tank do you have?

Check your sensor location, sometimes they can get pulled away from their original position in the sensor pocket thus giving you a incorrect hot water temp, therefore the heat pump will keep working towards a hot water temp it won't reach despite the tank being full of really hot water. So you say there if 38 degrees in the tank but are you getting hotter water out your tap?

Is there a vent for the circuit to hot water from the heat pump, the nibe VPA tanks will have a vent as its tank in tank while the newer models are a coil but should also have a vent.

Another think to check is your hot water pump speed the service menu, should be up to 100% for hot water.

So Check:
hot water pump speed menu 5.1.11 i think
vent hot water circuit system (not the hot water itself but the water that heats it)
check sensor location

Thanks soundskin, as far as I know it's a stainless steel tank with a coil. The heatpump is installed just over three and half years and only this week I discovered a 3 year old pic on my phone of the exact same alarm i obvisously ignored then as it disapeared so I now think it could be happening from day one as the alarm is not logged in the alarm log and if I'm not watching screen at time of hot water charging I wouldn't see it. The temp sensors on the tank I think are ok the one at top is going to be slightly higher than the one 2 thirds down the tank which is what they are always showing. Currently top sensor (bt7) is 39 degrees and one further down tank (bt6) is 36 degrees the water from tap is matching top sensor reading. The water is definitely not a whole hotter than that anyways. The service guy was convinced it was the medium pump (gp1) and I got a new one (280euros) fitted it and it made no difference. I also forced it to run at 100% and that too made no difference still got alarm I even reduced its speed to 50% and although I got a bigger difference between supply and return temperatures ( around 9 degrees as opposed to 6 on 100%) the alarm still happened. I vented coil circuit before and after fitting pump and I believe there is no air in circuit. I'm on the lowest setting for hot water ie on at 36 and off at 39 degrees. I can see the speed of both the medium pump and brine pump during hot water charging and the brine pump speed does reduce during the cycle from 70% to somewhere just below 60% and medium pump starts at 70% and goes to above 90% at end of cycle before the condenser out (bt12) hits it alarm stop temp of 65. the bt6 sensor reading is usually only a degree of 39 at that stage. Shortly after this the temp (bt6) rises to above 39. I believe all the other temp sensors are reading ok as when system is idle and when circulation of water is through floor not HW tank they all read the same, ie heat medium flow (bt2), heat medium return (bt3) and condenser out (bt12) which I guess makes sense ? I have a new sensor but not sure it's worth fitting as they all seem to be ok but I guess tank sensor bt6 might be worth a shot ? If the brine pump speed slowed more would it allow the system to run longer and or reduce the condenser out from going over 65 degrees ? I also updated the firmware over a month ago and I think it may have re calibrated the sensors ? But the service guy ruled this out as everyone who upgraded would have had the same problem. The service guy is on holidays at moment and I hope he figures out prob without me having to fork out again :-( thanks again

soundskin

You seem to have a good grasp of the issue in fairness to you. Ya most likely won't have issues with sensors in a 1245.

Did the problem occur more in the summer? Since the temps outside have dropped are you still having the issue?

hatchman

soundskin wrote: »

Did the problem occur more in the summer? Since the temps outside have dropped are you still having the issue?

Well not totally sure as only noticed alarm in the last month but the alarm doesn't happen every time it heats the water now (last 2 days) where as 2 weeks ago it was occurring on every cycle ! Is the drop in outside temp some how affecting it ?

soundskin

In this case it's not due to outdoor conditions, sometimes with really high ground temps and results in really high COP and your heat pump in essence becomes more powerful and i've seen where heat pumps can go out on HP alarms on hot water cycles as a result.

Could you a post a few alarm log photos with the temp readings?

hatchman

Hi soundskin, I am not able to attach photos and I had taken some lovely ones :-)

I'll type out the alarm exactly as it appears. hope you can decipher !

"High condenser out temperature (162)
This alarm is automatically reset at the next compressor start.
This alarm may be due to:
-High selected heating curve and/or offset heating curve.
-Low flow in the heating system.
-High selected stop temperature for hot water charging.
If the alarm persists contact the installer."

When the hot water just starts to heat these are the readings in the service menu
service info 3.1
1/10
op. prioritisation

---

hot water
hot water charging(BT6)

---

27.6 C
hot water top (BT7)

---

45.1 C
calculated flow temp.1

---

23.3 C
degree minutes

---

56
outdoor temp.(BT1)

---

5.2 C
brine in (BT10)

---

9.8 C
brine out (BT11)

---

5.5 C
2/10
heat medium flow 1 (BT2)----56..5 C
heat medium return 1 (BT3)----49.8 C
calculated flow temp.1

---

23.3 C
room temperature 1 (BT50) ---22.4 C
external flow temp.(BT25)

---

22.7 C
degree minutes

---

56
external adjustment

---

no
floor drying function

---

off
3/10
avg. outdoor temp

---

6.4 C
hot gas (BT14)

---

87.4 C
liquid line (BT15)

---

49.7 C
suction gas (BT17)

---

11.2 C
brine out (BT11)

---

5.5 C
condensor out (BT12)

---

57.1 c
heat medium flow 1 (BT2)

---

56.5 C
heat medium return 1 (BT3)---49.8 C


And just before the alarm pops up these are the readings in the same menus, my BT6 stop is at 39C.

service info 3.1
1/10
op. prioritisation

---

hot water
hot water charging(BT6)

---

36.0 C
hot water top (BT7)

---

49.4 C
calculated flow temp.1

---

23.3 C
degree minutes

---

50
outdoor temp.(BT1)

---

5.3 C
brine in (BT10)

---

9.9 C
brine out (BT11)

---

5.8 C
2/10
heat medium flow 1 (BT2)----64.5 C
heat medium return 1 (BT3)----57.8 C
calculated flow temp.1

---

23.3 C
room temperature 1 (BT50) ---22.4 C
external flow temp.(BT25)

---

22.6 C
degree minutes

---

50
external adjustment

---

no
floor drying function

---

off
3/10
avg. outdoor temp

---

6.4 C
hot gas (BT14)

---

101.6 C
liquid line (BT15)

---

57.6 C
suction gas (BT17)

---

11.7 C
brine out (BT11)

---

5.8 C
condensor out (BT12)

---

64.9 C
heat medium flow 1 (BT2)

---

64.5 C
heat medium return 1 (BT3)---57.8 C

Thanks again hope you can see something wrong and point me in the right direction.

hatchman

Sorry forgot to add pumps speeds at start of hot water charging GP1 medium pump was at 81% and GP2 brine pump at 66% and just before alarm GP1still @ 81% and GP2 @ 61%. The other day when the hot water heating cycle completed without an alarm the pump speed for GP1 was over 90% and GP2 had reduced to just over 50%. would this reduction of speed have prevented the condenser from getting too hot and so no alarm ? I wonder what criteria controls this automatic adjustment of pump speeds ?

soundskin

It will be your temperature difference between flow and return that will regulate your pump speeds. Your Delta T between BT2 and BT3 is spot on but i can't believe that your BT6 is that low. There is nearly a 20 degrees difference between your flow temp and your hot water charging temp. It is like you are creating the necessary heat, giving it up to the cylinder but your BT6 isn't seeing any of that heat. Otherwise all your readings are spot on.

Very strange, never seen that on a 1245 before. Let me know at the sensor locations and i'll get back to you

hatchman

Should I root out BT6 sensor and swap it with the new one I have ? I don't have the heat conducting paste it says to use in manual would it be ok to take out original and push in new one ? I didn't pull out all the insulation before so not sure what's involved. I have seen bt2 which is in a small metal tube mounted onto the side of the pipe held in with a cable tie. Guess bt6 is something similar but harder to reach and then route it back to circuit board.

hatchman

Hi Soundskin, I changed temp sensor BT6 but it still made no difference even checked temp on the cylinder at BT6 location with multimeter termocouple and it is the same reading. Now I think there maybe a build up of limescale in the cylinder which is preventing/slowing the side wall of the cylinder from showing the actual temp of the water inside, would you think this is possible ? I have a softener on my well water but I didn't have it for the first 7 months after heat pump install and the softener failed a 6 months back and I had to replace. The water is quite hard do you think it could be the culprit ? I heard it maybe possible to descale the inside of the cylinder with something like Fernox DS3 limescale remover ?? Is this a major operation have you ever carried this out ?

soundskin

Hatchman, i've never seen that happen before. There is always a first time for everything when it comes to heat pump issues.

Any developments since your last post?

hatchman

No work carried out since. Engineer advised getting cylinder de-scaled which I intend to do but wife had a baby last week and I am not allowed to fix (mess with) it until weather is a bit better ! Engineer also told me Nibe are bringing out new firmware at the end of the month which some how allows or compensates for limescale build up in cylinder when heating the hot water. So that might get me into new year until i get to use the fernox. Rather it was cleaned out and working correctly than just using new firmware as a fix. I also found out that there is a large plate on the top of the cylinder which is removable and will allow me to see into it and also help when I'm using and removing the fernox. Just need the green light from the better half and i should have more news.

bobslade

Hi Soundskin
I have an Atlantic HP (French badged Nibe 1145 17KW 3 Phase) and have just had a modification - Kit Pool 40 - carried out by the supplier. Prior to this modification no errors occurred in the system for twelve months. Now I'm getting the same problem with error code 162 - High condenser out temperature, but when in heating/pool priority (not on water heating). The compressor cuts out when BT12 reaches 65.1 degrees - first intermittently and now constantly. I am waiting for Atlantic to visit to sort this problem, as the installers seem quite new to HP's. I suspect that a restriction to the heating/pool flow has somehow been introduced into the system during the modification or they have made an error in the system set up. I'll feedback when they have been, unless you have any ideas.

Another value in the compressor information has also recently shown up, since the modification, which I would be grateful for your advice on: The Information/compressor information/Status menu shows, normally, the following: Runs or Off or High Condenser Temp out (162). a new item appears now and then, which is a countdown timer, last seen counting down from 15 minutes. Any ideas why this would appear in this menu now?

RavenII

Why don't you just ring Unipipe who are the importers and offer service back up on their Nibe heat pumps? That condition left unchecked will destroy the heat pump's compressor which will be expensive....or is it a 'grey import' ? Sound strange its French badged !

bobslade wrote: »

Hi Soundskin
I have an Atlantic HP (French badged Nibe 1145 17KW 3 Phase) and have just had a modification - Kit Pool 40 - carried out by the supplier. Prior to this modification no errors occurred in the system for twelve months. Now I'm getting the same problem with error code 162 - High condenser out temperature, but when in heating/pool priority (not on water heating). The compressor cuts out when BT12 reaches 65.1 degrees - first intermittently and now constantly. I am waiting for Atlantic to visit to sort this problem, as the installers seem quite new to HP's. I suspect that a restriction to the heating/pool flow has somehow been introduced into the system during the modification or they have made an error in the system set up. I'll feedback when they have been, unless you have any ideas.

Another value in the compressor information has also recently shown up, since the modification, which I would be grateful for your advice on: The Information/compressor information/Status menu shows, normally, the following: Runs or Off or High Condenser Temp out (162). a new item appears now and then, which is a countdown timer, last seen counting down from 15 minutes. Any ideas why this would appear in this menu now?

KCross

bobslade wrote: »

Another value in the compressor information has also recently shown up, since the modification, which I would be grateful for your advice on: The Information/compressor information/Status menu shows, normally, the following: Runs or Off or High Condenser Temp out (162). a new item appears now and then, which is a countdown timer, last seen counting down from 15 minutes. Any ideas why this would appear in this menu now?

I could be wrong but I think this is a failsafe feature where the compressor is not allowed come on for 15mins after turning off.
So, if your compressor has been running to deliver heat and it stops and then a few mins later there is a call for hot water it wont come back on until the timer has reached zero.

Compressor starts are a big part of the the wear/tear of a compressor so this stops it from cycling on/off continuously.

bobslade

Thank you RavenII & KCross
Firstly, I'm in France and Atlantic are/were the French suppliers for Nibe. The main reason I came to this site is that there are few english spoken blog sites on the Nibe 1145 HP and no others with this problem that I can find.
Must say that I had to visit the loo when I read RavenII's reply and then tried my French on the supplier to voice my concern! Make sense what you say KCross, thanks.

RavenII

Sorry to frighten you but the compressors in heat pumps don't like to be constantly overheated etc., ...it sounds like its not getting rid of heat produced (blocked filter / motorised valves in the wrong place / under-dimensioned pipes etc etc) ....High condenser out temp and short running periods.... get the installer to confirm the installed docking design is one approved by, or from Nibe.

bobslade wrote: »

Thank you RavenII & KCross
Firstly, I'm in France and Atlantic are/were the French suppliers for Nibe. The main reason I came to this site is that there are few english spoken blog sites on the Nibe 1145 HP and no others with this problem that I can find.
Must say that I had to visit the loo when I read RavenII's reply and then tried my French on the supplier to voice my concern! Make sense what you say KCross, thanks.

hatchman

Eventually got around to opening HW cylinder found no limescale at all inside only orange rust colour contamination on the coil but I could wipe it off with my finger (i.e no caked on). I emptied cylinder completely of water and rinsed it out and the coil and inside of cylinder were left sparkling. Once refilled it heated the water without alarm, and has since heated water without issue. BT6 reaches 41C it's shut off point for economy setting with the compressor out temp at approx 59C. Needless to say I was pleased but baffled as to why it is now working correctly. The water at bottom of cylinder was a rusty colour but no other noticeable issues.

KCross

hatchman wrote: »

... Engineer also told me Nibe are bringing out new firmware at the end of the month which some how allows or compensates for limescale build up in cylinder when heating the hot water...

hatchman
That firmware update is available as of 13 Jan 2015.
The change log doesnt give much info though so I dont know if it will help your alarm situation, if you havent already solved it.


The doc that comes with the firmware update just has this...
Changes
• Upon firmware upgrade country must be chosen and is indicated by info alarm (900) until selected.
• Time zone is set automatically when you change country in ”country selection”.
• Other minor bug fixes and improvements.


That doesnt give much info as to what the update has but it might be worth updating anyway.

bobslade

Hello guys,

I thought that it was a long time since I input here in regard to my HP. Turns out that the heat exchanger for the pool, which I sized and installed on the advice of my engineers, is too small and not sinking enough heat into the pool water via secondary circuit, so the water in the primary circuit returning to the HP is too hot.

Kcross is right, the cutting out of the HP is a safety feature that renders it inactive for 15 minutes after BT12 has reached 65.1. It also gives the message High condenser out. I've checked this with Nibe.

I spent 1200 euros on the heat exchanger on the advice of my engineers and am reluctant to replace it, until I can be guaranteed to get it properly sized. They (my installers) won't take any responsibility for that mistake. At present the pool water is naturally at 25 degrees through natural sources, so my wife is fairly happy. However, I feel the winter will cause me some grief, so I need to resolve the matter. Does anyone have any experience of this and can correctly size the Heat Exchanger to match the F1145? My pool is a small indoor one 5m X 3m X1.2m with a water flow from the pump capable of 400 ltrs per minute.

Finally, can one of you look at the readings below for conformity. I spoke to a man at Nibe and he said that Quote "Hot gas temp(BT14), normally that is around 60-70°C, you have a hot gas temp of 88.3°C (for hot water data below). So their may be problem with compressor or lack of refrigerant". I looked at a previous post and the readings are similar to mine, so what is the maximum reading allowed here?

Here's my data after about 10 minutes of running. I would very much appreciate your views.

Menu 1
op. prioritisation

---

hot water (Temp Lux)
hot water charging(BT6)

---

50.8 C
hot water top (BT7)

---

No data showing
calculated flow temp.1

---

30 C
degree minutes

---

100
outdoor temp.(BT1)

---

27.9 C - yes it's true!
brine in (BT10)

---

15.7 C
brine out (BT11)

---

10.6 C

Menu 2
heat medium flow 1 (BT2)----56.0 C
heat medium return 1 (BT3)----50.2 C
calculated flow temp.1

---

30.0 C
room temperature 1 (BT50) --- Not running heating
external flow temp.(BT25)

---

No data
degree minutes

---

100
external adjustment

---

no
floor drying function

---

off

Menu 3

avg. outdoor temp

---

20.4C
hot gas (BT14)

---

88.3 C
liquid line (BT15)

---

51.3 C
suction gas (BT17)

---

14.4 C
brine out (BT11)

---

10.6 C
condensor out (BT12)

---

57.8 C
heat medium flow 1 (BT2)

---

56.0 C
heat medium return 1 (BT3)---50.3 C

Thanks again for your consideration.

Bob

KCross

badgerhowlin wrote: »

Hi,
Can someone tell me if its possible to change the count down timer for the temporary Lux.

3, 6, 12 hours are not ideal times to have this going for.
I would rather it be 15, 30, 45 mins.

I find that I only need to turn in on for 15-20 mins to get enough hot water for myself once her self has had a bath.
I always have to turn it on for 3 hours. I dont need it to be on for that long. It does stop heating the water once it reaches 52 deg or so, but that means its heating it up for 39ish(after her bath) to 44 in the 15-20mis I want to have it on.
And it i forget to turn off the timer it will keep heating the water. Which I dont need it to do as its set to do that in the middle of the night anyway, when its cheaper.

KCross wrote: »

Nibe wrote back to me within an hour!

Here is what they said:

---

"Thank you for the input, we are always valuing the customer input for further improvements. As for the extra hot water there are two further options, you can always discontinue the hot water increase at any time by removing the “temporary lux” in the menu. There is also the possibility to add any external timers to one of the AUX inputs and using it for activation of the “temporary lux”, it will then only be active for the time that the input signal is active."

---

So, option 1 is OK and it is what we already do but it means you have to remember to come back to it in 30mins. A shorter timer(30mins, 60mins etc) would be better. Just select 30mins and walk away.

Not sure about option 2. That AUX option sounds like you would have to buy a timer that suits you and then wire it in to the HP. Alot of hassle for something relatively minor.

I've asked them to consider updating the menu. If I hear anymore I'll let you know.

In the latest firmware update from Nibe they have addressed this issue.

I updated to v7740R2 from the nibeuplink.com site and the temp lux feature now has an extra option called "one time increase".

So, it heats the water to max one time and then goes back to the normal timer settings. Thats perfect, I think.

There are a few other new features in the latest update as well which I'm trying to figure out. It has this new "smart energy source" menu where you enter your electricity price and the start/end of your day/night tariffs and it supposedly optimises itself for cheap electricity. I've configured it but not sure what effect its having. I think it might just affect the "additional heat" rather than the entire system. I'm waiting for Nibe to come back to me to explain it.

andyroid

KCross wrote: »

It has this new "smart energy source" menu where you enter your electricity price and the start/end of your day/night tariffs and it supposedly optimises itself for cheap electricity. I've configured it but not sure what effect its having. I think it might just affect the "additional heat" rather than the entire system. I'm waiting for Nibe to come back to me to explain it.

Hi. Did Nibe ever reply to you?

I'm also curious about that feature, and I can't find any proper documentation that explains the logic behind it.

The updated user manual from Nibe describes a different feature called "smart price adaption" (only available in some countries, and not yet in Ireland). It sounds like that feature tracks the energy supply unit cost dynamically over time and allows the system to minimise power consumption during the higher cost periods whenever they occur. It also allows you to choose which outputs (hot water/space heating/pool) you're happy to sacrifice if the system needs to make a trade off during the high cost periods.

The manual does touch on the "smart energy source" feature, but it sounds more like it is intended to be used when there are multiple different power sources available to the unit at the same time (Solar PV, Wind, Grid etc) and it allows the system to draw power from whichever is most appropriate at the time. It's not at all clear what happens when there is only one source. So I guess it either does nothing special at all, or hopefully it tries to minimise cost by doing things like not heating water if the off peak tariff is soon approaching, or perhaps slightly over heating the water at night to avoid having to heat it during the day.

Clearly, with the Uplink feature Nibe could easily provide a service to monitor the unit's parameters over time and push configuration optimisations dynamically, based on your house's actual energy loss, local temperatures, energy unit cost etc. Maybe that's indeed what the smart energy services already do, or maybe it's not yet that smart. I'd love to have a full explanation from Nibe.