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Astec 63DV Bell Fault 22 call engineer

  • 28-08-2014 7:00am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭


    HI Last night while the alarm was armed it went off and panel showed fault bell 22 call engineer. Following the fault kept showing the error and it wouldn't set again. Later in the morning fault was gone from the panel and now it can be set. Any ideas on what could have cause the problem? Was internal or external bell? Thanks!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    It's an external bell fault. More than likely the bell is knackered. Astec stuff is now obsolete so it will be tricky to get a ditect replacement but you can connect a generic bell with an Astec bell interface.

    Might be better off ringing an alarm company.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    It's an external bell fault. More than likely the bell is knackered. Astec stuff is now obsolete so it will be tricky to get a ditect replacement but you can connect a generic bell with an Astec bell interface.

    Might be better off ringing an alarm company.

    Strange it seems fine now......
    Is it hard to connect a generic bell? eg. Disconnect the ASTEC and reconnect the new one?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    clvk07 wrote: »
    Strange it seems fine now......
    Is it hard to connect a generic bell? eg. Disconnect the ASTEC and reconnect the new one?

    Could be a dodgy connection in the bell.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    Could be a dodgy connection in the bell.

    So Maybe I will open the sounder and check? just put engineering code and open the outside box? Wil the tamper set it off? Should I also reseat the connections and the bell? Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    So Maybe I will open the sounder and check? just put engineering code and open the outside box? Wil the tamper set it off? Should I also reseat the connections and the bell? Thanks

    Bell fault would be the internal bell, Sab would be the external bell.
    If you go into engineering then into the logs you will see which one is causing the issue.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    Bell fault would be the internal bell, Sab would be the external bell.
    If you go into engineering then into the logs you will see which one is causing the issue.

    you are right. I checked the memory and memory 24 is bell fault and memory 23 is sab fault. I didn't spot it last night cause only the last error was displayed. I remember seeing 22 call engineer as well. It gets more complicated with two errors, or easier? :):)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    you are right. I checked the memory and memory 24 is bell fault and memory 23 is sab fault. I didn't spot it last night cause only the last error was displayed. I remember seeing 22 call engineer as well. It gets more complicated with two errors, or easier? :):)

    22 relates to the sounder bus. Only the log will tell you which device is activating it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    22 relates to the sounder bus. Only the log will tell you which device is activating it.

    How do I check that? I went into engineering more function 10 and through the memory log, but as I said both bell and sab fault are there. Any other log which I am not aware to check?Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    How do I check that? I went into engineering more function 10 and through the memory log, but as I said both bell and sab fault are there. Any other log which I am not aware to check?Thanks

    In the log it is showing both bell and sab fault?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    In the log it is showing both bell and sab fault?

    Yes entry 23 is bell and 24 is sab, same time 04.40 yes night time :)
    I guess sab fault was logged first as it is an older entry


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    Yes entry 23 is bell and 24 is sab, same time 04.40 yes night time :)
    I guess sab fault was logged first as it is an older entry

    Could of being either so as both are on the sounder bus.
    Disconnection of each and adding them back on should show which one has the problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    Could of being either so as both are on the sounder bus.
    Disconnection of each and adding them back on should show which one has the problem.

    Maybe I will try with the internal first. Do I just open the cover on the internal bell and disconnect the wires? ( Two I guess ) no changes in engineering mode?

    I put on the alarm today and it was working fine.

    Last night after it went off the error wouldn't clear ( call engineer ) and it wouldn't allow me to set the alarm on again.Only when I woke up error was gone and alarm working again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    Maybe I will try with the internal first. Do I just open the cover on the internal bell and disconnect the wires? ( Two I guess ) no changes in engineering mode?

    I put on the alarm today and it was working fine.

    Last night after it went off the error wouldn't clear ( call engineer ) and it wouldn't allow me to set the alarm on again.Only when I woke up error was gone and alarm working again

    Go into engineer mode, select command 16.
    This will test the internal then external bell. See if a fault appears after they ring.
    If not you need to remove the lid on the internal, go to command 72 and program it out of the system. Same with the external sab, command 73.
    They are added back in with the same command once re connected.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    Go into engineer mode, select command 16.
    This will test the internal then external bell. See if a fault appears after they ring.
    If not you need to remove the lid on the internal, go to command 72 and program it out of the system. Same with the external sab, command 73.
    They are added back in with the same command once re connected.

    Great will give it a go and ;et you know thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    Did the test at the weekend no errors. Put the alarm on the last few days no issues. In case it happens again, I might just open the cover of the sab and check the connection.

    Can I just remove the screws on the sab cover and remove the box in engineering mode? Alarm will not go mad? :)

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    Did the test at the weekend no errors. Put the alarm on the last few days no issues. In case it happens again, I might just open the cover of the sab and check the connection.

    Can I just remove the screws on the sab cover and remove the box in engineering mode? Alarm will not go mad? :)

    Thanks

    If you remove the bell it should sound as its being tampered outside. There is a battery switch you can click out to stop it ringing on the back. If the system is in engineer mode it would not activate inside. There is no harm re doing connection on the external bell plus internal to rule this out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    If you remove the bell it should sound as its being tampered outside. There is a battery switch you can click out to stop it ringing on the back. If the system is in engineer mode it would not activate inside. There is no harm re doing connection on the external bell plus internal to rule this out.

    I thought I could disable the tampers in some way eg. commands.... Hope the switch it is easy to get to :):)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    I thought I could disable the tampers in some way eg. commands.... Hope the switch it is easy to get to :):)

    Once you take the external bell down you will see the switch on the back, Just clicks out :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    Once you take the external bell down you will see the switch on the back, Just clicks out :)

    sorry was away.....will try that.....in case it happens again if I disable the external bell I assume if it is faulty it will still going off even dough it is disabled... The alarm is 10 years old, so I assume the battery its gone ( replaced the one inside 4 years ago) but never got a error message for the battery outside


    any good place to buy a generic sab in case a re wire will not fix it? I assume the wiring it is quite straightforward?


    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    sorry was away.....will try that.....in case it happens again if I disable the external bell I assume if it is faulty it will still going off even dough it is disabled... The alarm is 10 years old, so I assume the battery its gone ( replaced the one inside 4 years ago) but never got a error message for the battery outside


    any good place to buy a generic sab in case a re wire will not fix it? I assume the wiring it is quite straightforward?


    Thanks

    If the SAB is faulty you will not be able to turn it off by using your code on the keypad. It should knock off after 20 minutes tho. If you use a S22 you can replace the external bell with a global SABB. Wiring diagrams are in the S22 but if you have any issues let us know. If you completely down power your alarm, battery and mains and your external bell rings then its not the battery in the bell that is gone. The control panel is only checking voltage on the back up battery in the control panel.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    If the SAB is faulty you will not be able to turn it off by using your code on the keypad. It should knock off after 20 minutes tho. If you use a S22 you can replace the external bell with a global SABB. Wiring diagrams are in the S22 but if you have any issues let us know. If you completely down power your alarm, battery and mains and your external bell rings then its not the battery in the bell that is gone. The control panel is only checking voltage on the back up battery in the control panel.

    Could you PM me a quote for a S22 and generic bell? I guess my alarm doesn't have a S22..... Also when the alarm went off, it was not armed, and by inputting the code on keypad it went off. So does it mean that the problem is not the Sab?

    So the battery on SAB is still ok? I would have thought that after 10 years it would be gone....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    Could you PM me a quote for a S22 and generic bell? I guess my alarm doesn't have a S22..... Also when the alarm went off, it was not armed, and by inputting the code on keypad it went off. So does it mean that the problem is not the Sab?

    So the battery on SAB is still ok? I would have thought that after 10 years it would be gone....

    To be honest it sounds more like a connection issue than a faulty Sab.
    I would check all connection before replacing anything.
    The battery in the outside bell is a rechargeable battery. Life span can vary, I have seen batteries in outside bells working 20 years after the original install.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    To be honest it sounds more like a connection issue than a faulty Sab.
    I would check all connection before replacing anything.
    The battery in the outside bell is a rechargeable battery. Life span can vary, I have seen batteries in outside bells working 20 years after the original install.

    Waiting for a ladder.... will try to do at the weekend... remove bell and check connection before replacing the battery.

    it happened again yesterday when the alarm was armed, but again inputting the code turned the bell off. Test showed no fault again.

    I checked the internal bell and the connection seems fine. Only the lock seems broken, so the screw on the cover doesn't lock the cover. The clip on the other side keeps teh cover in place, but not locked.

    Maybe it is a spider within teh sab touching both wires :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    Waiting for a ladder.... will try to do at the weekend... remove bell and check connection before replacing the battery.

    it happened again yesterday when the alarm was armed, but again inputting the code turned the bell off. Test showed no fault again.

    I checked the internal bell and the connection seems fine. Only the lock seems broken, so the screw on the cover doesn't lock the cover. The clip on the other side keeps teh cover in place, but not locked.

    Maybe it is a spider within teh sab touching both wires :)

    Did you check the log to see what showed up as the alarm activation?
    Even if you see nothing wrong when you take off the bell I would redo the connection.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    Did you check the log to see what showed up as the alarm activation?
    Even if you see nothing wrong when you take off the bell I would redo the connection.

    bell fault 22, and logs showed again two entries one for bell and one for sab.
    Once I take the bell down, the plan is to redo the connection and do some test on the battery....

    Just to be sure, the connection on the frame has two wires, how are they attached to the connector? with a screw or they just clip?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    bell fault 22, and logs showed again two entries one for bell and one for sab.
    Once I take the bell down, the plan is to redo the connection and do some test on the battery....

    Just to be sure, the connection on the frame has two wires, how are they attached to the connector? with a screw or they just clip?

    They are screwed into the two terminals in the Sab base. If that does not solve it you may have to disconnect one of the devices for a couple of days to see which one gives the fault when connected.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    Just removed the Sab didn't go off ??????


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    checked the connection they looked fine. I removed the battery and installed the sab back, it flashed twice, and went off for a sec. When trying to exit engineering mode, it complaint about sab fault. I removed the sab with command 73 ( set to 0) and after it was complaining about bell fault. Removed the sab from the wall and it is fine now.


    I checked the voltage of the battery and it is about 6.5V but coming down quickly one point every second eg. 6.50, 6.49,6.48 etc.....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    If the bell did not ring the battery is dead.
    I would redo the connections either way and disconnect the battery in the Sab. Then re enroll the bell. If it still comes up as a fault you will need to replace it.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    If the bell did not ring the battery is dead.
    I would redo the connections either way and disconnect the battery in the Sab. Then re enroll the bell. If it still comes up as a fault you will need to replace it.

    I checked and the tamper switch which is meant to be down I think it was up, so not sure if that is the reason why the alarm didn't go off.

    When I removed the battery and connected the Sab back I got sab fault. I didn't remove the sab with command 73 when I took down the bell. So The SAB should work without the battery?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    The battery seems about 6.5 V ( checked with the multimeter ) don't think is dead


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    I checked and the tamper switch which is meant to be down I think it was up, so not sure if that is the reason why the alarm didn't go off.

    When I removed the battery and connected the Sab back I got sab fault. I didn't remove the sab with command 73 when I took down the bell. So The SAB should work without the battery?

    Thanks

    When you removed the bell you should of got the sab fault.
    The system is only monitoring the battery in the control panel, not in the bell itself. When you have it removed it can be programmed out of the system. When you put it back up you can re enroll it back on the system.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    When you removed the bell you should of got the sab fault.
    The system is only monitoring the battery in the control panel, not in the bell itself. When you have it removed it can be programmed out of the system. When you put it back up you can re enroll it back on the system.


    Ye but when I put back the sab without battery, the alarm didn't let me out engineering mode as it was complaining about sab.

    So if I understood right, tomorrow I will put the sab back, ( without battery ) re-add the sab into the system with command 73 changing ID from 0 to 1 and the alarm should work? ( I can leave the tamper switch up I suppose or needs to go down? )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    Ye but when I put back the sab without battery, the alarm didn't let me out engineering mode as it was complaining about sab.

    So if I understood right, tomorrow I will put the sab back, ( without battery ) re-add the sab into the system with command 73 changing ID from 0 to 1 and the alarm should work? ( I can leave the tamper switch up I suppose or needs to go down? )

    On the back of the sab there is two switches. One marked battery and the other one is in the center. This is the tamper switch. When you cut the cable to the battery and put the bell back up it should have no effect o the sab. Go into command 73 and re enroll the sab. You should not get a fault.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    altor wrote: »
    On the back of the sab there is two switches. One marked battery and the other one is in the center. This is the tamper switch. When you cut the cable to the battery and put the bell back up it should have no effect o the sab. Go into command 73 and re enroll the sab. You should not get a fault.

    Sorry the one marked battery was pulled up. I thought I had to pull it up to stop the sab to ring ) Should It be down?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    clvk07 wrote: »
    Sorry the one marked battery was pulled up. I thought I had to pull it up to stop the sab to ring ) Should It be down?

    It will be pushed in when the sab is in place on the wall.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    Tried few more things eg. Sab connected directly to the panel and still no joy. (ie. sab is not being recognized ).

    Today I grabbed an S22 and HKC sab. Just tried the S22 by itself and panel gives me the option to add it in.

    This is the wiring of the HKC

    I was wondering where I have to connect 4 and 6 from the S22.

    Do I have to remove the tamper resistor on the HKC connection? or the tamper end of line which I do not require is something else?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 123 ✭✭clvk07


    Sorry here the picture of HKC

    https: // wwwDOTdropboxDOTcom/s/32g1eal83w604sc/HKC-S22.png?dl=0

    just replace dot....


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