Slip Clutch for topper

DanielGibbons

Hi All,

We recently bought a new Malone Semi-Offset topper.

Quality looks very good, seems to be made of decent steel.

We started cutting rushes with the 390 2wd, but it's constantly breaking shearbolts.

I'm basically wondering if anyone would know where to get a slip clutch, as opposed to using shear bolts.

It is a heavy crop of rushes, but I am absolutely certain that there's no stones or anything that would do serious damage.

Stronger bolts is an option but I know it's not recommended.

Please let me know what ye think

Thanks
Dan

jimmy2pens

I bought a fleming semi offset a few years ago, it has a 'Comer' gearbox with a slip clutch. its a great job, very rarely break a bolt. The gear box on many of the semi offset toppers look very similar maybe you could get one of these gearboxes fitted to your Malone topper. I'm sure with a bit of google work you should find a supplier for a comer gearbox.

onyerbikepat

I don't like using a topper to cut rushes for that very reason. I think it's way too severe on the tractor. A slip clutch does sound like what you are looking for alright.

I did a quick google earch and these guys in Dublin have some in a catalogue (page 21).

http://www.farmhand.ie/Home.aspx

http://www.farmhand.ie/FastpartsCatalogue/CatalogueWeb2012/FastpartsPTO2012NP10_04_12.pdf

_Brian

DanielGibbons wrote: »

Hi All,

We recently bought a new Malone Semi-Offset topper.

Quality looks very good, seems to be made of decent steel.

We started cutting rushes with the 390 2wd, but it's constantly breaking shearbolts.

I'm basically wondering if anyone would know where to get a slip clutch, as opposed to using shear bolts.

It is a heavy crop of rushes, but I am absolutely certain that there's no stones or anything that would do serious damage.

Stronger bolts is an option but I know it's not recommended.

Please let me know what ye think

Thanks
Dan

I think your travelling in too fast forward speed..
Move down into lower gear and keep the revs up.. If there is a heavy crop let the machine have time to chomp through rather than shoving on and you're essentially chocking the poor yoke to death..

Damo810

_Brian wrote: »

I think your travelling in too fast forward speed..
Move down into lower gear and keep the revs up.. If there is a heavy crop let the machine have time to chomp through rather than shoving on and you're essentially chocking the poor yoke to death..

This. If your in a heavy crop slow down. Also make sure the balde isn't gone too blunt.

Green farmer

I nearly sure you can get a pto shaft with a slip unit built into it. A local dealer was trying to sell me one when I had to replace my pto shaft. There abit more expensive then standard sharf.

DanielGibbons

Thanks for the responses everyone.

onyerbikepat wrote: »

I don't like using a topper to cut rushes for that very reason. I think it's way too severe on the tractor. A slip clutch does sound like what you are looking for alright.

I did a quick google earch and these guys in Dublin have some in a catalogue (page 21).

http://www.farmhand.ie/Home.aspx

http://www.farmhand.ie/FastpartsCatalogue/CatalogueWeb2012/FastpartsPTO2012NP10_04_12.pdf

Thanks for that. Seems to be exactly what I'm thinking of!

Green farmer wrote: »

I nearly sure you can get a pto shaft with a slip unit built into it. A local dealer was trying to sell me one when I had to replace my pto shaft. There abit more expensive then standard sharf.

The dealer still owes us a shaft, so I might see if we can get one of those for a small few quid extra. Failing that I'll probably go with onyerbikepat's option.

_Brian wrote: »

I think your travelling in too fast forward speed..
Move down into lower gear and keep the revs up.. If there is a heavy crop let the machine have time to chomp through rather than shoving on and you're essentially chocking the poor yoke to death..

Definitely not going to fast, we're being quite careful with it. Tractor is in 3rd gear, with both the speed lever and splitter in low gear. Doing about 1800 rpm, and there's no sound of the engine dying or straining in any way before the bolt goes. Not a puff of smoke

Damo810 wrote: »

This. If your in a heavy crop slow down. Also make sure the balde isn't gone too blunt.

It's a new topper, the blade is grand... But I will keep that in mind for future

_Brian

Really surprised..
When we took over here there were a few acres that haddn't been touched in more than 5 years.. No problems with sheer bolt..

I still say drop another gear and keep revs up.. I find that way it also breaks them up far more rather than just cutting at the but.

on the river

Op get a Mulcher

Wigster

What type if shear bolt are you putting in? Picked up a few from coop last year and they kept breaking even on light rushes . Turned out to be too light. Replaced with specified type and no bother since.

_Brian

on the river wrote: »

Op get a Mulcher

I think that would be OTT
A topper used well does a perfectly fine job..

Green farmer

I have the light ones from the coop as well.sheer very easily as well. Got stainless steel ones , very strong. Topped a lot of rushes. No bother. Hit a few stones, no bother. Next thing hit a bump in the ground. It shattered the knuckle on the pto shaft.sheer bolt didn't break. Next thing I know I'm buying a new entire pto shaft. €130 it cost.
I'm back using to coop sheer bolts again.

DanielGibbons

Hi All,

Sorry for the delay on coming back to this.
Nice to see all the interesting feedback & comments.

All the topping done now for the year, it was very late on during the last field when it occurred to us what could be the issue...

We use a hydraulic top link, and lookng at the way the dust had settled on the piston, we realised the top link was letting itself out a little under the weight of the topper.
This caused the blade to cut deeper than we meant at the back of the topper, meaning it was under more stress... *snap* goes the bolt as a result

Now what I'm concerned about is why the top link is letting itself out... There's no sign of leakage on it, so could it be the valve?

Reggie.

DanielGibbons wrote: »

Hi All,

Sorry for the delay on coming back to this.
Nice to see all the interesting feedback & comments.

All the topping done now for the year, it was very late on during the last field when it occurred to us what could be the issue...

We use a hydraulic top link, and lookng at the way the dust had settled on the piston, we realised the top link was letting itself out a little under the weight of the topper.
This caused the blade to cut deeper than we meant at the back of the topper, meaning it was under more stress... *snap* goes the bolt as a result

Now what I'm concerned about is why the top link is letting itself out... There's no sign of leakage on it, so could it be the valve?

More than likely

DanielGibbons

Reggie. wrote: »

More than likely

How could I test it?

Reggie.

DanielGibbons wrote: »

How could I test it?

I think you can pressure teat them. A mechanic can put a pressure valve on the spool and you work the lever. Could be wrong tho as that could be a test for something else

williemakeit

DanielGibbons wrote: »

Hi All,

Sorry for the delay on coming back to this.
Nice to see all the interesting feedback & comments.

All the topping done now for the year, it was very late on during the last field when it occurred to us what could be the issue..

We use a hydraulic top link, and lookng at the way the dust had settled on the piston, we realised the top link was letting itself out a little under the weight of the topper.
This caused the blade to cut deeper than we meant at the back of the topper, meaning it was under more stress... *snap* goes the bolt as a result

Now what I'm concerned about is why the top link is letting itself out... There's no sign of leakage on it, so could it be the valve?

A quick short term fix is to swap the hydraulic hoses that go into couplings on tractor. Eg place the one from the top coupling into the bottom and vice versa. Try it,

Nekarsulm

williemakeit wrote: »

A quick short term fix is to swap the hydraulic hoses that go into couplings on tractor. Eg place the one from the top coupling into the bottom and vice versa. Try it,

Try a different hyd top link. the oil could be getting past the internal seal in your one. if same thing happens with another top link, it must be your spool valve.

emaherx

on your shear bolt issue... (I know you are finished for the year).
What RPM are you engaging the PTO at?

I have seen a few lads who were previously using double clutch machines, like 100 series Masseys, where right or wrong they could gently clutch in the PTO with engine already at 1800 RPM, when they try the same with the 390 IPTO the machine comes on instantly at full speed putting a lot of strain on the shear bolt.

DanielGibbons

Thanks for all the suggestions. Will give them a shot! We have another top link here, I just need to switch hoses.
As regards the RPM, I never really took notice what speed I would engage it at.. but I'd always reverse back a bit out of the rushes first. So it might start at speed, but not under strain.

Zr105

DanielGibbons wrote: »

Thanks for all the suggestions. Will give them a shot! We have another top link here, I just need to switch hoses.
As regards the RPM, I never really took notice what speed I would engage it at.. but I'd always reverse back a bit out of the rushes first. So it might start at speed, but not under strain.

Might be worth getting a check valve for the ram, if the spool only has a small bit of a weap it may not be worth trying to repair it. A check valve will hold the toplink solid irregardless of the condition of the spool

emaherx

DanielGibbons wrote: »

Thanks for all the suggestions. Will give them a shot! We have another top link here, I just need to switch hoses.
As regards the RPM, I never really took notice what speed I would engage it at.. but I'd always reverse back a bit out of the rushes first. So it might start at speed, but not under strain.

Starting at over 1600 RPM even with the topper lifted clear of the weeds, the shear bolt will be under strain, I'd bet if you started dropping the revs before engaging the PTO the shear bolts will last longer.

_Brian

emaherx wrote: »

Starting at over 1600 RPM even with the topper lifted clear of the weeds, the shear bolt will be under strain, I'd bet if you started dropping the revs before engaging the PTO the shear bolts will last longer.

It's a good point. I always engauge it at idle RPM

J.O. Farmer

_Brian wrote: »

It's a good point. I always engauge it at idle RPM

I would have thought that's what you should do. Never mind the shear bolt what about the strain on gears in the tractor being engaged at high RPM.

Reggie.

Zr105 wrote: »

Might be worth getting a check valve for the ram, if the spool only has a small bit of a weap it may not be worth trying to repair it. A check valve will hold the toplink solid irregardless of the condition of the spool

The ram on my bale squeezers failed on me yesterday and I'm gonna get a replacement one with a check valve. Make a job of it

emaherx

J.O. Farmer wrote: »

I would have thought that's what you should do. Never mind the shear bolt what about the strain on gears in the tractor being engaged at high RPM.

Yes but you would be suprised how many don't realize. It's because their last machine they could ease in the PTO with clutch.

sonnybill

Would you recimmend a Malone topper? 6ft semi offset ?

DanielGibbons

sonnybill wrote: »

Would you recimmend a Malone topper? 6ft semi offset ?

Nothing wrong with the topper since, it's going great. Haven't done much of the heavier rushes yet this year, only light rushes and thistles.
I'd recommend the Malone, seems to be well put together. Paintwork is still in excellent shape!

sonnybill

DanielGibbons wrote: »

Nothing wrong with the topper since, it's going great. Haven't done much of the heavier rushes yet this year, only light rushes and thistles.
I'd recommend the Malone, seems to be well put together. Paintwork is still in excellent shape!

I bought a new Malone .. Direct from factory in claremorris.. Delivery this week

DanielGibbons

sonnybill wrote: »

I bought a new Malone .. Direct from factory in claremorris.. Delivery this week

Good stuff, we'll wear with it!

We bought from local dealer in Ballina, got a fairly good price at the time.

I was using it again today after moving cattle, not a bit of bother.

Top link is still letting itself out, I put the pipes onto the second set of valves and it didn't help... Will have to get a one-way valve!

sonnybill

DanielGibbons wrote: »

Good stuff, we'll wear with it!

We bought from local dealer in Ballina, got a fairly good price at the time.

I was using it again today after moving cattle, not a bit of bother.

Top link is still letting itself out, I put the pipes onto the second set of valves and it didn't help... Will have to get a one-way valve!

Was a second hand one for 850 on DD , got new one with extra set of blades and bag of sheer bolts direct from factory 1100.. I'll mind it .. Few extra quid and I have piece of mind that gearbox is brand new and she was never whacked