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Power steering fluid change

  • 18-08-2014 10:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,921 ✭✭✭


    Going to change out my power steering fluid this week as it's filthy , whats the correct procedure for this ?

    my idea would be suck the old fluid out with a turket baster , remove the return hose and insert it into a bottle , idle the car to drain the old stuff , then re attach the return line to the resevoir and top up ?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,679 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    pudzey101 wrote: »
    Going to change out my power steering fluid this week as it's filthy , whats the correct procedure for this ?

    my idea would be suck the old fluid out with a turket baster , remove the return hose and insert it into a bottle , idle the car to drain the old stuff , then re attach the return line to the resevoir and top up ?
    You'll need to turn the wheel from lock to lock as well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,219 ✭✭✭✭biko


    What car?
    And don't let the system get dry. It'll hurt the pump.

    The easiest way is to suck up old fluid with baster as you say, then fill again.
    Start car and move wheels full lock a few times - don't stay on full lock though.

    Then suck up fluid with baster again, refill fresh fluid and repeat repeat repeat


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,921 ✭✭✭pudzey101


    its a honda integra , no i forget to add never let the pump run completly dry ! , lock wheels both sides to bleed aswell correct ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,679 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Jack the front wheels and put stands under them so both wheels are off the ground and can turn freely.
    Don't run the engine just undo the return pipe and lead it into whatever container you are using to catch the old ATF.
    Turn the wheel lock to lock slowly and the the fluid will be pumped out, you need to keep refilling the reservoir while you are doing this.
    After a few turns the fluid should start to become clear red as it comes out.
    Reconnect all the lines and make sure the reservoir is full.
    Then start the engine and turn the wheel slowly from lock to lock keeping an eye on the reservoir to make sure it stays over the minimum line.
    Job done.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,921 ✭✭✭pudzey101


    Yeah going to disconnect the return hose (the top one) at the reservoir, route it into a container, idle the car, and turn the wheel from lock to lock until no more fluid comes out. Then reinstall the return hose, fill it up with fluid, idle the car, and turn from lock to lock until all the air is out. I thought I might just get a turkey baster with a hose and suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and then idle and turn until no more fluid to suck out. I thought this would be less messy/easier than trying to hook up an extension to the return line and running it to a container. Either way it would be best to suck the fluid out of the reservoir first, as if this is not done, fluid will leak out from the return hose fitting because the normal level is slightly above this opening.

    Will try this later on :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,219 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Tbh I don't think you will have time to refill during car operation. At least I didn't when I did this last year. I had to turn car of and on again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,921 ✭✭✭pudzey101


    biko wrote: »
    Tbh I don't think you will have time to refill during car operation. At least I didn't when I did this last year. I had to turn car of and on again


    I will if I have a mate with me :) if not il have to do what u done :):)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,679 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    No need to start the engine until the last part where you are bleeding the pump.
    Much better to do it engine off.


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