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  • 06-08-2014 5:25pm
    #1
    waynestledger
    Registered Users Posts: 72 ✭✭


    Hi

    I got this table saw for free (pics are attached) :D but it does not have a fence with it. just need some ideas/help for a new one. All the edges of the saw seem to have a slight angle to them also. Dont want to have to buy one really looking to try build one and dont have much cash for parts. Any help would be great.:D:D

    Thanks


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    #2
    woodturner
    Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭woodturner


    Where are you from?


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    #3
    waynestledger
    Registered Users Posts: 72 ✭✭waynestledger


    new ross, wexford


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    #4
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    It looks like a Kity but I could be wrong. Unless you are good at fabricating metal its really less hassle to look for a fence secondhand.
    Tablesaw fences ideally should be anchored front and back to prevent deflection. Google is your friend.


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    #5
    Miname
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭Miname


    Get a decent piece of a nice clean hardwood, something like a 3 or 4 by one. build up a piece at 90 degrees or whatever slight angle until its parrallell to the blade and put a toggle cramp on it as a locking mechanism. the fences with those saws arent all that accurate anyway so make your own.


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    #6
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    Miname wrote: »
    Get a decent piece of a nice clean hardwood, something like a 3 or 4 by one. build up a piece at 90 degrees or whatever slight angle until its parrallell to the blade and put a toggle cramp on it as a locking mechanism. the fences with those saws arent all that accurate anyway so make your own.

    Fences should lock down absolutely parallel to be blade. If the front fence is even slightly turned in you will get pinching of the wood and a possible throwback. Best to do it accurately or not at all.


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    #7
    Miname
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭Miname


    recipio wrote: »
    Fences should lock down absolutely parallel to be blade. If the front fence is even slightly turned in you will get pinching of the wood and a possible throwback. Best to do it accurately or not at all.
    check that again on the out feed the fence is ever so slightly opened out, for ripping solids the fence should kept to the front of the blade to avoid any of those kick-backs, you wont see a proper rip saw with a fence pertruding past the front of the blade and the ones that do only do so slightly. The lads looking for a cheap option to do bits and pieces, a couple of clamps and a bit of time and it works otherwise its more than he wants to spend.


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