sealing a shed roof

Muckit

Have a small lean too shed that's roofed with box profile sheeting. It was put up a ggod dew years back and has always leaked. The dip sh*t that roofed it drove the nails in the valleys!

Is there a sealer that can be got to roll or spray on that might seal things up?

larthehar

Muckit wrote: »

Have a small lean too shed that's roofed with box profile sheeting. It was put up a ggod dew years back and has always leaked. The dip sh*t that roofed it drove the nails in the valleys!

Is there a sealer that can be got to roll or spray on that might seal things up?

Bitumen, looks sh1t but seals great. Black tar type stuff fits into a normal silcon applicator..

Muckit

Don't really care what it looks like so long as it does the trick. A leaky shed roof is very annoying!

jt65

tec 7 or roof 7


http://www.tec7.ie/products/roof7-roof-sealant

clean around the nail and washer with a wire brush or similar and dust off

Muckit

I pulled the nails and used ordinary tech7 last summer but it's leaking again, whether the stuff came loose or l forgot a few goles l don't know but want to do it right now once and for all before the winter.

so l wouldn't mind getting a bitumen type paint on sealer to cover the whole roof.

Anyone ever used anything like this?

Sir Arthur Daley

What do you mean the valleys is it the lower parts of the profile i.e the wide flat sections?

Muckit

Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »

What do you mean the valleys is it the lower parts of the profile i.e the wide flat sections?

Yes. he drove the nails on the flat part directly hitting the timber

Sir Arthur Daley

Muckit wrote: »

Yes. he drove the nails on the flat part directly hitting the timber

That is common pratice for fixing cladding, the opposite for zinc sheet iron where you drive the fixer through the high part. why dont you just use tex screws with the built in washers?

Reggie.

Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »

That is common pratice for fixing cladding, the opposite for zinc sheet iron where you drive the fixer through the high part. why dont you just use tex screws with the built in washers?

I have them tech screws in my roof and its leaking

Sir Arthur Daley

Reggie. wrote: »

I have them tech screws in my roof and its leaking

The screws must not be squeezed enough or they are a very bad quality one and the rubber part is shot.

Muckit

Some of the nails were drove at the incline beside the joint!! So washer not flush.

Also now at this stage bit of rot under the leaking nail holes. Timber will be ok though once sheeting id waterproofed and it is able to dry out.

Muckit

Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »

The screws must not be squeezed enough or they are a very bad quality one and the rubber part is shot.

What's a good brand of tec screw then?

Are you recommending l pull all the nails and replace with tec screws?

Sir Arthur Daley

Muckit wrote: »

What's a good brand of tec screw then?

Any type a cladding/sheeting company sells. Once they have a good thick rubber section. The ones Dairygold sells are grand.

Are you recommending l pull all the nails and replace with tec screws?

Its the only solution if alot are leaving in water, problem with nails is they loose their squeeze, were the nails that he used a pig tail nail and a cup type washer?

Tokyo

Seems like a lot of work to pull up every nail and replace it with a tec screw - though if it's a decent shed otherwise and there aren't a ridiculous amount of nails to replace, it may be worth your while. Otherwise, I'd be jumping up on the roof on a good dry day armed with a few tubes of clear silicone sealant, and putting a good dollop on each nailhead and surrounding sheeting. Should be more than enough to seal it.

gctest50

Strip the sheets off the roof carefully, then flip them upside down
now your holes are on the hills instead of the valleys
then paint them with magic outdoor roof paint

you still need proper screws though or it will be like a power shower in there

49801

Just get it power housed spray painted.
Paint will seal the gaps and holes well

Nekarsulm

If you are the patient type, get a sheet of torch-on felt, and cut it into 2 inch square pieces. Using a blow lamp, heat these and slap them onto each nail hole. Repaired a silo roof with this method where an enthusiastic driver with a buck rake on a front loader punched the sheeting. Never leaked.

Miname

Pull the nails and just tec screw them down properly. Timber shrinks and contracts, especially on roofs and the nails loose their grip fairly fast. if you want stick a small dollop of tec 7 under the seal on each tec screw. normal silicon isnt worth a monkeys in that sort of application. it will just peel off down the road. A good smear of a proper mastic might be another option, but make sure it is a sealing mastic. If you know anyone that works for munster joinery they have their own brand stuff that cant be beat.

moy83

Nekarsulm wrote: »

If you are the patient type, get a sheet of torch-on felt, and cut it into 2 inch square pieces. Using a blow lamp, heat these and slap them onto each nail hole. Repaired a silo roof with this method where an enthusiastic driver with a buck rake on a front loader punched the sheeting. Never leaked.

There is stuff thats handier than using torch on too , I think its called roof repair and comes in different width rolls . Its already adhesive and sticks like mad .
I repaired a flat roof with it a couple of months ago and am very happy with how it worked .
Got it in Brooks in galway I think , less than €20 for a roll

Sir Arthur Daley

I think the best long term solution is just to replace all with tex screws and as another poster suggested to use some sealant too. A good quality tex screw driven correctly ie. not under or over driven wont let water in.
Op you mentioned that some screws are driven at an angle to catch the timber so in those cases screw on some 3x2 onto the timber to make grounds to be able to drive the screw square on.

stoeger

moy83 wrote: »

There is stuff thats handier than using torch on too , I think its called roof repair and comes in different width rolls . Its already adhesive and sticks like mad .
I repaired a flat roof with it a couple of months ago and am very happy with how it worked .
Got it in Brooks in galway I think , less than €20 for a roll

The stuff your talking about is called flash band its mity tack

moy83

stoeger wrote: »

The stuff your talking about is called flash band its mity tack

Thats the one stoeger , I couldn't remember the name .

dzer2

Just to add to your misery Muckit.

The gobbin that nailed it should be taken out and shot.
You are going to find it near impossible to seal even taking off the sheets and reteching them. When the roofer was putting in the nails he has dented the sheeting in the area of the nail and there will be a film of water lying there looking for the hole. If you can take off the sheets and turn them around top to bottom then the hole might not line up with the timbers then get felt washers and gutter bolts and but them through the holes made by the nails and tech the sheets down properly.

Sorry for the news but have had experience of this before:rolleyes:

john p mc g

Windscreen bonding and theres a primer to go on first you will get it in any autofactor silicone isnt worth a ****

Cavanjack

For anybody going working on a shed roof, it would do no harm to read the article in last weeks journal. You cannot be too careful.

Sir Arthur Daley

dzer2 wrote: »

Just to add to your misery Muckit.

The gobbin that nailed it should be taken out and shot.
You are going to find it near impossible to seal even taking off the sheets and reteching them. When the roofer was putting in the nails he has dented the sheeting in the area of the nail and there will be a film of water lying there looking for the hole.

Why are you calling the roofer a gobbin?
The way he roofed it is very common pratice for cladding, I have seen several companies that fix sheeting in the valleys instead of the crest. To say he has dented the sheeting without seeing it is wrong. It was not uncommon to have used nails the same way my father would use a nail and hammer rather than using a cordless drill and screw.

Reggie.

Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »

Why are you calling the roofer a gobbin?
The way he roofed it is very common pratice for cladding, I have seen several companies that fix sheeting in the valleys instead of the crest. To say he has dented the sheeting without seeing it is wrong. It was not uncommon to have used nails the same way my father would use a nail and hammer rather than using a cordless drill and screw.

I've never heard of it been normal practice to put cladding on by the valleys. Bad job IMO

Farmer Pudsey

If you nail or screw on high part of profile without support you will create a little valley that will hold water. So flipping upside down will be a load of work for nothing. Did he use rubber or metal washers. Box profile needs tech screws with rubber washers however bot sure if it is possible to pull all nails and replace with tech screws,

Ordinary silicone will actually rust steel over time. Tiger seal may be your answer. Have a second person with you one puts on the seal and the other lad smears it around nail head with a plastic glove on the hand. Another way would be hot bitumen abs with one of the steel bitumen can with the flap over the nozzle do all the valleys. However if last nail head is at end of sheed you will not be able to do it as it will flow over end of sheet. Would be a hard job as you need to put ver little on and not create water holding points.

If it was me I would use the tiger seal and spread it around ever nail head,

td5man

Reggie. wrote: »

I've never heard of it been normal practice to put cladding on by the valleys. Bad job IMO

Box profile is usually tec screwed in the valleys, not a good idea Imo.

dzer2

Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »

Why are you calling the roofer a gobbin?
The way he roofed it is very common pratice for cladding, I have seen several companies that fix sheeting in the valleys instead of the crest. To say he has dented the sheeting without seeing it is wrong. It was not uncommon to have used nails the same way my father would use a nail and hammer rather than using a cordless drill and screw.

He is a gobbin to drive nails in box profile
I have being roofing sheds since the early eighties with box profile and always have screwed them. The sheeting is dented mark my words have seen it too many times they place the nail on the sheet and and hit it putting a dent in it about 20mm in diameter.

larthehar

Reggie. wrote: »

I've never heard of it been normal practice to put cladding on by the valleys. Bad job IMO

Square/rectangular profile sheets are fixed in the valleys, fixing in the crowns will cause the sheets to buckle due to insufficient strength and screw length.

Corrugated sheets (circular profile) is fixed on the crown, fixing in the valley would greatly restrict drainage as the screw head would cover a large % of the valley. Also the small circular profile has sufficient strength properties to allow fixing in the crown..

Sir Arthur Daley

dzer2 wrote: »

He is a gobbin to drive nails in box profile
I have being roofing sheds since the early eighties with box profile and always have screwed them. The sheeting is dented mark my words have seen it too many times they place the nail on the sheet and and hit it putting a dent in it about 20mm in diameter.

To call it dented is a bit much in fairness, you have to acknowledge alot of roofers used nails to roof sheds even after the early eighties.

dzer2

Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »

To call it dented is a bit much in fairness, you have to acknowledge alot of roofers used nails to roof sheds even after the early eighties.

Yeah and I have repaired alot of them since.

Roofers using nails on box profile only do so because they have not gut a tech gun. Fitting instructions from tegral and Kingspan show screws in valleys. It was the reason that you cannot buy sheeting direct from them now as there was too many lads DIYing the roofs and then complaining about leaks

Muckit

The main 'problem' fixings

Muckit

Someone was looking for a oic of the old nails

Muckit

I pulled all the nails put in like first photo and put a dab of tiger seal on them.

Then l drew my attention to the ones in the valleys. If l couldn't twist the rubber washer, l left well enough alone. Those that moved or worse if whole fixing coming away from sheeting, l pulled. I used a coarse tread tec screw with a small dab of tiger seal for good measure.

Whole roof should be sealed now. Fingers crossed

Miname

I wouldnt be too keen on where they are driven or the angle and i doubt herself likes them on the chopping board muckit.

Sir Arthur Daley

Muckit wrote: »

The main 'problem' fixings

Was them angle nailings throughout the whole roof?

Big Cheese

Pull the problem nails out and use all washers and an exterior flexible sealant like Grabfast or Tec7. Do not use Bitumen as it is a low grade perishable solution. You can also buy patch that can be applied over the nails and 30seconds with a heat gun will seal it.

f140

Muckit wrote: »

I pulled all the nails put in like first photo and put a dab of tiger seal on them.

Then l drew my attention to the ones in the valleys. If l couldn't twist the rubber washer, l left well enough alone. Those that moved or worse if whole fixing coming away from sheeting, l pulled. I used a coarse tread tec screw with a small dab of tiger seal for good measure.

Whole roof should be sealed now. Fingers crossed

I bet you cant wait for rain now to see was your job a success

Muckit

Miname wrote: »

I wouldnt be too keen on where they are driven or the angle and i doubt herself likes them on the chopping board muckit.

I wasn't keen on them there either. That's why they leaked!! I pulled them and sealed the holes.

And that's my chopping board so l'l put them there if l like!! (l wouldn't say that to herself though!!!)

Muckit

Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »

Was them angle nailings throughout the whole roof?

Yep wherever there was an overlap! I can see he was trying to do good that or whatever wouldn't get under, but he ended up making a seive!!

What's the correct nailing at overlaps?

Reggie.

Must get off my ass and do my own roof

Sir Arthur Daley

Muckit wrote: »

Yep wherever there was an overlap! I can see he was trying to do good that or whatever wouldn't get under, but he ended up making a seive!!

That was a major screw up in fairness, even if he drove the nail in the crest on the top or in at right angles to the angle of the profile.

What's the correct nailing at overlaps?

Any roofs i have seen they use stitching screws. A screw down through the top of the crest would also work i imagine.