Removing Campag Powertorque Cranks

Raam

Seems the only way to remove Campag Powertorque cranks is by using one of these (along with a 14mm hex key)...
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/park-tool-campagnolo-bearing-puller-set-cbp3/rp-prod50269



I don't have one of them. Is there a way to remove the cranks without that tool and without destroying them?

Guybrush T

You can remove the cranks easily without the tool. That's just for taking the bearings off.

I'd say you could remove the bearings with any small two legged puller with slim claws, and put them on again with a piece of pipe of the correct diameter.

I ended up buying the tools on the grounds I'd be doing it every couple of years, and they do make it very easy it has to be said.

Raam

The cranks are currently on a pressfit bearing system (or something). I will be moving them to a frame which needs the screw in cups.

Guybrush T

You should still be able to remove the cranks without the tools, just unscrew the allen bolt holding the cranks together a turn or so, then use a small drift to smack it gently on the head, and that will drive one side out, then use a bigger drift to knock out the other side.

The bearings will still be attached to the cranks, and you should probably change them before assembling them into your new frame (for which you need the tools)

Raam

A drift?

Guybrush T

Raam wrote: »

A drift?

Long bar that will fit through the hole in the crank so you can use it to hit the top of the allen bolt

Raam

Guybrush T wrote: »

Long bar that will fit through the hole in the crank so you can use it to hit the top of the allen bolt

A right, so I would insert it from the drive side so that I can knock it out the non-drive side?

07Lapierre

Raam wrote: »

A right, so I would insert it from the drive side so that I can knock it out the non-drive side?

sounds risky to me...if in doubt consult your LBS.

Raam

07Lapierre wrote: »

sounds risky to me...if in doubt consult your LBS.

I bet you stop to ask for directions when you are lost.

07Lapierre

Raam wrote: »

I bet you stop to ask for directions when you are lost.

Nope...but the Jeremy Clarkson rule of "Hitting it with a hammer solves everything" is a bad idea when dealing with Carbon fibre.

At least use a Mallet and hit it "Gently"

bcmf

Make sure that when you remive the power torque cranks that you replace them (onto your new bike or any bike for that matter ) with Ultra Torque cranks. It's the best solution.

Guybrush T

bcmf wrote: »

Make sure that when you remive the power torque cranks that you replace them (onto your new bike or any bike for that matter ) with Ultra Torque cranks. It's the best solution.

Also ignore all the rubbish I wrote above, as it refers to Ultra Torque, not power torque (I'm easily confused and can never remember which is which )

bcmf

Guybrush T wrote: »

Also ignore all the rubbish I wrote above, as it refers to Ultra Torque, not power torque (I'm easily confused and can never remember which is which )

Ah it's easy to remember.
Power = crap
Ultra = Great

gfk_velo

Drifting from the reverse side as suggested by Guybrush T is a *very* bad idea. Don't do it. The insert that is in-moulded into the carbon (if they are the carbon version) is absolutely not designed to take a load in that direction & you really don't want it coming free of the carbon, which is the risk.

Unless the drift is a very eaxct fit, you risk "belling" the thin-walled end of the fixing bolt then damaging the threads when you unscrew it - again, a pretty bad idea, carbon or alloy.

The correct tools to use, that work reliably and won't damage anything provided you use them as directed are:
Campag tools
UT-FC090 - this is a steel plug that sits in the end of the axle after you have removed the bolt AND WASHER (caps are intentional - if you don't remove it, you can be in a world of pain).
UT-FC095 - this is a plasticised card shield that sits between the crank and the puller feet.
Facom Tool
U.301 two legged puller - this is NOT a standard 2-legged puller - it is a type that pushes the two pulling feet in harder against the work (in this case the crank) as you tighten the central jack.

Normal 2 legged pullers tend to slip off, damaging the crank - that's why the Park tool has the black plastic tie on the legs - the problem is that in our experience these are brittle and can (and do) fail.

The tools above are what Campagnolo have recommended from the launch of PT in 2012 and work every time. We have fulled 100s (literally) of PT cranks in the main UK SC workshops and never had a problem.

There is no problem with the PT design if it's treated correctly - most people that have a problem, have a problem because they are doing something / have done something improperly or there is a poor initial installation.

HTH
Graeme
Velotech Cycling Ltd
UK & Ireland Campagnolo Main Service Centre

Raam

A trip to the bike shop so. Thanks everyone.