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Painting kitchen presses.

  • 12-07-2014 2:13pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 83 ✭✭


    I have an old kitchen which I would like to smarten up . Its still in good condition . The doors/drawer fronts/panels are all solid wood . I understand the finish on them now is called washed pine which has a shiny lacquered dark(ish) look. There are about twelve doors ,eight drawer fronts & four side panels.
    I would like to paint them in a bright colour.

    Has anyone here done this type of job successfully.
    What type of paint should be used and what prep. work needed etc. . What are the do's and dont's.

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,189 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Projectx wrote: »
    I have an old kitchen which I would like to smarten up . Its still in good condition . The doors/drawer fronts/panels are all solid wood . I understand the finish on them now is called washed pine which has a shiny lacquered dark(ish) look. There are about twelve doors ,eight drawer fronts & four side panels.
    I would like to paint them in a bright colour.

    Has anyone here done this type of job successfully.
    What type of paint should be used and what prep. work needed etc. . What are the do's and dont's.

    Thanks.

    Go to you local Crown trade counter for advice. Oil based undercoat & a satin finish.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,082 ✭✭✭irelandspurs


    Great website for tips on this here. http://traditionalpainter.com/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,189 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    I forgot to add, use a 4" mohair roller. You'll get no streaks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,819 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    I used a product called " krudcutter" to clean/degrease the cabinets , then a primer then 2 coats of eggshell paint... And +1 on the mohair mini roller...

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 83 ✭✭Projectx


    Thanks for help. I will get some info from paint co's as suggested.

    I should also have asked for suggestion on where I might get replacement doors etc at the right price.

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    I've refinished some kitchen doors and they turned out well, I'll share my experiences! The doors I dealt with were solid oak, shaker style. I cleaned each door thoroughly with sugar soap solution, scrubbing with nylon pot scrubs and used an old toothbrush for the nooks and crannies. Rinsed off with clean water and left to dry. The original lacquer was still pretty sound so I rubbed down very lightly with wet and dry paper to give a good key and wiped down to remove dust. I used Zinnser BIN (shellac-based) primer to prime all over. When dry (dries quick so don't worry about brush strokes etc) I again rubbed down to de-nib, remove any surface imperfections etc. Followed up by 1 coat of oil based undercoat and finished with 2 coats of Colortrend satinwood (water based). I used a foam/ sponge roller to apply paint to large flat panels but layed off with a good quality synthetic brush. I found the Colourtrend satinwood very easy to brush on and get a good finish by brush. As you can see lots of work involved but if you're doing a run of doors you get a rythm going very quickly! It's probably the cheapest way to give an old kitchen new life but it is super labour intensive and you will appreciate why "hand painted" kitchens cost so much in the first place. I don't have any pics of that job but here's one of a waxed pine wardrobe that was given similar treatment (lot's more prep required though on account of original wax finish), finish holds up well in day to day use.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,013 ✭✭✭Peppa Cig


    I've refinished some kitchen doors and they turned out well, I'll share my experiences! The doors I dealt with were solid oak, shaker style. I cleaned each door thoroughly with sugar soap solution, scrubbing with nylon pot scrubs and used an old toothbrush for the nooks and crannies. Rinsed off with clean water and left to dry. The original lacquer was still pretty sound so I rubbed down very lightly with wet and dry paper to give a good key and wiped down to remove dust. I used Zinnser BIN (shellac-based) primer to prime all over. When dry (dries quick so don't worry about brush strokes etc) I again rubbed down to de-nib, remove any surface imperfections etc. Followed up by 1 coat of oil based undercoat and finished with 2 coats of Colortrend satinwood (water based). I used a foam/ sponge roller to apply paint to large flat panels but layed off with a good quality synthetic brush. I found the Colourtrend satinwood very easy to brush on and get a good finish by brush. As you can see lots of work involved but if you're doing a run of doors you get a rythm going very quickly! It's probably the cheapest way to give an old kitchen new life but it is super labour intensive and you will appreciate why "hand painted" kitchens cost so much in the first place. I don't have any pics of that job but here's one of a waxed pine wardrobe that was given similar treatment (lot's more prep required though on account of original wax finish), finish holds up well in day to day use.

    Great job on wardrobe!!
    I have a couple of waxed pine finish items I would like to paint/spray.
    What additional prep did you do to wax finish?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    Peppa Cig wrote: »
    Great job on wardrobe!!
    I have a couple of waxed pine finish items I would like to paint/spray.
    What additional prep did you do to wax finish?

    I scrubbed the wood with nylon pot scrubs dipped in white spirit and wiped off the residue with kitchen towel. I probably used a full packet of the pot scrubs and a whole roll of kitchen paper to remove the wax from this unit. I used fine steel wool and a small brass wire brush on some of the crevices/ fine detail where the wax was ingrained. It took quite some time and I was pretty particular about this stage. That said the Zinnser bin is designed for tricky surfaces like this but I didn't want to take a chance and the results bear witness to that as there's been very little loss of paint through chipping or dings despite the best efforts of my young children! Other than that I was meticulous about rubbing down gently/ denibbing between coats and the result is very much hand painted but you have to examine very close up to see any brush strokes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,819 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    The zinnzer BIN primer is great stuff , that's what I used on tatty laminated kitchen presses,( once the surface is degreased ,) it dries really quick though making it a bit tricky to use,

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,013 ✭✭✭Peppa Cig


    Markcheese wrote: »
    The zinnzer BIN primer is great stuff , that's what I used on tatty laminated kitchen presses,( once the surface is degreased ,) it dries really quick though making it a bit tricky to use,

    Yeh was hoping to use Bin Zinnzer on wax unit without the elbow grease but i guess the finish you get is a result of the prep effort put in.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,082 ✭✭✭irelandspurs


    The website I linked above gives you all the details you need to do this Job properly and Also Adam Bermingham from Roscommon posts on there and his website is here to get some more tips. http://www.myhandpaintedfurniture.com/
    As said by Jack of all, this Job is very labour intensive and getting that bit right goes along way.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27,833 ✭✭✭✭ThisRegard


    Peppa Cig wrote: »
    Yeh was hoping to use Bin Zinnzer on wax unit without the elbow grease but i guess the finish you get is a result of the prep effort put in.

    Not sure about doing it straight on to wax, but I had pine doors and I just washed them down (they weren't greasy as we seldom fry fatty foods), primed them with Zinnzer and pained over with egg shell.

    They turned out very well. The only thing I'd change was that if I was to do it again I'd use a good quality roller rather than a brush to do it, up close you can see the brush strokes but from a distance I'd call it character :)

    The paint has held up pretty well, it's only damaged or cracked in places where one of my kids bashed the crap out of them or used a handle from a grill pan to twist under a drawer handle and hang out of it.


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