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Refitting bathroom

  • 28-06-2014 8:32pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,082 ✭✭✭


    Hi, hope ye can shed some light on what I need to do on this project I am reluctantly about to do... the bathroom's Emerald green tiles are finally getting the bin and the whole bathroom is getting redone (finally cracked by the boss)
    Anyway, what do I need to know about clearing the room. The sink, toilet and bath are all going. Just wondering about breaking the tiles off. 3 of the wall are stud partition, will I need to be very careful not to rip through the underlying studding and if I do what would I need to remedy it? Other than that, tiler and plumber will take over. I just said I would get the demolition part done...Any pointers appreciated


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,190 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Can I suggest putting some insulation boards on the outside walls. These could go over the tiles and you'll be insulating the room at the same time. The boards for 2 outside walls will only cost around €100


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,082 ✭✭✭cfeeneyinterior


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    Can I suggest putting some insulation boards on the outside walls. These could go over the tiles and you'll be insulating the room at the same time. The boards for 2 outside walls will only cost around €100
    Cheers, how do you mean on 2 outside walls. The bathroom has one wall that has a window to outside. All other walls are internal stud. Do you mean leave the tiles and put up insulation inside the bathroom? Then tile on this. What spec of sheet...?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,190 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Cheers, how do you mean on 2 outside walls. The bathroom has one wall that has a window to outside. All other walls are internal stud. Do you mean leave the tiles and put up insulation inside the bathroom? Then tile on this. What spec of sheet...?

    I was assuming that you had 2 outside walls but you just have the one.

    It's just an idea. I'm sure you will have others on soon saying that the tiles need to be removed. I just thought while you were literally ripping the bathroom up you can insulate it very cheaply. The thickness of the insulation is up to you or how much space can you loose in the room.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,082 ✭✭✭cfeeneyinterior


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    I was assuming that you had 2 outside walls but you just have the one.

    It's just an idea. I'm sure you will have others on soon saying that the tiles need to be removed. I just thought while you were literally ripping the bathroom up you can insulate it very cheaply. The thickness of the insulation is up to you or how much space can you loose in the room.
    Hadn't thought of insulation.... Will do now. Small enough bathroom though but would probably be a good idea. Had the house pumped a few Yeats ago but can never have enough insulation right. Thanks for reply.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 iriray


    Hi, hope ye can shed some light on what I need to do on this project I am reluctantly about to do... the bathroom's Emerald green tiles are finally getting the bin and the whole bathroom is getting redone (finally cracked by the boss)
    Anyway, what do I need to know about clearing the room. The sink, toilet and bath are all going. Just wondering about breaking the tiles off. 3 of the wall are stud partition, will I need to be very careful not to rip through the underlying studding and if I do what would I need to remedy it? Other than that, tiler and plumber will take over. I just said I would get the demolition part done...Any pointers appreciated

    Hi cfeeneyinterior,

    I found this and I think this is worth considering…

    "Scandinavia, noted for design concepts, pioneered the idea of trayless showers and Norway, Sweden and Denmark have been using wet room systems for decades now. Australia is another country where trayless showers are used to great effect.

    In previous years, the Irish market had been slow to follow the trend. However, Irish bathrooms are now taking giant steps forward thanks to the introduction here of the common sense Scandinavian wet room system. Now it is possible to completely waterproof, or 'tank' as it is known, the wet area all around the bathroom floor and shower walls and have the water run off to a neatly installed drain in the floor. There has to be an expertly designed and installed gentle slope in the wet area which allows the water to flow into a special low profile drain.

    This is the perfect system for those who find it difficult or awkward getting in and out of shower trays. It is also the perfect design situation where space can be maximised and ugly trays discarded.

    The technical step-by-step procedure for wet rooms is

    - Prepare the substrate (plaster, concrete, tiles, plywood etc)
    - Prepare the surface (with primer for absorbent surfaces, with deep cleaning for ceramic tiles)
    - Perform surface sealing of joints, corners, pipes and drains
    - Apply sealing membrane
    - Fix tiles
    - Grout tiles

    NB!
    If you have already found a plumber you trust to install a wet room system for you, make sure you know how he intends preparing and sealing your wet areas, and draining the water. Get an installation statement from the plumber or tiler and ensure you have a guarantee against leaks."


    Any thoughts over this kind of idea?


    Disclaimer: I have NO connections to any businesses in construction, renovation, plumbing or any of the related industries. I do not sell anything related to these industries.
    I am interested in (as a private person) to live in a home which is comfortable, safe and energy efficient. Still looking for that kind of home in Dublin area.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 933 ✭✭✭jousting with chairs


    As long as the existing tiles are firmly stuck to the wall they can be tiled over directly.Just inquire at any tile shop and they will recommend a standard set flexible adhesive that will do the job.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 iriray


    As long as the existing tiles are firmly stuck to the wall they can be tiled over directly.Just inquire at any tile shop and they will recommend a standard set flexible adhesive that will do the job.

    If this was about kitchen or any other non-wet area I would agree. But not in bathroom - this kind of comment shows that there's no idea what kind moisture load above mentioned solution brings to the bathroom.

    Food for thought (via quick googling):

    - www dot energy quarter dot ie/energy-saving/case-studies/top-tips-domestic-retrofit/

    I didn't find a proper document about Irish regulations / recommendations of indoor moisture control in residential buildings.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,874 ✭✭✭rolliepoley


    Hi, hope ye can shed some light on what I need to do on this project I am reluctantly about to do... the bathroom's Emerald green tiles are finally getting the bin and the whole bathroom is getting redone (finally cracked by the boss)
    Anyway, what do I need to know about clearing the room. The sink, toilet and bath are all going. Just wondering about breaking the tiles off. 3 of the wall are stud partition, will I need to be very careful not to rip through the underlying studding and if I do what would I need to remedy it? Other than that, tiler and plumber will take over. I just said I would get the demolition part done...Any pointers appreciated

    First thing, diconnect all water and mains power, undo all pluming fittings and get yourselfs a sledge hammer if working on your own.
    When all set and done stand if the bath and give it wallop right in the middle, it will make it easy to move when in two halfs. Continue removing the rest of bathroom fittings.
    Then get yourself a hammer and bolster chisel and start tapping away at the tiles they should come off easly enough, if you damage the plasterboard get a sawknife and cut the board across the wall from batten to batten and patch it with new plasterboard.
    Clean up retile and let the pipe benders in.


    PS
    The patching will need some plaster to even the wall out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,082 ✭✭✭cfeeneyinterior


    First thing, diconnect all water and mains power, undo all pluming fittings and get yourselfs a sledge hammer if working on your own.
    When all set and done stand if the bath and give it wallop right in the middle, it will make it easy to move when in two halfs. Continue removing the rest of bathroom fittings.
    Then get yourself a hammer and bolster chisel and start tapping away at the tiles they should come off easly enough, if you damage the plasterboard get a sawknife and cut the board across the wall from batten to batten and patch it with new plasterboard.
    Clean up retile and let the pipe benders in.


    PS
    The patching will need some plaster to even the wall out.
    Think ill bash the old ones off alright. Regarding patching, is it handy enough if its a small area and what should I buy regarding replacement plasterboard and plaster?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,874 ✭✭✭rolliepoley


    I would'nt buy anything untill i had the fittings and tiles off the walls, ya might'nt need to. Yeah its easy enough if your a little handy at doing things.


    Plasterboard.
    http://www.practicaldiy.com/general-building/plasterboard/plasterboard.php




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,082 ✭✭✭cfeeneyinterior


    Handy vid thanks, think I can manage that handy enough. Now she wants alcoves in the wall.... I'll put them where I go through... What type of board should I get if I need it i assume there is specific types for bathroom


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,874 ✭✭✭rolliepoley


    Normal drywall plasterboard and some skimcoat,never heard of a specific type for bathrooms. That first link will tell you what plasterboard you need.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    had similar job recently, tiler just knocked existing tiles off wall that were stuck on for 18yrs...no need to replace platerboard


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