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Making a table, need some advice

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  • 15-06-2014 12:42pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 19,615 ✭✭✭✭


    Hi all, I'm in the process of gathering parts to make a table. Im a novice to any kind of woodcraft so bear with me:)
    I'm keen on making one with 1950's style hairpin legs, like here http://www.theironmill.co.uk/hairpin-legs/4566433806 The table is going to be an office table and occasional dinner table too, measuring approx 200cm x 80cm
    Initially I was hoping to use reclaimed timber beams for it but I've been told that these would have nails buried within in them which would likely cause huge trouble with a saw in cutting. So I've sourced newer oak which isn't quite as thick as a beam but still pretty thick. They are 8 foot lengths.

    So I've been researching table making methods and it seems relatively straightforward. Thing is I don't own half of the tools required so I'm planning instead on buying the oak and then bringing it somewhere that can cut it precisely for me.

    What I'm confused about is where/who I would find to do such a job. Is it a timber mill I'm after or a furniture maker or a joiner ? Any suggestions in the Dublin area appreciated, I'm collecting the wood from Landmark Architectural Salvage in Newcastle, CoDublin.

    Next conundrum is the cut I ask for. Initially I just thought to get four lengths of wood, cut to the exact same length and glue them together before adding a cleat underneath the table top. However having done some further research I realise that some sort of join is needed in order to give it better stability. I saw pictures on a site of a table top with joins cut into them, like a small ridge that slots into the same ridge cut into the next piece. Can anyone enlighten me as to what these joins are called ?

    Also if I bring the wood to a timber mill is this the best place to check/remedy weather or not the wood is absolutely straight ? I don't want to end up with a table that is warped or with some piece of wood that groove upwards, even by a few millimetres. I need to make sure all the sides of the wood are exactly level. Is this something a mill can do or is it more something you'd DIY using an electric sander and spirit level ?

    Finally on vids I've seen of table making they commonly use these really wide clamps for the glueing stage. Any ideas where I could hire a set of these for this one off job ?

    Any help much appreciated ;)


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 370 ✭✭genuine leather


    Hey Muahahaha.
    The first, and i feel the most important aspect before you do any joinery is the moisture content of the wood you bought. I will assume that oak was kiln dried so the MC of the wood will be approx in the 8-15% range. If not this is where it needs to be for internal joinery.

    Where this table is located is another factor(Yeah, a bit of detail even before you start your project:rolleyes:) Will it be a heated room on a regular basis?
    This all boils down to MC, as even timber that has x amount of MC will increase if the room its in has a higher MC.

    That you want this table not to shift,bow etc(the table in your example has some movement going on) this makes the MC even more important. The room that you intend to have this table is where i would, if possible, store the wood for at least a couple of weeks.

    The timber join you mention is a popular finger joint method used in all joinery work shops and straight forward to get done.

    2000m x.800m is a large table to do in the style you want. IMO i feel that you may need some sort of framework/rail under the table to help maintain the clean straight lines you are after.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    +1 with above. If the oak is straight when you get it , believe me it will be banana shaped within a month ! I think you are taking on a job that is a little beyond your ability - no criticism, we have all been there. In general there is no need to cleat the boards - they will need to expand and contract. Glueing them together will need some skill and experience ( and about 8 sash cramps ) to get tight glue lines and lastly I suspect that the hairpin legs will wobble with such a heavy load. ? I think you would have a better table if you made some kind of underframe.
    A good joinery works would probably do the work for you and while a little pricey, you would learn a lot in the process.


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