Kitchen work tops question

Tester46

Hi, I have iroko wood kitchen work tops they were originally oiled with Danish oil. More recently, I have been oiling them with Ronseal Worktop Oil. The problem is that the draining area beside the sink is not waterproof enough. For a few days after they have been oiled, the water beads nicely underneath the draining pots and plates. But, after a couple of days wiping them down, it seems to remove the top layer of oil and the water doesn't bead anymore. It soaks into the wood.

I emailed Ronseal and they said they don't have a product suitable for wooden draining areas. I was going to use their Colron wax remover and then varnish the draining areas with Yacht Varnish. But, the draining area is just part of a longer wooden Worktop and it will look odd if part of it is varnished and the bit next to it is oiled.

Any ideas how to waterproof the draining areas without ruining the look of the oiled iroko countertop? Thanks!

DesWard24

Normal olive oil is your best solution or linseed oil is even better. oil the tops everyday for a week and then once every two weeks there after. You need to let the oil soak in. Having said that, that's the hygienically correct way and original way to do it. However im not sure how much good it would be with the Danish now having soaked in.

jack of all

I don't think oiled wood is suitable for use near sinks/ draining areas. All oil finishes will be adveresely affected by water, varnish and other treatments that leave a permanent film offer more protection initially but once the film is broken (all it takes is a small chip) the moisture will creep under the film and you left with the same problem. I spoke with a specialist counter supplier a number of years ago on this topic, he was quite clear about it- he would advise against using wood near a sink full stop, regardless of species or treatment applied.

recipio

jack of all wrote: »

I don't think oiled wood is suitable for use near sinks/ draining areas. All oil finishes will be adveresely affected by water, varnish and other treatments that leave a permanent film offer more protection initially but once the film is broken (all it takes is a small chip) the moisture will creep under the film and you left with the same problem. I spoke with a specialist counter supplier a number of years ago on this topic, he was quite clear about it- he would advise against using wood near a sink full stop, regardless of species or treatment applied.

Not quiet true. Iroko has natural oils which will resist water for years. All you are trying to do with a draining board is beef up the protection and get it looking nice.
Varnishes of any kind should be avoided as they will form a surface which will break down.
It might be worth trying the new oil/wax combinations like osmopolyx but I havn't tried them myself.

peter bermingham

Clean the work top well then sand start at 150 grit 240 / 320 / 400 then oil with the danish oil a good few light coats is better than one heavy coat. Danish takes at least 8 hours to dry sand with 400 before you apply the last coat 4 coats should be enough. Have fitted a good few of the solid worktops and they do take a good bit of after care. You could use a cabinet scraper in a cabinet scraper holder but you kinda really need to know how to use one to be going down that road
The original coats of danish oil might not be letting Ronseal Worktop Oil soak in