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Arches & Other Parts That Cannot Be Seen...

  • 12-06-2014 5:12pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,899 ✭✭✭


    Hello.

    I finally picked up a low entry jack that fits under my car without the need for blocks of timber and other contraptions. I'm on a bit of a mission at the moment to get the car up to spec for the Terenure show next month and one of the areas I want to tackle is the wheel arches, suspension and brakes.

    With the wheels still on, but the car jacked up, I gave what I could a quick shot of Surfex HD (not diluted) and a blast of the power washer to get an idea of what I'll be working with. The plan is to do one corner at a time: remove wheel, clean and degrease arch liners, clean suspension units, tidy up brake callipers and paint the hubs / discs bells black as they're a bit rusty. Whilst I have the wheels off, I'll clean and reseal the barrels and touch up an stone chips that they've picked up along the way.

    Questions:
    • I have Auto Finesse's Obliterate tar remover but it's just in a regular topped bottle with no spray trigger. What's the best way of getting the product where I want it?
    • I'll want to add some form of protection to the plastics and what not. I have Aerospace 303 but haven't been able to get the best out of it so far. Is this up to the job?

    Any advice, tips or past experiences worth sharing are more than welcome.

    Thank you!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    I have Auto Finesse's Obliterate tar remover but it's just in a regular topped bottle with no spray trigger. What's the best way of getting the product where I want it?

    Wouldnt a chemical trigger go on the bottle?



    I'll want to add some form of protection to the plastics and what not. I have Aerospace 303 but haven't been able to get the best out of it so far. Is this up to the job?


    Aerospace 303 is a very nice product, but a bit expensive for using on the bits that people arent going to see much of. Chemical Guys Bare Bones or any type of tyre dressing should darken the plastics nicely; however, some can be a bit sticky, and if you want something durable, you are looking at expensive products!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,899 ✭✭✭Paddy@CIRL


    Curran wrote: »
    I have Auto Finesse's Obliterate tar remover but it's just in a regular topped bottle with no spray trigger. What's the best way of getting the product where I want it?

    Wouldnt a chemical trigger go on the bottle?



    I'll want to add some form of protection to the plastics and what not. I have Aerospace 303 but haven't been able to get the best out of it so far. Is this up to the job?


    Aerospace 303 is a very nice product, but a bit expensive for using on the bits that people arent going to see much of. Chemical Guys Bare Bones or any type of tyre dressing should darken the plastics nicely; however, some can be a bit sticky, and if you want something durable, you are looking at expensive products!

    I wasn't sure if a tar remover would make quick work of a spray trigger but should have one lying around. I might as well use the 303 as it's the smaller bottle anyways and I don't think I've anything else suitable lying around. Cheers Dave.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,885 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    You can pick up something like this in your local hardware store:

    autobrite-solvent-pressure-sprayer-1-litre-2996-p.jpg

    I got one for about a tenner. It's green and white and made for holding chemicals so it's fine to put tar remover in it. It's very very handy because you just pump a few times then hold down the trigger. It's nicer to use than a normal trigger pump.

    As for sealing afterwards, I would also recommend CHemical Guys Bare Bones as it's specifically for these areas whereas 303 is moreso for engine/interior plastics.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,899 ✭✭✭Paddy@CIRL


    I don't have CG Bare Bones and CleanCar are out of it at the moment. If its back in-stock before I start, I'll give it a go. If not, I'll just use the 303. Also have CG New Look Trim Gel & Silk Shine Dressing if they're of any use?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    CG's New Look Trim Gel will do the job for the show, but mightnt last too long.
    Silk Shine Dressing is water based so wont last.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,899 ✭✭✭Paddy@CIRL


    Made a start at this today for anyone interested...

    DSC01605_zps003d3b9b.jpg

    I didn't go OTT on them as the car is still my daily driver and I need to be realistic about how it's used. The fronts are mostly plastic inner arches so weren't too bad, and I had just gave them a coat of Surfex HD and a blast with the power washer last week. I used a mild APC to remove any dust, a quick de-tar of any components and wire brushed the hubs before giving them two coats of Hammerite Smooth Direct to Rust paint.

    DSC01609_zps27e91bcb.jpg

    I gave the arches once dry a coat of 303 Aerospace and touched up a few small marks on the brake calliper with OEM Phoenix Yellow paint.

    DSC01614_zpse16cbd39.jpg

    With the wheels off, I cleaned them front and back and sealed with Kleers Alloy Wheel Protectant.

    DSC01625_zpse5c44eac.jpg

    I repeated the process on the rear whilst also freshening up the stock callipers with high temperature matt black paint.

    DSC01623_zps7ef2159a.jpg

    I picked these threaded bars up on eBay last week to assist with re-fitting the wheels. They make what can be a nuisance and major PITA as simple as a job as it should be. I'll need a smaller brush to finish the bells before someone points it out :)

    DSC01636_zps7fe0435f.jpg

    I got one side done today and will get the other side finished tomorrow. The rear arches are getting rolled further at the end of the week, and then the car is going for paint and to have some new carbon parts fitted. Slowly getting there...

    Thanks for reading :)


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