Shower Pump

karlitob

Hey guys,

Shower pump has broken. Need to get a new one I reckon. If I buy a new one, is this a job I can do myself? From what I've read/seen, it seems like its something I could tackle and not need a plumber?

Thanks for any advice.

Sleeper12

karlitob wrote: »

Hey guys,

Shower pump has broken. Need to get a new one I reckon. If I buy a new one, is this a job I can do myself? From what I've read/seen, it seems like its something I could tackle and not need a plumber?

Thanks for any advice.

Is it a stand alone pump in the hot press? Or a pump in the shower itself?

karlitob

Sleeper12 wrote: »

Is it a stand alone pump in the hot press? Or a pump in the shower itself?

Stand lone pump.Its an old Stuart. (not Stuart Turner). Can't see the model number (up against the wall). Is it simply a case of unscrewing the inlets/outlets (its not a pressurised system or anything?). Also, there seems to be a small vessel attached (which looks like it could be negative) but its at the side - does any vessel attached make it negative??

Thanks again

Sleeper12

karlitob wrote: »

Stand lone pump.Its an old Stuart. (not Stuart Turner). Can't see the model number (up against the wall). Is it simply a case of unscrewing the inlets/outlets (its not a pressurised system or anything?). Also, there seems to be a small vessel attached (which looks like it could be negative) but its at the side - does any vessel attached make it negative??

Thanks again

I suggest you get a plumber to replace it. If you get the wrong type & it's not as good you'll be kicking yourself.
If you want to go ahead with it yourself then take as many photos as possible & bring them into some plumbing suppliers. They might be able to match it up.
The advantage here of not doing it yourself is there could be a lot of running around trying to match it up

karlitob

Sleeper12 wrote: »

I suggest you get a plumber to replace it. If you get the wrong type & it's not as good you'll be kicking yourself.
If you want to go ahead with it yourself then take as many photos as possible & bring them into some plumbing suppliers. They might be able to match it up.
The advantage here of not doing it yourself is there could be a lot of running around trying to match it up

Thanks Sleeper. But essentially, it is just attaching the outlet/inlet connectors. Theres no pressurising to the system need be done?

Sleeper12

karlitob wrote: »

Thanks Sleeper. But essentially, it is just attaching the outlet/inlet connectors. Theres no pressurising to the system need be done?

All I'm saying is that there could be a bit of running around trying to get a pump to match your one. If your pump is 1.5 bar then you should get a 1.5 bar. If it's 2 bar then get 2 bar. If it is negative head then you need a negative head with the same bar pressure as yours. That's why I was suggesting a plumber.
Also some pump manufacturers give a longer warranty if installed by a plumber. Some don't offer warranty if fitted by diy.

K.Flyer

karlitob wrote: »

Stand lone pump.Its an old Stuart. (not Stuart Turner). Can't see the model number (up against the wall). Is it simply a case of unscrewing the inlets/outlets (its not a pressurised system or anything?). Also, there seems to be a small vessel attached (which looks like it could be negative) but its at the side - does any vessel attached make it negative??

Thanks again

The vessel usually indicates its a negative head.
What colour is the pump and is it possible to post a photo of it?
Most of these pumps are usually repairable.

karlitob

Sleeper12 wrote: »

All I'm saying is that there could be a bit of running around trying to get a pump to match your one. If your pump is 1.5 bar then you should get a 1.5 bar. If it's 2 bar then get 2 bar. If it is negative head then you need a negative head with the same bar pressure as yours. That's why I was suggesting a plumber.
Also some pump manufacturers give a longer warranty if installed by a plumber. Some don't offer warranty if fitted by diy.

Thanks sleeper - appreciate the advice.

karlitob

K.Flyer wrote: »

The vessel usually indicates its a negative head.
What colour is the pump and is it possible to post a photo of it?
Most of these pumps are usually repairable.

Hi K. Flyer
Thanks for responding to the other post with pic. I appreciate it.

So, as it stands:

Wickes Negative Head 1.3bar Twin Impeller (out of production, can't find details on the inter web - so I reckon at least 10 years old).
- I reckon its negative head as there is a small expansion vessel at the side
- its in the hot press
- its 95cm from the tee at the top of the hot water tank to the ceiling. The cold water tank is on the joists just above it.
- from the tee to the floor of the hot press where the pump rests is 170cm

Warwick flange in place

15mm pipes supply it

No shut off valve on the hot supply after the hot water cylinder tee and before the pump. There is on the cold supply.


So, what do I need to do.

Pump:
- I know for a positive head I need a flow rate of .6 litres per minute rather than simply height from the tee to the water tank. Is there a clever way of doing this? Is it simply seeing how quickly the bathroom sink tap fills up a litre bottle?
- or should I stick with the negative head?

- my main concern with buying a new pump is not that it works well, but that it won't break and cause a leak (which is what happened in this instance). So does more expensive mean it won't leak? Or merely more expensive is because its brass and used for a greater need than mine - which is just giving us a 'power shower'.

Warwick Flange
- is this ok to continue using

15mm supply
- Am I right in saying all shower pumps have 15mm connectors?

Shut off valve
- I presume its worthwhile fixing one

Installation
- I reckon this is something I can do. Its not that I don't want to use a plumber - the cost of installation isn't high, I just want to try it myself. I understand the point about warranty etc but if there's something that only a qualified professional can do, please let me know. I don't want to be silly about this.



Thanks again to everyone - boards is great for this!!!

K.Flyer

karlitob wrote: »

So, as it stands:
The cold water tank is on the joists just above it.

Is the Cold water tank in the Attic or in the Hot Press?
If it is in the Attic a Positive Head pump will be fine.
I would recommend a brass bodied pump either way.

karlitob wrote: »

Warwick Flange
- is this ok to continue using

Yes as long as it plumbed correctly.

karlitob wrote: »

15mm supply
- Am I right in saying all shower pumps have 15mm connectors?

No, Most have 22mm connections, usually the cheaper plastic units will have 15mm.

karlitob wrote: »

Shut off valve
- I presume its worthwhile fixing one

Absolutely.

karlitob wrote: »

Installation
- I reckon this is something I can do. Its not that I don't want to use a plumber - the cost of installation isn't high, I just want to try it myself. I understand the point about warranty etc but if there's something that only a qualified professional can do, please let me know. I don't want to be silly about this.

If you are familiar with and have some DIY plumbing and electrics experience it is something that you may be capable of doing.
However, sometimes valves don't close fully, seize fully open or fully closed and thats when the fun starts and you could end up with a lot of unwanted water very quickly.

karlitob

K.Flyer wrote: »

Is the Cold water tank in the Attic or in the Hot Press?
If it is in the Attic a Positive Head pump will be fine.
I would recommend a brass bodied pump either way.

- its in the attic.

K.Flyer wrote: »

No, Most have 22mm connections, usually the cheaper plastic units will have 15mm.

- i've just had a look at our tank. The supply from the expansion pipe to the shower pump is 15mm (i've and a read of the installation manual and they all say at minimum it should be 22mm supply). I didn't get on with my plumber but did he install this incorrectly when he put in our new cylinder?? Any ideas on how I connect 15mm to 22mm?


Thanks again

K.Flyer

Where does the pipe from the top of the Warix flange connect to? Because the pipe that connects directly to the pump should be taken from the top of the Warix flange not from the expansion.

karlitob

K.Flyer wrote: »

Where does the pipe from the top of the Warix flange connect to? Because the pipe that connects directly to the pump should be taken from the top of the Warix flange not from the expansion.

Hey KFlyer
The other pic I posted....the pipe coming out horizontally is the 15mm supply.

As it stands, there's 2 x 15mm inlet and 2 x 15mm outlets. I'm gonna buy a pump with 22mm connectors....does that mean I'll have to fit 15mm to 22mm compression fittings on all the 15mm pipes???

Thanks

https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/308031/310080.jpg

K.Flyer

karlitob wrote: »

Hey KFlyer
The other pic I posted....the pipe coming out horizontally is the 15mm supply.

Hmmm, I see what you mean!

What size and where does the cold supply come from?

karlitob wrote: »

...
As it stands, there's 2 x 15mm inlet and 2 x 15mm outlets. I'm gonna buy a pump with 22mm connectors....does that mean I'll have to fit 15mm to 22mm compression fittings on all the 15mm pipes???

Most likely, unless you want to change pipework and set it up properly.

spireland32

Get a plumber. .. you're out of your depth. Pipework needs to be change, a double pole spur with the correct amp fuse also needs to be in place in not so already. Hoses must not be over 30° of an angle. A mixing valve may need to be fitted if water 65° or above is liable to pass through it.

Fitted incorrectly voids your warranty. Fitted correctly it will last anywhere between 8-12 years

karlitob

spireland32 wrote: »

Get a plumber. .. you're out of your depth. Pipework needs to be change, a double pole spur with the correct amp fuse also needs to be in place in not so already. Hoses must not be over 30° of an angle. A mixing valve may need to be fitted if water 65° or above is liable to pass through it.

Fitted incorrectly voids your warranty. Fitted correctly it will last anywhere between 8-12 years

Double pole spur with amp already in situ.
Hoses are not over 30 deg of an angle.
A mixing valve is already in situ and theres a therm on the hot water cylinder which is currently set at 40 for the summer.

karlitob

K.Flyer wrote: »

Hmmm, I see what you mean!

What size and where does the cold supply come from?

Cold water from the cold water tank upstairs and is a 15mm also

Thanks for your advice