Best hangers for 15' gates

Tokyo

Hey lads,

I've come back home to do a bit of work around the homeplace, the old man hasn't had enough hours in the day for many years now, so I'm cutting back bushes, rebuilding walls, hanging gates and so on - stuff that's been neglected for the best part of 20 years now. Some of the gates have been widened now to 15" to allow for easier access, the problem is that the old hangers that would have been concreted into the pillar have rusted out for years now.

The plan was to use something like in the picture below, and bolt it to the face of the pillar with anchor bolts, but at the size (and weight) of the gates, I'm wary that they'll pull out of the concrete, if not immediately, over time.

So, anyone have any experience in using these with large gates? Or would I be better off drilling out the old hangar and concreting in a new pin???

wildefalcon

Drill through the pillar and plate the back of it. Even so it may be a big ask, especially if they are heavy galv gates.

Tokyo

Yep, they're the heavy galv jobs, must weigh about the same as myself. Not to mention the inevitable clod that's going to climb over it at some stage. Was thinking of making up a hangar with threaded bar, square plate at the front, through the pillar, square plate and nut to hold it in place. Is that what you mean?

Oldtree

I used these to hang a gate, drilled through concrete post and washers either side, allows for adjustment later should it be needed.

the base hinge was embedded in the concrete already.

blue5000

Best way to hang these is 8' length of 8x4 inch RSJ with bolt on hangers.

vanderbadger

kerry sell very handy gate posts, i think they are for M&G gates but i could be wrong on that, the post is round and dipped, the hangers are already on it and they fit the gates exactly, when the gate is closed its cannot be lifted out of hanger but when its opened back it can be making it very handy to fit or remove gate if needs be, sometimes i use sleepers to hang gates but these yokes are handier and should last forever or a fair long time at least

onyerbikepat

When you say 'pillar', what kind, concrete, Steel RSJ, railway girder?

wildefalcon

8 foot of 6 inch thick wall round tube, set in concrete, weld some rebar spars in the bit that sets on the concrete, ram some more rebar into the ground around and under the hole protruding into the hole.

It's all about leverage. 15 Foot is a BIG lever.

Tokyo

onyerbikepat wrote: »

When you say 'pillar', what kind, concrete, Steel RSJ, railway girder?

Sorry - should have clarified. Concrete shuttered pillars, been there longer than I've been alive. Don't want to pull them up if I don't have to, but having said that I'd prefer to do it once, and right, than to have to go back and do it again in six months time. Half arsed stopgaps are the reason the place is as run down as it is - not the old man's fault, he works a full time job on top of the farm - but something needs to change.

Oldtree

one of the gates near me has a metal brace around the pillar (old one) with a hanger welded to it, made to measure, about a 10 foot gate. would 2 x 7 1/2 gates be easier to hang?

Zr105

Have 14 and 15 ft gates hanging with similar hangers(home made version ) here in shed etc, used these lads
http://jiafengpearl.m.ec21.com/mobile/productDetail.jsp?productId=5003678&groupId=3047589

However thats into mass concrete walls, if its a concrete pillar it would depend on its width as if you drill to near edge it will more than likely crack.
Id go with the long eye bolt type like the lads above are suggesting if you can drill through the pillar enough.
The other option that we use a fair bit is 3 lengths of 50mm*12mm flat welded into a c shape tight around the pillar, a length of threaded bar across the open side then, can weld a plate onto one of the sides then to go out to the top of gate(bottoms are all in a pipe in concrete). They work well to be honest,

munkus

Fair play to you. Hate seeing gates fired up against a gap for years, looks terrible and is more work long term that putting in a pier. We have the same type of piers as you, concrete shuttered. If like us, you filled the pier with stone inside you may not be able to drill all the way through without hitting one.

you could chisel out a channel from the top and insert the hanging iron, six inches in would be fine. Mix the mortar strong when refilling.

agriman27

Do most of you on here prefer to use girders to hang gates instead of sleepers. Does anyone ever try to get galvanised girders would be a great job

Tokyo

munkus wrote: »

Fair play to you. Hate seeing gates fired up against a gap for years, looks terrible and is more work long term that putting in a pier. We have the same type of piers as you, concrete shuttered. If like us, you filled the pier with stone inside you may not be able to drill all the way through without hitting one.

you could chisel out a channel from the top and insert the hanging iron, six inches in would be fine. Mix the mortar strong when refilling.

Yep - if any of the pillars around here are anything to go by, they're the same makeup - a core of stones, all held together with concrete. I have the kango drill with a good long bit and a generator, so it'll either go through the pillar or split it in two - one or the other. Stone walls around here, so I find it easier to build a solid wall up to the pillar than I would building up to a galv pole or a length of girder.

onyerbikepat

I'd make up a square bracket as mentioned above with a seperate plate at the back and tighten in with bolts. Kinda like this;

Zr105

agriman27 wrote: »

Do most of you on here prefer to use girders to hang gates instead of sleepers. Does anyone ever try to get galvanised girders would be a great job

Would go girders over sleepers as the sleeper will eventually rot. Mostly block pillars here or else old round concrete pillars that were poured in place with the little mixer on tractor before my time any with them that have been widen have just had one side taken down and replaced with the Heavy precast concrete posts!

Tokyo

Oldtree wrote: »

one of the gates near me has a metal brace around the pillar (old one) with a hanger welded to it, made to measure, about a 10 foot gate. would 2 x 7 1/2 gates be easier to hang?

In one field maybe, but in the other it would be a much tidier job overall if there was one 15' gate that would just swing back against the wall.

A cow called Daisy

Be conscious of the fact that any of the brackets that are easy to put in place are also easy to remove should anyone think they nicer than the ones they have.
Has happened to relations.

Tokyo

A cow called Daisy wrote: »

Be conscious of the fact that any of the brackets that are easy to put in place are also easy to remove should anyone think they nicer than the ones they have.
Has happened to relations.

Has happened to ourselves too on more than one occasion. Gates, barbed wire, fencing posts, electric fence have all gone missing from land that's away from the house. Certain people of a travelling persuasion are always the scapegoats, but I reckon I wouldn't have to walk too far to find a shed with all of our stuff sitting in it...

monseiur

mike_ie wrote: »

Hey lads,

I've come back home to do a bit of work around the homeplace, the old man hasn't had enough hours in the day for many years now, so I'm cutting back bushes, rebuilding walls, hanging gates and so on - stuff that's been neglected for the best part of 20 years now. Some of the gates have been widened now to 15" to allow for easier access, the problem is that the old hangers that would have been concreted into the pillar have rusted out for years now.

The plan was to use something like in the picture below, and bolt it to the face of the pillar with anchor bolts, but at the size (and weight) of the gates, I'm wary that they'll pull out of the concrete, if not immediately, over time.

So, anyone have any experience in using these with large gates? Or would I be better off drilling out the old hangar and concreting in a new pin???

The hangar in your pic. should do the job but use something like the Hilti adhesive anchor system. You basically drill two holes say 25mm diamater and 175mm deep. You fill the holes over half way with the Hilti special adhesive, it's an epoxy acrylate resin, it comes in two parts, just add the hardener. (It comes with a dispencer etc.) Fit the two Hilti anchors bolts immediately using the hangar as a template, allow a few hours to harden. Ensure that the diamater of the anchor bolts match the bore of the hangar.
The reason for filling the hole to just over half way with the adhesive is that the displacement of the anchor bolt will fill the rest.
This method is used on bridges, docks, harbours etc.
It is not cheap but a pack should do 6 to 8 hangars. Just mix enough to do one hangar at a time as it hardens very quickly.

M.

99nsr125

monseiur wrote: »

The hangar in your pic. should do the job but use something like the Hilti adhesive anchor system. You basically drill two holes say 25mm diamater and 175mm deep. You fill the holes over half way with the Hilti special adhesive, it's an epoxy acrylate resin, it comes in two parts, just add the hardener. (It comes with a dispencer etc.) Fit the two Hilti anchors bolts immediately using the hangar as a template, allow a few hours to harden. Ensure that the diamater of the anchor bolts match the bore of the hangar.
The reason for filling the hole to just over half way with the adhesive is that the displacement of the anchor bolt will fill the rest.
This method is used on bridges, docks, harbours etc.
It is not cheap but a pack should do 6 to 8 hangars. Just mix enough to do one hangar at a time as it hardens very quickly.

M.

That's known as "chemset" around these parts, used to epoxy in rebar etc etc. Quite possibly the fastest and best solution, only problem is there's no disassembling afterwards Ever ! !

Upstream

onyerbikepat wrote: »

I'd make up a square bracket as mentioned above with a seperate plate at the back and tighten in with bolts. Kinda like this;

I'd be inclined to use one of these or a drill through eye on top and one of the OP's bolt in brackets on the bottom if the post was suitable. The bottom bolt wouldn't be under as much pressure if it wasn't swung too hard when opening, but the top would need the stronger fitting to take the strain.

Not sure how to deter theft, a spot of weld on each bolt when finished might slow them down a bit.

Good job anyway op, I'm sure your Dad appreciates the help.

Tokyo

Thanks for all the feedback - much appreciated. Spent the day setting foundations for some of the pillars that need replacing - lengths of 1" rebar hammered into the ground first, so they're not going to budge. Have a good supply of thick walled 9" galv piping that's going to be put to good use as piers where I won't be building concrete pillars.

wildefalcon

That'd be a fine job, the tube is the best for pillars - the RSJ can distort at the top, if it isn't braced.

The rebar in the ground is a great way to counter the lever of the gate - also weld some to the bottom of pipe, like a "T", and you'll double the strength, spray the weld with cold galv spray and you'll have no bother.


Do put a cap on the top of pipe - or the frost will split the pipe full of water (which reminds me - I must to the same - I used a scaffold pole for a little gate and must finish the job off!

A spot of weld on the threads of the hinge will slow the more simple thieves, but with battery grinders, and plasma disks, all you can do to stop the feckers is to weld your phone number onto the top of the gate.

Sami23

Have a gate to hang with a 6x3 rsj. Just wondering would it matter which side I hang the gate off as it would be easier build the stone wall against the web of the rsj if ya know what I mean. I know it prob be stronger hung in line with rsj but would I get away doing it the other way

Sami23

Sami23 wrote: »

Have a gate to hang with a 6x3 rsj. Just wondering would it matter which side I hang the gate off as it would be easier build the stone wall against the web of the rsj if ya know what I mean. I know it prob be stronger hung in line with rsj but would I get away doing it the other way

Anyone :rolleyes:

gazahayes

Sami23 wrote: »

Anyone :rolleyes:

If your using concrete in the stone walls weld a few bits of rebar and concrete into stone wall. Otherwise hang other way.

Sami23

gazahayes wrote: »

If your using concrete in the stone walls weld a few bits of rebar and concrete into stone wall. Otherwise hang other way.

No concrete so do ya mean hang it in line ?

Tokyo

Sami23 wrote: »

No concrete so do ya mean hang it in line ?

For something like a gate, strength shouldn't be an issue no matter what way you turn the girder. The only possible issue would be that the girder gate hangers will have to be mounted on the front or back of the I-beam and will only swing one way. If you have the I-beam orientated normally, the gate will be able to swing in and out of the field.

Tokyo

Decided in the end for the rest of the farm, I wasn't happy with any of the off the shelf solutions, so I decided to make my own. 5" galvanised steel tubing, homemade hangers welded up and welded on.



Nice little production line going at the moment. Also taken down all the bent or buckled gates, and welding in new sections where necessary. If you look carefully you can probably spot the replacement section. Cold galv spray and zinc oxide, and they'll probably outlast me.

renandstimpy

And I

blue5000 wrote: »

Best way to hang these is 8' length of 8x4 inch RSJ with bolt on hangers.

if gate ever drops a bit you can always lift it

moy83

Whats that stimpy ? :P

renandstimpy

moy83 wrote: »

Whats that stimpy ? :P

:-):-) itll teach me to read how many pages there is first before commenting .. didnt see he had the project near done :-):-) thought he was goingusing rsjs

moy83

And you're off again :-)

GrandSoftDay

vanderbadger wrote: »

kerry sell very handy gate posts, i think they are for M&G gates but i could be wrong on that, the post is round and dipped, the hangers are already on it and they fit the gates exactly, when the gate is closed its cannot be lifted out of hanger but when its opened back it can be making it very handy to fit or remove gate if needs be, sometimes i use sleepers to hang gates but these yokes are handier and should last forever or a fair long time at least

Do you remember how much those posts were vander? Have a 16ft heavy duty gate and 2 10fts to hang and I'd rather them than the sleepers aswell. Got the gates in Dans and they are different to the ones Kerry do so not sure if they will fit those pillars either.

vanderbadger

GrandSoftDay wrote: »

Do you remember how much those posts were vander? Have a 16ft heavy duty gate and 2 10fts to hang and I'd rather them than the sleepers aswell. Got the gates in Dans and they are different to the ones Kerry do so not sure if they will fit those pillars either.

i think they are around 70 or 80 euros but will check a docket at home later, i have some older gates hanging off them and they work out so you are probably ok, if you want to be sure now you can try bring down a gate some evening and we can try it off one of them

GrandSoftDay

vanderbadger wrote: »

i think they are around 70 or 80 euros but will check a docket at home later, i have some older gates hanging off them and they work out so you are probably ok, if you want to be sure now you can try bring down a gate some evening and we can try it off one of them

I haven't a notion of lifting or dragging them That big gate is shocking heavy. I have them thrown in the yard on an out farm with 2 years so it's time to be hanging them now! Need to the makings of a crush for it aswell now while I'm at it. I'll measure them the next day I'm inside, I think one of the neighbours used them posts as well so I'll measure off them.

vanderbadger

GrandSoftDay wrote: »

I haven't a notion of lifting or dragging them That big gate is shocking heavy. I have them thrown in the yard on an out farm with 2 years so it's time to be hanging them now! Need to the makings of a crush for it aswell now while I'm at it. I'll measure them the next day I'm inside, I think one of the neighbours used them posts as well so I'll measure off them.

they are a good job in fairness, you can whip your gate on and off them, they also do a closing post version

GrandSoftDay

vanderbadger wrote: »

they are a good job in fairness, you can whip your gate on and off them, they also do a closing post version

They are dear enough at that price is the only thing I suppose. Is the closing lost the one that leaves about 2ft vertically for the closing pin to go into?

vanderbadger

GrandSoftDay wrote: »

They are dear enough at that price is the only thing I suppose. Is the closing lost the one that leaves about 2ft vertically for the closing pin to go into?

ya there is a long section attached to the post that the gate closing pin will fit into, so its easy to line it up as opposed to one particular hole that might be difficult to line up