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Fitting a towbar to a Mazda 6

  • 27-05-2014 9:42am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,169 ✭✭✭


    I have a 04 Mazda 6 and a towbar to fit it. Has anyone put a towbar on themselves before? The local mechanic is charging at least €100 which I'm not willing to pay. Any tips on how to fit one? Is it possible without a ramp?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Rob2593 wrote: »
    I have a 04 Mazda 6 and a towbar to fit it. Has anyone put a towbar on themselves before? The local mechanic is charging at least €100 which I'm not willing to pay. Any tips on how to fit one? Is it possible without a ramp?

    I fitted my own tow bar to my car and if you can use a spanner you can do it. I also supplied it myself, having bought in online from a UK supplier and it was half the price of an equivalent Irish supplier, even after paying postage! It came with the socket, wiring and comprehensive instructions.

    A ramp or hoist would make life simpler, but if you can get the back of the car up on axle stands, with the wheels supported also etc. etc. you should be fine. An extra pair of hands wouldn't go astray as they are heavy bu**ers and depending on your particular car, the rear bumper may or may not have to be removed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,169 ✭✭✭Rob2593


    Did you have to take the exhaust down or anything? It seems the exhaust is in the way of the bar, think it needs to go behind it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    I don't know what the set up with your car is, but I didn't have to remove either exhaust boxes (I have one on each side). My tow bar came in an angle iron "Frame" like a soccer goal post, with holes pre drilled to bolt through existing holes in the chassis/subframe/ rails or whatever you call them. Then the actual tow "ball" bolted onto this frame. If the tow bar is made specifically for your car, then it should be a similar arrangement, although you may have to undo the rubber exhaust hangers, just to give you a bit of room to get the bolts through, depending where your box is. Take a moment also to consider which direction it's best to put the bolts through. Ask me how I know!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭VeVeX


    I'd snap his hand off at €100.

    http://www.witter-towbars.co.uk/uMedia/FittingInstructions/MZ37A.pdf

    1. Remove bumper (tip screw, 2 plastic plugs at wheel arch, 2 plastic plugs along lower edge, 1 screw and 1 plastic plug
    under each light cluster. Pull out sides and pull backwards (edge fixings snap out), remove bumper beam (replace
    original bolts).
    2. Cut open chassis ends as shown below, insert Sidearms (D) and (E) into openings. Locate the existing holes and
    dimples for Bolts (J) and (K) inside boot. Drill out dimples and existing holes (top surface only) to allow Bushes (G) and
    (H) to be inserted from above.
    3. Lower exhaust and loosely attach Sidearms (D) and (E) to chassis using Bolts (J) and (K), Bushes (H) and (G) and
    Spreader Plates (F) fitted as shown below. Note: Insert Bolts from below to prevent exhaust knock.
    4. Loosely attach Cross Bar (A) to Sidearms (D) and (E) using Bolts (L) with Flat Washers.
    5. Fully tighten all bolts ensuring Crossbar (A) remains square and as close to rear panel as possible.
    6. Cut bumper as shown below. Refit bumper. Fit Bolt Caps (BC) to cover threads of Bolts (J) and (K). Secure exhaust.

    Listed at 150 minutes + Electrics


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,169 ✭✭✭Rob2593


    Brilliant lads, thanks so much for the info. Gonna' give it a go and I'll let you know how I get on! Thanks again! :)


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