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chainsaw getting blunt

  • 10-05-2014 5:46pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 875 ✭✭✭


    now the thing is about the chain saw is that I might get a big burst of using it for a few days and might not use it again for 6 months so its hard to remember of what happened it.


    anyway I got the blade sharpened a few weeks ago and when I got it back it was going excellent and cutting through timber very fast. I didn't cut a hole pile since but it seems to be gone blunt out again. I don't think I hit anything such as a stone etc.


    I notice the last log I cut was only about 3-4 inchs thick but it turned the wood black at the end from cutting.


    now I am also wondering to myself is the oil part working for the chain. should the oil just be dripping onto the chain when its going around? it never seems to take much oil worth talking about compared to a neighbours I was working with once who was filling the chain oil every time with the petrol.


    is there a way to check is the oil coming out?
    could the blade be gone and need replacing (would that cause the blade to get blunt fast?)


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,475 ✭✭✭phelixoflaherty


    You should give the blade a rub of the file every fill of the tank


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,921 ✭✭✭onyerbikepat


    You should be using about one full fill of chain oil to every fill of petrol. What kind of oil are you using. If it is too thick, it would come out too slow. The hole where it comes out might be blocked too.
    If you rev the saw and hold it a few inches from a cut face of timber, you should see the oil spraying out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    hold the point of the bar a couple of inches from a white surface and rev the engine. you should see clearly skites of oil. usually use one tank of oil to two fills of petrol. Better saws, you can adjust the oil pump output. don't do like me, and hold the bar to the side of the freezer in the garage. cut a gouge out of the freezer..........


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 875 ✭✭✭f140


    chainsaw oil is what im using. I will try the timber trick.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    f140 wrote: »
    chainsaw oil is what im using. I will try the timber trick.

    Some chainsaw oil is thicker than others, and if you are leaving it in for long periods of time without using it it can clog the oil pump, I tend to use a thinner chain oil to prevent this from happening, also some smaller saws don't cope well with the thick stuff either, a pump replacement from memory costs in the region of €50.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭moy83


    Id say you need more oil alright .

    A mate of mine asked me to look at his saw the last day . Because it was going blunt aswell , he bought it about a year ago and did a few jobs now and then . I asked him was it getting oil . No it only takes 2stroke he said !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,109 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    was the chain bumper filed down when you got it sharpened? Was it black as in burnt black, from friction?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    moy83 wrote: »
    Id say you need more oil alright .

    A mate of mine asked me to look at his saw the last day . Because it was going blunt aswell , he bought it about a year ago and did a few jobs now and then . I asked him was it getting oil . No it only takes 2stroke he said !

    The op says there is oil in the reservoir it just isn't using the stuff.

    Most chainsaws are designed to run out of fuel before the chain oil runs out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,109 ✭✭✭Oldtree


    moy83 wrote: »
    Id say you need more oil alright .

    A mate of mine asked me to look at his saw the last day . Because it was going blunt aswell , he bought it about a year ago and did a few jobs now and then . I asked him was it getting oil . No it only takes 2stroke he said !
    :D:D:D pmsl


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 875 ✭✭✭f140


    Oldtree wrote: »
    was the chain bumper filed down when you got it sharpened? Was it black as in burnt black, from friction?

    I always send it to the dealer to get it sharpened to have it done right. I just told him sharpen it so I don't know what he did.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 875 ✭✭✭f140


    just tried it there on the concrete flat out for two minutes. no oil came out and the blade looks fairly dry as well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    f140 wrote: »
    I always send it to the dealer to get it sharpened to have it done right. I just told him sharpen it so I don't know what he did.

    http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/522458059/File_Guide_saw_guide_chainsaw_file_guide.jpg

    get youreslf one of these, they can be got on ebay for about 20quid normally,

    the chain will only really keep its real sharp edge for a couple of tanks and then when it starts to blunt it goes blunt really quick,

    as to the oil depending on the saw normally if you turn them over on there side theres a little hole on the bottom under the oil tank with a flat screw inside, therell be a litle symbol beside it that shows which way is more oil and which is less.
    you want it so that theres a small bit spraying off the end of bar when you rev it up idle in front of a log


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭moy83


    f140 wrote: »
    just tried it there on the concrete flat out for two minutes. no oil came out and the blade looks fairly dry as well.

    There should be a screw to let out more oil on the chainsaw , I think its usually in around the back of the bar


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,980 ✭✭✭Genghis Cant


    f140 wrote: »
    just tried it there on the concrete flat out for two minutes. no oil came out and the blade looks fairly dry as well.

    Take off the bar and clean out the grooves on the saw where the bar sits. Clean out the two eyelets on the bar and clean the groove in which the chain runs around the bar. While you're at it grease the bearing on the bar tip if there's an access point.
    Saw dust in some of the above can clog up the oil.
    You sometimes see oil exiting the tank but it's final route blocked to the bar so it'll drip slowly off the engine instead of along the bar.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭moy83


    Oldtree wrote: »
    :D:D:D pmsl

    He was deadly serious on the phone telling me it didnt take chain oil , when I went back he was trying to save face telling me the lad he bought it off told him it didnt need it :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,980 ✭✭✭Genghis Cant


    I was cutting timber one time in 2002, in fact it was in Sept , about the 8th or 9th I'd say. A lad arrived carrying a saw. I never met him before nor since. He tells me he got the saw sharpend but its not cutting. I took it off him to take a look and the problem was easy to spot. The chain was on backwards!
    Funny things happen when you're out an about!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,381 ✭✭✭893bet


    Chain too tight?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    f140 wrote: »
    I always send it to the dealer to get it sharpened to have it done right. I just told him sharpen it so I don't know what he did.

    If you are cutting any bit of timber you need to be able to sharpen yourself. Take the chainsaw into any chainsaw shop tell them you want a file and ask the angle as well. Get a raker guide and then watch below.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rvq3GS1szKU


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