galvanising and fertiliser

satstheway

Looking for a new spreader and there are a couple of galvanized ones. As far I I am concerned fertiliser will destroy galvanised items so how does this work?
I spilt fert on a slurry lid one time and overnight it removed the Galv of the part of the lid.

Does anyone have a galvanized spreader to inform me?

Muckit

I think powder coated finish is as good as any.

You need to give them all a good cleaning regardless! :-)

I was looking at galvanised frame ones but went for a plastic hopper with powder coated frame.

Rovi

Good galvanising should be an excellent long lasting finish, but I'd still be washing down a fertilizer spreader after every use.
The damp in the air is enough to dissolve fertilizer into a highly corrosive liquid/sludge which will make its way through pretty much any finish given enough time.

I remain unconvinced about powder coating.
Perhaps the examples I've seen haven't been properly done, but any sort of a nick or damage appears to let corrosion run underneath the coating and it lifts off in sheets in fairly short order.

satstheway

We got seat ends powder coated last year as cast could be galvanised it was supposed to be great

satstheway

I had a powder coated sower before it's 11 now not too bad.
I put waxoil on it the first day and again since great job but fert sticks to it .
It is washed after each use.

satstheway

Seat ends after about 9 mts

onyerbikepat

I always wash, let dry and then a coat of burned engine oil. The only way to stop them rusting. Wear gloves with the oil as that stuff is carcinogenic.

Muckit

Gold detailing looks class! :-)

Feck that's a pity. Nice seat ends btw. Fixed up a seat like that for someone before but I just used black hammerrite and oak timbers. Did a cool outdoor rocking chair also with similar cast iron ends. Will try dig out photos 2mor.

Zr105

As far as i know there is actually something about fertilizer reacting with zinc(galvanising) which causes it to deteriorate

There are the likes of the cavallo(sp?) spreaders which have a stainless hopper on them, not sure how they'd pan out but in fairness amazone, bogballe and sulky (probably other makes to) all use a stainless insert of some form in the bottom of the hoppers now, be it a pressed hopper bottom(bogballe) or just a plate around the shaft for the agitator(amazone) so it mustn't react.

Biggest problem we see with the spreader here is that its around the shutters and parts that move where the rubbing and grinding of fertilizer takes away the coating no matter what type it is and then the rusting starts down there and takes in.

satstheway

Zr105 wrote: »

As far as i know there is actually something about fertilizer reacting with zinc(galvanising) which causes it to deteriorate

There are the likes of the cavallo(sp?) spreaders which have a stainless hopper on them, not sure how they'd pan out but in fairness amazone, bogballe and sulky (probably other makes to) all use a stainless insert of some form in the bottom of the hoppers now, be it a pressed hopper bottom(bogballe) or just a plate around the shaft for the agitator(amazone) so it mustn't react.

Biggest problem we see with the spreader here is that its around the shutters and parts that move where the rubbing and grinding of fertilizer takes away the coating no matter what type it is and then the rusting starts down there and takes in.

Don't think there are any stainless steel quad sowers.
I do see a galvanized sower which is painted on top. So no rust from underneath and paint to wash off easily. All it needs now is a coat of waxoil. I stripped my new quad the day I got her and sprayed her all metal and engine.

allbuiz

I have a bogballe (KRM) spreader for the last three years. Imported from mainland UK. No rust yet! (Touch wood) Just give it a really good wash after use. The engine oil would be good but ya would need to get it for free in my opinion.

Muckit

satstheway wrote: »

Don't think there are any stainless steel quad sowers.
I do see a galvanized sower which is painted on top. So no rust from underneath and paint to wash off easily. All it needs now is a coat of waxoil. I stripped my new quad the day I got her and sprayed her all metal and engine.

When you say you waxoiled it, did you spray it on or inside the metalwork?

tabby aspreme

I have the spreader dismantled to repair the shut off plate and was thinking of painting it when its apart, what would be the best treatment for the rust spots before painting

satstheway

Muckit wrote: »

When you say you waxoiled it, did you spray it on or inside the metalwork?

On the metalwork. I used to work at sea and they used it on engines and the like. Heat it up and spray on a good hot day and leave it to dry. It dries like candle wax after a few days. Always ment to do inside the rack on the quad through the couple of open tubes. You can get clear waxoil as well as black

wetdarknight2

onyerbikepat wrote: »

I always wash, let dry and then a coat of burned engine oil. The only way to stop them rusting. Wear gloves with the oil as that stuff is carcinogenic.

carcinogenic? Really? Why would burned oil be carcinogenic if other oil is not?

satstheway

tabby aspreme wrote: »

I have the spreader dismantled to repair the shut off plate and was thinking of painting it when its apart, what would be the best treatment for the rust spots before painting

As someone said the shut off plate will scrap and rub paint off anyway. If ur on about the whole machine I would prob either get it blasted and professional spray or get it powder coated well. At least better than my seat ends. Problem with paint and plastic coat alike is that a scrap or score or small dint soon becomes a Hugh patch of rust.

Oldtree

wetdarknight2 wrote: »

carcinogenic? Really? Why would burned oil be carcinogenic if other oil is not?

[MOD]

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has warned people that this is dangerous to burn waste engine oil.

Waste oil is hazardous as it contains a large number of contaminants, some of which are known to be carcinogenic, and it must be either recycled in EPA licensed facilities or destroyed by burning at very high temperatures.

Apart from harming human health burning waste oils can also damage the environment.

It is an offence under the Waste Management Act to burn waste oil without a Waste Licence. The burning of waste oil falls under the scope of the European Waste Incineration Directive.

[/MOD]

Zr105

I think when the lads are saying burned oil there meaning used engine oil rather than advocating sticking a match to it,

As to why its carcinogenic, as the oil does its job lubricating the engine it picks up a lot of carbon and other contaminants from the block from the combustion cycle and it is these that make it carcinogenic.


But i do agree it should be disposed of properly!!

Oldtree

Zr105 wrote: »

I think when the lads are saying burned oil there meaning used engine oil rather than advocating sticking a match to it,

As to why its carcinogenic, as the oil does its job lubricating the engine it picks up a lot of carbon and other contaminants from the block from the combustion cycle and it is these that make it carcinogenic.


But i do agree it should be disposed of properly!!

Thank you for clearing that up. I wood ask for patience while I learn the new language

Had the hydraulic pipe bust at the front end of the Ford 3600 the other week right in the nose where the pipe is welded into the side of the nose. Couldn't put a new plastic pipe through there as it was next to the radiator so I ran a bright blue hose (the only right sized replacement I could get) around the outside and in the front. The tractor now has a smile (don't laugh). Managed to catch most of the oil and bottle it, but it smelt foul. Didn't have to bleed the system thank goodness.

Nekarsulm

Oldtree wrote: »

Thank you for clearing that up. I wood ask for patience while I learn the new language

Had the hydraulic pipe bust at the front end of the Ford 3600 the other week right in the nose where the pipe is welded into the side of the nose. Couldn't put a new plastic pipe through there as it was next to the radiator so I ran a bright blue hose (the only right sized replacement I could get) around the outside and in the front. The tractor now has a smile (don't laugh). Managed to catch most of the oil and bottle it, but it smelt foul. Didn't have to bleed the system thank goodness.

Picture, or we don't believe you!

Zr105

Oldtree wrote: »

Thank you for clearing that up. I wood ask for patience while I learn the new language

Had the hydraulic pipe bust at the front end of the Ford 3600 the other week right in the nose where the pipe is welded into the side of the nose. Couldn't put a new plastic pipe through there as it was next to the radiator so I ran a bright blue hose (the only right sized replacement I could get) around the outside and in the front. The tractor now has a smile (don't laugh). Managed to catch most of the oil and bottle it, but it smelt foul. Didn't have to bleed the system thank goodness.

Your gona have to put up a pic of that for us

Oldtree

I know I'm gona regret this but ok I'll bite. its a '77 3600. Is in a sh1t state but the engine is good. I fix things as they break .
An initial problem was it would stop every 6 miles or so. A quick diesel blowback and bleed would do the job but was a pain in the a.
After much investigation and taking bits apart I found a tiny filter inside the tank that would block up on clean diesel.
The solution, rip the thing out and let the main filter take care of things. Works like a charm.
Like the hydraulic pipe being welded into the nose this thing is full of flaws. replaced the pipe from the tank too.
Next the alternator started smoking so put in a new one.
Then the wiring started smoking, couple of crossed wires that had the plastic sheath worn away
so rewrapped them but need to replace them really.
I don't really drive it on the road as its not got brakes that work properly but use it mainly for my pto logsplitter.

Nekarsulm

Oldtree wrote: »

Next the alternator started smoking so put in a new one.
Then the wiring started smoking, couple of crossed wires that had the plastic sheath worn away
so rewrapped them but need to replace them really.


Have you got it insured for TP, F&T?

sounds like an insurance "job" in the making!

Oldtree

No breaks no insurance no tax, no on the road

Reggie.

Oldtree wrote: »

No breaks no insurance no tax, no on the road

Sure sign of a "ran off down the hill" jobbie

Oldtree

PS I have reported myself for going way off thread so no need to bother:P

Reggie.

Oldtree wrote: »

PS I have reported myself for going way off thread so no need to bother:P

Ha that's like a guard saying that he cautioned himself for speeding....:D but nice try

Nekarsulm

Probably best to report it stolen.........

Here is a picture of your tractor, to help you with your claim...........

Zr105

Oldtree wrote: »

I know I'm gona regret this but ok I'll bite. its a '77 3600. Is in a sh1t state but the engine is good. I fix things as they break .
An initial problem was it would stop every 6 miles or so. A quick diesel blowback and bleed would do the job but was a pain in the a.
After much investigation and taking bits apart I found a tiny filter inside the tank that would block up on clean diesel.
The solution, rip the thing out and let the main filter take care of things. Works like a charm.
Like the hydraulic pipe being welded into the nose this thing is full of flaws. replaced the pipe from the tank too.
Next the alternator started smoking so put in a new one.
Then the wiring started smoking, couple of crossed wires that had the plastic sheath worn away
so rewrapped them but need to replace them really.
I don't really drive it on the road as its not got brakes that work properly but use it mainly for my pto logsplitter.

Hahaha looks more like its wearing a nose ring

Oldtree

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Probably best to report it stolen.........

Here is a picture of your tractor, to help you with your claim...........

Probably what it should look like the poor thing

Reggie.

Oldtree wrote: »

Probably what it should look like the poor thing

Would ya not give the poor bugger a wash to get the green mould off it

Oldtree

Reggie. wrote: »

Would ya not give the poor bugger a wash to get the green mould off it

I think the moss is doing more good than harm, an extra protective layer I love the organic look no one going to "borrow" it lol

f140

Oldtree wrote: »

I think the moss is doing more good than harm, an extra protective layer I love the organic look no one going to "borrow" it lol

did you treat her to new front rims at some stage?

Oldtree

f140 wrote: »

did you treat her to new front rims at some stage?

She didn't come with anything new, so doubt she misses them, umong other things The doors have just fallen off so no need for air con:)

Reggie.

Oldtree wrote: »

She didn't come with anything new, so doubt she misses them, umong other things The doors have just fallen off so no need for air con:)

What about a heater

Oldtree

Reggie. wrote: »

What about a heater

Have piped the exhaust into the cab so that should do

Reggie.

Oldtree wrote: »

Have piped the exhaust into the cab so that should do

Ah suicide method.....risky

Oldtree

Felt I should say that was a joke before I get reported to the H&S

The first time I started the 3600 I got covered is sh1t as there was no cover on top of the exhaust to stop water going in and it had been sitting around for a while. Job no 1, apply Exhaust weather cover cap :rolleyes:
http://www.tractorpartsinc.com/ford_tractor_exhaust_weather_caps_165_ctg.htm

Reggie.

Oldtree wrote: »

Felt I should say that was a joke before I get reported to the H&S

The first time I started the 3600 I got covered is sh1t as there was no cover on top of the exhaust to stop water going in and it had been sitting around for a while. Job no 1, apply Exhaust weather cover cap :rolleyes:
http://www.tractorpartsinc.com/ford_tractor_exhaust_weather_caps_165_ctg.htm

Remember I started a 135 one time with a can on the exhaust that I forgot to remove. Off it flew and I thought it was gone till it fell back to earth via my head. It bloody hurt that did

Zr105

said id come back to this, was spreading a bit of fert saturday and there was a galv meal trough in corner of the feild, i obviously didnt get the shutter off in time as when i went to trough on sunday there were a few bits in it. they had just barely began to dissolve and when i wiped them out of it with a hand full of grass you could straight away see where they had been you could see the galv had been removed from under the grains

satstheway

Zr105 wrote: »

said id come back to this, was spreading a bit of fert saturday and there was a galv meal trough in corner of the feild, i obviously didnt get the shutter off in time as when i went to trough on sunday there were a few bits in it. they had just barely began to dissolve and when i wiped them out of it with a hand full of grass you could straight away see where they had been you could see the galv had been removed from under the grains

This is what worries me but I am assured that if washed after use and not left overnight that this will not happen. I have a Galv sower ordered so I will soon know.

restive

I got a cavallo spreader about 5,years ago. I was told when I got it that the hopper would rust but the rest of it wouldn't. The under part of it has now started to rust. I gave €1,400 for it new. It can hold 500kg of 18-6-12.
I always wash it after use.

hopeso

restive wrote: »

I got a cavallo spreader about 5,years ago. I was told when I got it that the hopper would rust but the rest of it wouldn't. The under part of it has now started to rust. I gave €1,400 for it new. It can hold 500kg of 18-6-12.
I always wash it after use.

Has it the stainless steel hopper? I don't see why it would rust. I have one here since 2001, and the hopper is still like new.....

restive

The hopper is good. It is the frame underneath that has started to rust.

hopeso

restive wrote: »

The hopper is good. It is the frame underneath that has started to rust.

Sorry, I meant I don’t understand why someone told you it would rust.....

restive

hopeso wrote: »

Sorry, I meant I don’t understand why someone told you it would rust.....

They guy I bought it from said the under carriage would not rust but he said the hopper was not rust proof.