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Separate Oven and Hob Connection

  • 29-04-2014 10:17pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4


    hi
    wondering if someone could help me with a few questions.
    I have recently removed an old combined oven and hob and i am looking to replace with a separate oven and hob, and i have some questions over the wiring.

    Currently there is a single 6mm cable running from a cooker switch which is fed from the Consumer Unit (32A)

    the oven is 1905w and the hob is 5700w and so assume the 32 A would cover this as long as the wire is 6mm.

    The installation manual for the oven mentions putting in a fused spur from the cooker switch using a 1,5mm+ cable.

    But i have been informed that it might work just as well to feed a 6mm cable from the cooker switch into a cooker connection unit and feed 2 x 6 out to the oven and hob separately.

    Does anyone have suggestions on whether this is good way to do this or if i should follow the fused spur route?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,420 ✭✭✭.G.


    Yes you can do what you have been told.The issue will be whether the connections on the oven are big enough to accommodate 6sq cable.I've seen this alot lately and they usually aren't. What I do in that situation is feed a 6sq cable from the cooker connection point to the hob and feed another 6sq from the cooker connection point to a 13a fused spur outlet. You can then wire the oven back to the spur with the 1.5.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    superg wrote: »
    Yes you can do what you have been told.The issue will be whether the connections on the oven are big enough to accommodate 6sq cable.I've seen this alot lately and they usually aren't. What I do in that situation is feed a 6sq cable from the cooker connection point to the hob and feed another 6sq from the cooker connection point to a 13a fused spur outlet. You can then wire the oven back to the spur with the 1.5.

    yes
    that's that's prob the way I would do it
    to comply with manufacturer instructions
    would you fit the spur behind the oven..do the rules allow that


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 Landog69


    thanks superg,
    think the spurred route is the better option, the issue i have is that i dont have space to feed a 2nd 6mm from the cooker connection point. So what i was thinking was using the existing 6mm from the cooker connection point, then installing a junction box with a 13A spurred off this, i would then connect the spur to the oven with a 1,5mm-2,5mm and connect the hob directly to the cooker connection point.

    Does this work as well?

    Any suggestion on the best way to connect at in this way?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,641 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Landog69 wrote: »
    thanks superg,
    think the spurred route is the better option

    Agreed.
    the issue i have is that i dont have space to feed a 2nd 6mm from the cooker connection point.

    Change the cooker connection point for one with larger terminals or you could feed 2 6 sq. cables from the load side of the cooker switch.
    You may have to change the cooker switch for one with larger terminals (MK for example).
    So what i was thinking was using the existing 6mm from the cooker connection point, then installing a junction box with a 13A spurred off this

    This would not be as good.
    It is best to have the minimum amount of junctions on any circuit in particular circuits with larger loads such as this.
    Remember every junction is a potential source of failure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,420 ✭✭✭.G.


    Yes agree with 2011,get a better cooker connection point. All the ones i've seen have ample room for 3 6sq cables(1 in,2 out).


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 Landog69


    Thanks everyone.

    Also, would it be ok to downgrade the 6mm to 4mm on the 32A as the outlet on from the cooker switch box feeding behind the dry wall is relatively tight as well and might struggle with 2 x 6mm cables. I heard that this would be sufficient but prefer to be on the cautious side of this.

    This would be an easier (but maybe not safer) than replacing the cooker switch


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