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99 BMW 318 Key disaster

  • 28-04-2014 6:44pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭


    Hi all, accidentally and really stupidly ran a lawnmower over my car keys this evening. Pic attached. I can't get into my car now as the central locking is ****ed obviously due to the microchip been broken, and if I put the key in manually it won't work either. I think this is due to small gashes on the key (possibly hard to see on the pic). What's the next step? I know a place in stephens green quoted me €50 before or something like that, but he was asking if I had an immobiliser and I wasn't sure if I did.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,302 ✭✭✭Supergurrier


    Forget the key.

    Your Tesco membership card, noooooooo :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    Forget the key.

    Your Tesco membership card, noooooooo :(

    Ha ha I know, irreplaceable!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 874 ✭✭✭Gosub


    Any nicks on the key won't be a problem unless they are stopping the key entering the keyway. The groove on the key is what does all the work.

    If the key won't go in to the keyway, use a file to smooth off any spikes on the key. You should be able to use the key manually. IIRC the transponder is passive and unless the chip has been physically destroyed, it should still be recognised by the car. Open to correction on this though.

    Good luck.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    Gosub wrote: »
    Any nicks on the key won't be a problem unless they are stopping the key entering the keyway. The groove on the key is what does all the work.

    If the key won't go in to the keyway, use a file to smooth off any spikes on the key. You should be able to use the key manually. IIRC the transponder is passive and unless the chip has been physically destroyed, it should still be recognised by the car. Open to correction on this though.

    Good luck.

    The key goes in actually manually on the drivers side, and turns to the left but nothing happens. Would this be because of an immobilizer?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 874 ✭✭✭Gosub


    niallo24 wrote: »
    The key goes in actually manually on the drivers side, and turns to the left but nothing happens. Would this be because of an immobilizer?
    No, the immobiliser only stops the engine starting. Does the key open any other lock. Boot maybe? It's odd that it turns the lock barrel but won't unlock it.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    Gosub wrote: »
    No, the immobiliser only stops the engine starting. Does the key open any other lock. Boot maybe? It's odd that it turns the lock barrel but won't unlock it.

    Actually apologies the key is now getting me into the car, but setting the alarm off every time. The engine won't start though...which I presume is the immobiliser? What's the next step, I need a replacement fob to bypass that?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,991 ✭✭✭McCrack


    Did you try turning the key the other way?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭emeldc


    Is the battery still attached to the board. I'd say that might still work. You can buy the cases on ebay for a few quid and use the inside bits inc the blade from your old one. Is it an E36 or E46.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    Is the battery still attached to the board. I'd say that might still work. You can buy the cases on ebay for a few quid and use the inside bits inc the blade from your old one. Is it an E36 or E46.

    Sorry not that technically savvy when it comes to cars! Do you mean the main car battery? Yeah thats still working, whenever I open the car door the battery goes off and I can't start the engine. I presume the engine not starting is because of the immobilizer though?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    Sorry not that technically savvy when it comes to cars! Do you mean the main car battery? Yeah thats still working, whenever I open the car door the battery goes off and I can't start the engine. I presume the engine not starting is because of the immobilizer though?

    No, there should be a little watch type battery on the circuit board in the key fob.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    No, there should be a little watch type battery on the circuit board in the key fob.

    Oh right sorry! Yeah doesn't look like the battery is attached to the board unfortunately..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    Oh right sorry! Yeah doesn't look like the battery is attached to the board unfortunately..

    You can buy the little batteries in any good hardware. Bring the board with you. Once you have it fitted and with you in the car the engine should start. You might even be able to tape it all back together until you get a new case.
    That is unless the board is damaged, in which case you're snookered. A new one from BMW is about €130 last time I checked..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    You can buy the little batteries in any good hardware. Bring the board with you. Once you have it fitted and with you in the car the engine should start. You might even be able to tape it all back together until you get a new case.
    That is unless the board is damaged, in which case you're snookered. A new one from BMW is about €130 last time I checked..

    Cheers yeah, will try the first option but have a feeling the board is fried, although it looks intact. Not really sure where the battery attaches though as there doesn't seem an obvious place.

    So basically even though my key works in both the driver door, and still goes into the ignition its not starting the car because the fob isn't attached?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    Cheers yeah, will try the first option but have a feeling the board is fried, although it looks intact. Not really sure where the battery attaches though as there doesn't seem an obvious place.

    So basically even though my key works in both the driver door, and still goes into the ignition its not starting the car because the fob isn't attached?

    It won't start because the immobiliser isn't getting a signal from the fob because there is no power from it. Can you put up a pic of the other side of the board.

    Also, opening the door manually with the key won't turn the alarm or immobiliser off. You need to do that with the button on the key. So we're back to the little battery again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    It won't start because the immobiliser isn't getting a signal from the fob because there is no power from it. Can you put up a pic of the other side of the board.

    Also, opening the door manually with the key won't turn the alarm or immobiliser off. You need to do that with the button on the key. So we're back to the little battery again.

    Ok gotcha...here's the circuit board front and back. Looks OK to me, would the battery go on the back?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭emeldc


    That long silver piece, the battery slips in under that. It's about he size of a 5c coin and wafer thin. On the other side you can actually see the buttons.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    That long silver piece, the battery slips in under that. It's about he size of a 5c coin and wafer thin. On the other side you can actually see the buttons.

    Great stuff thanks a million, will try and get a battery so and see what happens. You reckon hardware stores do them?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    Great stuff thanks a million, will try and get a battery so and see what happens. You reckon hardware stores do them?

    ........... Or maybe a good key cutter/ locksmith. A lot of them cut the blades for car keys these days and so would be familiar with the fobs as well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,529 ✭✭✭TJJP


    Looks like a CR2016 battery is what's needed. The shiny side with lettering goes face down (+), the silver tab in the picture connects the other side (-) and holds the battery in place.

    You might need to re programme the key once you have the battery in it. Looks like there's more info here on that - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1040187-Factory-e36-alarm-key-fob-programing

    Theres a few different methods suggested though - http://www.bmw-driver.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26665 and here.. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=54765


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    TJJP wrote: »
    Looks like a CR2016 battery is what's needed. The shiny side with lettering goes face down (+), the silver tab in the picture connects the other side (-) and holds the battery in place.

    You might need to re programme the key once you have the battery in it. Looks like there's more info here on that - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1040187-Factory-e36-alarm-key-fob-programing

    Theres a few different methods suggested though - http://www.bmw-driver.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26665 and here.. http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=54765

    Thanks for that!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,195 ✭✭✭✭jimgoose


    Well, as the fella said I don't have a solution, but I admire the problem. Bravo, Sir! :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    So haven't gone the battery route just yet as haven't had a chance to get to hardware shop but rang Autokey on the naas road and they will refurbish the key for 100 euro. Not a bad fall back all things considered and possibly my best bet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    So haven't gone the battery route just yet as haven't had a chance to get to hardware shop but rang Autokey on the naas road and they will refurbish the key for 100 euro. Not a bad fall back all things considered and possibly my best bet.

    I think that's expensive if they are going to use the guts from your key. The board is the expensive bit. You can buy the rest on ebay for less than a tenner.
    Why dont you ring BMW and see how much is a new one. Is the car an E36 model.

    Here ya go;

    http://www.ebay.ie/itm/REPLACEMENT-3-BUTTON-KEY-CASE-FOR-BMW-E36-E38-E39-Z3-3-5-7-SERIES-REMOTE-GROOVED-/320963334208?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item4abae7d040


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    emeldc wrote: »
    I think that's expensive if they are going to use the guts from your key. The board is the expensive bit. You can buy the rest on ebay for less than a tenner.
    Why dont you ring BMW and see how much is a new one. Is the car an E36 model.

    Its an E46...if I have the working circuit board (although there is no way of confirming its working till I get the battery) do I just need the replacement cover for it though? From speaking to a few locksmiths today they were saying a refurbishment would generally mean recutting the key and inserting the old board into a new cover on the new key.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,598 ✭✭✭emeldc


    niallo24 wrote: »
    Its an E46...if I have the working circuit board (although there is no way of confirming its working till I get the battery) do I just need the replacement cover for it though? From speaking to a few locksmiths today they were saying a refurbishment would generally mean recutting the key and inserting the old board into a new cover on the new key.

    If the blade doesn't come out of the old one then yes, you will need to get one cut. But if you think you think about it you're paying €100 for a plastic cover and a keycut. Unless they're supplying you with a new board which I doubt.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,772 ✭✭✭jameshayes


    I think you're over complicating this... just get a battery and see what happens.. be about 5 quid or something


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    Got a 2016 but it won't work from what I am trying? Which is putting in the area for the battery, it won't fit under the grey bit of metal though so you have to put it over that and it fits perfectly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,529 ✭✭✭TJJP


    That's weird, what's written on the key, the CR number seems to be on the plastic, but I can't quite read if from the photo? It might be a smaller battery, a cr2015 but that would be unusual, and annoying!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    TJJP wrote: »
    That's weird, what's written on the key, the CR number seems to be on the plastic, but I can't quite read if from the photo? It might be a smaller battery, a cr2015 but that would be unusual, and annoying!

    Yeah it says 2016 on the plastic so that's definitely the battery required...may be the circuit board is goosed then which is not good news!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,529 ✭✭✭TJJP


    Should be a tight fit, but it only goes one way so you must have it right with the tab underneath. Have a look at this, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwZs9yzzYpg, from this video it goes shiny side up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,529 ✭✭✭TJJP


    By the way, note the little transponder chip in the key in the video, might be slightly different design to your key, but if you have one and it's missing you're going to be in a tricky situation I'm sorry to say.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 26,280 ✭✭✭✭Eric Cartman


    Its not the keyless entry board is your problem , the lawnmower has eaten the ews passive tag , (looks like a small silicone bar inside the key housing about 1cm long , there should be a slot for it, try autokey but id say a dealer is the only one that can code a new one for you,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,832 ✭✭✭Dr.Winston O'Boogie


    TJJP wrote: »
    By the way, note the little transponder chip in the key in the video, might be slightly different design to your key, but if you have one and it's missing you're going to be in a tricky situation I'm sorry to say.

    Yeah first I had heard of that I have to say, well that's definitely gone if it was ever there before so that worries me...
    Its not the keyless entry board is your problem , the lawnmower has eaten the ews passive tag , (looks like a small silicone bar inside the key housing about 1cm long , there should be a slot for it, try autokey but id say a dealer is the only one that can code a new one for you,

    Is the same thing as described above?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,401 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    The transponder bead isn't on the PCB, its a separate plastic chip, about 4mm wide and 6mm long.

    It should look like this:-


    http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51EggYFpg-L._SY300_.jpg

    It could be still embedded in the plastic casing of the key that broke off or it went flying. If you do find the chip tape it beside the Antenna and it should read it.


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