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soil sample results

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  • 01-04-2014 7:03pm
    #1
    visatorro
    Registered Users Posts: 3,152 ✭✭✭


    What does anyone think? Does this ground need anything in particular


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    #2
    cormywormy
    Registered Users Posts: 319 ✭✭cormywormy


    P and k looks low doesnt it, could spread 0-10-20 to bring them up. what is the ground in, micro-nutrients look good and high all round.


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    #3
    frazzledhome
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,278 ✭✭✭frazzledhome


    visatorro wrote: »
    What does anyone think? Does this ground need anything in particular

    Needs p&k. I'd go with 18/6/12 for the season. Would be inclined to go with 0/10/20 at the end of the season. Stay away from urea and retest in two yrs. This is one field?

    Ph is fine so no lime needed.


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    #4
    munkus
    Closed Accounts Posts: 531 ✭✭✭munkus


    Just P and K, grand for lime. Nice copper.


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    #5
    ABlur
    Registered Users Posts: 817 ✭✭✭ABlur


    According to the table on page 9 of todays Farming Indo it needs 60 kg P per Ha and 110 kg K per Ha.


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    #6
    farmernewbie
    Registered Users Posts: 246 ✭✭farmernewbie


    Lads I had soil results with low potash in all samples. Teagasc guy recommend 0.7.30. But checking prices that seems to be approx €385.
    Would I not be as well off going with 10.10.20. Price around €440.


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    #7
    J.O. Farmer
    Registered Users Posts: 2,438 ✭✭✭J.O. Farmer


    farmernewbie wrote: »
    Lads I had soil results with low potash in all samples. Teagasc guy recommend 0.7.30. But checking prices that seems to be approx €385.
    Would I not be as well off going with 10.10.20. Price around €440.

    If it's just the potash you were better with the 0.7.30. If you use the 10.10.20 you will need to put out 1 1/2 times the amount to get the same amount of potash. You will also have about as much as N as half the amount in CAN. Half a tonne of CAN won't cost you €275.


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    #8
    newholland mad
    Registered Users Posts: 326 ✭✭newholland mad


    Be careful with too much K early on as it locks up magnesium an drives tetany mad, not so bad for the dairy lads with nuts in the parlor but for sucklers + sheep watch out.


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    #9
    farmernewbie
    Registered Users Posts: 246 ✭✭farmernewbie


    J.O. Farmer wrote: »
    If it's just the potash you were better with the 0.7.30. If you use the 10.10.20 you will need to put out 1 1/2 times the amount to get the same amount of potash. You will also have about as much as N as half the amount in CAN. Half a tonne of CAN won't cost you €275.

    Cheers, may go for 0.7.30 and top up with CAN. Have bought this years fert already so will be a job for next year.


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    #10
    farmernewbie
    Registered Users Posts: 246 ✭✭farmernewbie


    newholland mad wrote: »
    Be careful with too much K early on as it locks up magnesium an drives tetany mad, not so bad for the dairy lads with nuts in the parlor but for sucklers + sheep watch out.

    Just young weanlings to bullocks is my system. The ground I would be putting this on would be for silage. Presume it wouldn't be a worry then? As I will take a cut of silage off first.


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    #11
    limerick farmer
    Registered Users Posts: 87 ✭✭limerick farmer


    3 or 4 thousand gallons of slurry to the acre would be the cheapest way out if you had it.


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    #12
    frazzledhome
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,278 ✭✭✭frazzledhome


    limerick farmer wrote: »
    3 or 4 thousand gallons of slurry to the acre would be the cheapest way out if you had it.

    Slurry is great for an instant hit but doesn't have the power to last in the soil IMO. The bag really can't be beaten along with slurry.
    Now dung on the other hand is really powerful


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    #13
    farmernewbie
    Registered Users Posts: 246 ✭✭farmernewbie


    limerick farmer wrote: »
    3 or 4 thousand gallons of slurry to the acre would be the cheapest way out if you had it.

    I wish I had but no shed unfort.


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    #14
    Greengrass1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,493 ✭✭✭Greengrass1


    frazzledhome wrote: »
    Slurry is great for an instant hit but doesn't have the power to last in the soil IMO. The bag really can't be beaten along with slurry.
    Now dung on the other hand is really powerful

    Serious stuff. K on the floor here a few yrs ago. Only spread dung spring and autumn along with some pasture sward and its index 3 now


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    #15
    frazzledhome
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,278 ✭✭✭frazzledhome


    Greengrass1 wrote: »
    Serious stuff. K on the floor here a few yrs ago. Only spread dung spring and autumn along with some pasture sward and its index 3 now

    I've a lot of dung here but find it really hard to find a window to spread it. When do you spread? I was hoping to spread after silage. Do you spread after grazing? We used to grow beet, maize and kale and ploughed it in


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    #16
    Deepsouthwest
    Registered Users Posts: 2,282 ✭✭✭Deepsouthwest


    frazzledhome wrote: »
    I've a lot of dung here but find it really hard to find a window to spread it. When do you spread? I was hoping to spread after silage. Do you spread after grazing? We used to grow beet, maize and kale and ploughed it in

    Always feel just before reseeding is as good a time as any, and til it in. Only other option for getting it on grazing ground is after final grazing in the fall, but then ur up against closed periods etc


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    #17
    Greengrass1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,493 ✭✭✭Greengrass1


    frazzledhome wrote: »
    I've a lot of dung here but find it really hard to find a window to spread it. When do you spread? I was hoping to spread after silage. Do you spread after grazing? We used to grow beet, maize and kale and ploughed it in

    Have about 150t spread already on 16 ac.that's due to be reseeded
    Usually spread it on the dry fields after first grazing in spring. To wet this year so a lot is still in the yard. Silage ground would get a a lot too in march most yrs but too wet this year.

    We have pit here that gets filled up with ****ty dung off passages over winter.
    When that's empty we empty sheds out into it and spread in September time while its still dry.
    Savage stuff to grow grass over winter.

    Have two 5 bay lean twos here with about 4-5 ft of dung in it that's been shipped out to rented ground thus year as it was so neglected by the previous tenants.

    Lad I know spread dung on kale ground before he sows it and says it turned back up the next year. Said it was a disaster


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    #18
    f140
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 875 ✭✭✭f140


    18.6.12 is one of the best ferts there is I think. its supposed to be a very good price this year aswell.


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    #19
    Brown Podzol
    Registered Users Posts: 1,847 ✭✭✭Brown Podzol


    Deepsouthwest wrote: »
    Always feel just before reseeding is as good a time as any, and til it in. Only other option for getting it on grazing ground is after final grazing in the fall, but then ur up against closed periods etc

    Closed period for FYM is 1Nov, if your closing from early Oct then time to have enough ground avalaible. The crows will do a good job on it over the winter, about the only thing the fcukers are good for.


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    #20
    visatorro
    Registered Users Posts: 3,152 ✭✭✭visatorro


    frazzledhome wrote: »
    Needs p&k. I'd go with 18/6/12 for the season. Would be inclined to go with 0/10/20 at the end of the season. Stay away from urea and retest in two yrs. This is one field?

    Ph is fine so no lime needed.

    Yeah one field reseeded two years ago. What's the story with manganese?? I was reading the bolus I bought for the cows doesn't have it.


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    #21
    Sami23
    Registered Users Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭Sami23


    f140 wrote: »
    18.6.12 is one of the best ferts there is I think. its supposed to be a very good price this year aswell.

    Replenish not bad either. (18-2.5-14 +2 Sulpher + trace elements)


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    #22
    Round Bale
    Closed Accounts Posts: 118 ✭✭Round Bale


    f140 wrote: »
    18.6.12 is one of the best ferts there is I think. its supposed to be a very good price this year aswell.

    Go one better. 10:10:20
    Nothing beats it, I reckon.


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    #23
    onyerbikepat
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,921 ✭✭✭onyerbikepat


    Remember too the difference between Units of fertiliser and Kgs. A 50 Kg bag of 18-6-12 contains 9kg N, 3Kg P & 6 Kg of K.
    Units come from the old system of CWTs. One CWT was 112 LB or 50.8 Kg.
    Units were % points. So 18-6-12 was
    18% N
    6% P
    12% K

    18% N would be 18% of a CWT equal to 9 Kg of Nitrogen per small 50Kg bag. (50.8 x 18% = 9.14 Kg)


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    #24
    Sami23
    Registered Users Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Round Bale wrote: »
    Go one better. 10:10:20
    Nothing beats it, I reckon.

    a little low in N imo


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    #25
    blue5000
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,635 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Greengrass1 wrote: »
    Have about 150t spread already on 16 ac.that's due to be reseeded
    Usually spread it on the dry fields after first grazing in spring. To wet this year so a lot is still in the yard. Silage ground would get a a lot too in march most yrs but too wet this year.

    We have pit here that gets filled up with ****ty dung off passages over winter.
    When that's empty we empty sheds out into it and spread in September time while its still dry.
    Savage stuff to grow grass over winter.

    Have two 5 bay lean twos here with about 4-5 ft of dung in it that's been shipped out to rented ground thus year as it was so neglected by the previous tenants.

    Lad I know spread dung on kale ground before he sows it and says it turned back up the next year. Said it was a disaster

    I'm doing that here and have no problems. I stack mine for about 3-6 months first though. Was he spreading it straight out of the shed by any chance?

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



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    #26
    Sami23
    Registered Users Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭Sami23


    visatorro wrote: »
    What does anyone think? Does this ground need anything in particular

    Do you mind me asking where did you get this test done and how much it cost as I am thinking of getting a sample done with the trace elements also ?


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    #27
    Bulmers Original
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 9 ✭Bulmers Original


    What's the PH level of BOG land any one know?


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    #28
    visatorro
    Registered Users Posts: 3,152 ✭✭✭visatorro


    Sami23 wrote: »
    Do you mind me asking where did you get this test done and how much it cost as I am thinking of getting a sample done with the trace elements also ?

    Oldcastle Labs. I think it was 70 euro


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    #29
    Farrell
    Registered Users Posts: 2,262 ✭✭✭Farrell


    visatorro wrote: »
    Oldcastle Labs. I think it was 70 euro

    I got it done through agri consultants for €25, mightened of been trace elements


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    #30
    blue5000
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,635 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Bulmers Original wrote: »
    What's the PH level of BOG land any one know?
    It is usually acidic, below 7.0, can be as low as 5.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



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    #31
    Sami23
    Registered Users Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Got test result back today, P was a disaster came in at 0.9 Any opinions on whether I should go with Phosphorus now or wait til back end ?
    Also this field is peaty clay which would be wet enough in winter time, could this be the reason for such low P ?


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