Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

soil sample results

  • 01-04-2014 6:03pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,561 ✭✭✭


    What does anyone think? Does this ground need anything in particular


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 319 ✭✭cormywormy


    P and k looks low doesnt it, could spread 0-10-20 to bring them up. what is the ground in, micro-nutrients look good and high all round.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,278 ✭✭✭frazzledhome


    visatorro wrote: »
    What does anyone think? Does this ground need anything in particular

    Needs p&k. I'd go with 18/6/12 for the season. Would be inclined to go with 0/10/20 at the end of the season. Stay away from urea and retest in two yrs. This is one field?

    Ph is fine so no lime needed.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 531 ✭✭✭munkus


    Just P and K, grand for lime. Nice copper.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 826 ✭✭✭ABlur


    According to the table on page 9 of todays Farming Indo it needs 60 kg P per Ha and 110 kg K per Ha.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭farmernewbie


    Lads I had soil results with low potash in all samples. Teagasc guy recommend 0.7.30. But checking prices that seems to be approx €385.
    Would I not be as well off going with 10.10.20. Price around €440.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,538 ✭✭✭J.O. Farmer


    Lads I had soil results with low potash in all samples. Teagasc guy recommend 0.7.30. But checking prices that seems to be approx €385.
    Would I not be as well off going with 10.10.20. Price around €440.

    If it's just the potash you were better with the 0.7.30. If you use the 10.10.20 you will need to put out 1 1/2 times the amount to get the same amount of potash. You will also have about as much as N as half the amount in CAN. Half a tonne of CAN won't cost you €275.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 328 ✭✭newholland mad


    Be careful with too much K early on as it locks up magnesium an drives tetany mad, not so bad for the dairy lads with nuts in the parlor but for sucklers + sheep watch out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭farmernewbie


    If it's just the potash you were better with the 0.7.30. If you use the 10.10.20 you will need to put out 1 1/2 times the amount to get the same amount of potash. You will also have about as much as N as half the amount in CAN. Half a tonne of CAN won't cost you €275.

    Cheers, may go for 0.7.30 and top up with CAN. Have bought this years fert already so will be a job for next year.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭farmernewbie


    Be careful with too much K early on as it locks up magnesium an drives tetany mad, not so bad for the dairy lads with nuts in the parlor but for sucklers + sheep watch out.

    Just young weanlings to bullocks is my system. The ground I would be putting this on would be for silage. Presume it wouldn't be a worry then? As I will take a cut of silage off first.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭limerick farmer


    3 or 4 thousand gallons of slurry to the acre would be the cheapest way out if you had it.


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,278 ✭✭✭frazzledhome


    3 or 4 thousand gallons of slurry to the acre would be the cheapest way out if you had it.

    Slurry is great for an instant hit but doesn't have the power to last in the soil IMO. The bag really can't be beaten along with slurry.
    Now dung on the other hand is really powerful


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 246 ✭✭farmernewbie


    3 or 4 thousand gallons of slurry to the acre would be the cheapest way out if you had it.

    I wish I had but no shed unfort.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,493 ✭✭✭Greengrass1


    Slurry is great for an instant hit but doesn't have the power to last in the soil IMO. The bag really can't be beaten along with slurry.
    Now dung on the other hand is really powerful

    Serious stuff. K on the floor here a few yrs ago. Only spread dung spring and autumn along with some pasture sward and its index 3 now


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,278 ✭✭✭frazzledhome


    Serious stuff. K on the floor here a few yrs ago. Only spread dung spring and autumn along with some pasture sward and its index 3 now

    I've a lot of dung here but find it really hard to find a window to spread it. When do you spread? I was hoping to spread after silage. Do you spread after grazing? We used to grow beet, maize and kale and ploughed it in


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,282 ✭✭✭Deepsouthwest


    I've a lot of dung here but find it really hard to find a window to spread it. When do you spread? I was hoping to spread after silage. Do you spread after grazing? We used to grow beet, maize and kale and ploughed it in

    Always feel just before reseeding is as good a time as any, and til it in. Only other option for getting it on grazing ground is after final grazing in the fall, but then ur up against closed periods etc


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,493 ✭✭✭Greengrass1


    I've a lot of dung here but find it really hard to find a window to spread it. When do you spread? I was hoping to spread after silage. Do you spread after grazing? We used to grow beet, maize and kale and ploughed it in

    Have about 150t spread already on 16 ac.that's due to be reseeded
    Usually spread it on the dry fields after first grazing in spring. To wet this year so a lot is still in the yard. Silage ground would get a a lot too in march most yrs but too wet this year.

    We have pit here that gets filled up with ****ty dung off passages over winter.
    When that's empty we empty sheds out into it and spread in September time while its still dry.
    Savage stuff to grow grass over winter.

    Have two 5 bay lean twos here with about 4-5 ft of dung in it that's been shipped out to rented ground thus year as it was so neglected by the previous tenants.

    Lad I know spread dung on kale ground before he sows it and says it turned back up the next year. Said it was a disaster


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 875 ✭✭✭f140


    18.6.12 is one of the best ferts there is I think. its supposed to be a very good price this year aswell.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,847 ✭✭✭Brown Podzol


    Always feel just before reseeding is as good a time as any, and til it in. Only other option for getting it on grazing ground is after final grazing in the fall, but then ur up against closed periods etc

    Closed period for FYM is 1Nov, if your closing from early Oct then time to have enough ground avalaible. The crows will do a good job on it over the winter, about the only thing the fcukers are good for.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,561 ✭✭✭visatorro


    Needs p&k. I'd go with 18/6/12 for the season. Would be inclined to go with 0/10/20 at the end of the season. Stay away from urea and retest in two yrs. This is one field?

    Ph is fine so no lime needed.

    Yeah one field reseeded two years ago. What's the story with manganese?? I was reading the bolus I bought for the cows doesn't have it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,392 ✭✭✭Sami23


    f140 wrote: »
    18.6.12 is one of the best ferts there is I think. its supposed to be a very good price this year aswell.

    Replenish not bad either. (18-2.5-14 +2 Sulpher + trace elements)


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 118 ✭✭Round Bale


    f140 wrote: »
    18.6.12 is one of the best ferts there is I think. its supposed to be a very good price this year aswell.

    Go one better. 10:10:20
    Nothing beats it, I reckon.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,921 ✭✭✭onyerbikepat


    Remember too the difference between Units of fertiliser and Kgs. A 50 Kg bag of 18-6-12 contains 9kg N, 3Kg P & 6 Kg of K.
    Units come from the old system of CWTs. One CWT was 112 LB or 50.8 Kg.
    Units were % points. So 18-6-12 was
    18% N
    6% P
    12% K

    18% N would be 18% of a CWT equal to 9 Kg of Nitrogen per small 50Kg bag. (50.8 x 18% = 9.14 Kg)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,392 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Round Bale wrote: »
    Go one better. 10:10:20
    Nothing beats it, I reckon.

    a little low in N imo


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,757 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Have about 150t spread already on 16 ac.that's due to be reseeded
    Usually spread it on the dry fields after first grazing in spring. To wet this year so a lot is still in the yard. Silage ground would get a a lot too in march most yrs but too wet this year.

    We have pit here that gets filled up with ****ty dung off passages over winter.
    When that's empty we empty sheds out into it and spread in September time while its still dry.
    Savage stuff to grow grass over winter.

    Have two 5 bay lean twos here with about 4-5 ft of dung in it that's been shipped out to rented ground thus year as it was so neglected by the previous tenants.

    Lad I know spread dung on kale ground before he sows it and says it turned back up the next year. Said it was a disaster

    I'm doing that here and have no problems. I stack mine for about 3-6 months first though. Was he spreading it straight out of the shed by any chance?

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,392 ✭✭✭Sami23


    visatorro wrote: »
    What does anyone think? Does this ground need anything in particular

    Do you mind me asking where did you get this test done and how much it cost as I am thinking of getting a sample done with the trace elements also ?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 9 Bulmers Original


    What's the PH level of BOG land any one know?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,561 ✭✭✭visatorro


    Sami23 wrote: »
    Do you mind me asking where did you get this test done and how much it cost as I am thinking of getting a sample done with the trace elements also ?

    Oldcastle Labs. I think it was 70 euro


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,262 ✭✭✭Farrell


    visatorro wrote: »
    Oldcastle Labs. I think it was 70 euro

    I got it done through agri consultants for €25, mightened of been trace elements


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,757 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    What's the PH level of BOG land any one know?
    It is usually acidic, below 7.0, can be as low as 5.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,392 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Got test result back today, P was a disaster came in at 0.9 Any opinions on whether I should go with Phosphorus now or wait til back end ?
    Also this field is peaty clay which would be wet enough in winter time, could this be the reason for such low P ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,921 ✭✭✭onyerbikepat


    I got my own results back yesterday. Holy cow! One field at 4.5 PH.:D
    It might be cheaper buy a quarry. I knew it was severly lacking in lime by looking at it, but phew!
    Like the last poster a few fields at only index 1 in P. All corcas land. Surprised at that to be honest, cause it always got 18.6.12. Low lying Corcas type, so maybe that's why.


Advertisement