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Classic tyre change question

  • 31-03-2014 9:47am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,361 ✭✭✭


    The tires on my XT500 need changing. Thread is still fine but they're so old and presumably hardened that I just wouldn't feel safe with them anymore.

    Anyway they're not exactly what the shops have in stock so I got them in the post together with new tubes and rim bands all from a shop that specifically caters for those types of bikes. Perfect.

    Question now will I do a DIY or will I find a place that fits them for me?
    I have never done this particular job before myself and would need a couple of tools and even then I'd say no way could I do the balancing myself but at her top speed I'm unsure is that even required.

    Generally speaking I would consider this within my abilities, I do almost everything else myself, but I wonder between the hassle, the chance of messin it up, e.g. puncturing the tube or damaging the rims, should I just pay someone?

    Would you say that ordinary tyre fitters do this or will I have to go to a bike shop?

    Know a place by any chance? I'm in the Waterford area. Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,739 ✭✭✭✭minidazzler


    I've never done it or researched doing it myself, so I don't know the dangers. But, if other people can do it, then you can too. Just take it slowly and follow whatever instructions you have carefully. Fcuking up might cost you a small bit of money, but getting it right will make you feel excellent. Worth the risk if you are reasonably sure of what to do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Ever changed a bike tyre? Motorcycles are exactly the same but bigger, you just have to remember to push the bead into the rim to get it over the rim.
    Leave the tyres in the sun for a while to heat them up and make them soft.
    Get some tyre soap from a local place and a set of good tyre levers.
    Watch some vids if you are unsure.
    Its really not rocket science just look at the state of some of the rubbermonkeys fitting tyres around the place.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 896 ✭✭✭blu3r0ri0n


    Cable ties might :)



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,361 ✭✭✭Boskowski


    Thanks for the encouragement. What about balancing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,044 ✭✭✭Wossack


    is there much of a bead on a tubed tyre? That always seemed like the biggest barrier for for me to diy fitting tubeless tyres - breaking and reseating the bead


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,361 ✭✭✭Boskowski


    Good video not sure it will work with tube tyres though.
    Anyway I think I'll have a go myself. Bead shouldn't be as severe on a tube tyre.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Easy to break the bead, I use a couple of bits of 2x4 to keep the disc/sprocket from getting gritty.
    Lay the wheel on it, deflate fully and use your heel of your boot right in close to the rim.
    If that doesn't work try the sidestand leant on it, I have also found a spade to work well as you stand on it.
    Lube the tyre before you take it off, it helps a lot.
    Are the rims steel or alloy? If they are steel you can inspect them under the rim tape and make sure they are not rusty, if they are use a wirebrush and a bit of rustkill to stop further deterioration.
    Alloy rims can corrode around the spoke nuts, check them as well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,100 ✭✭✭✭Del2005


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Ever changed a bike tyre? Motorcycles are exactly the same but bigger, you just have to remember to push the bead into the rim to get it over the rim.
    Leave the tyres in the sun for a while to heat them up and make them soft.
    Get some tyre soap from a local place and a set of good tyre levers.
    Watch some vids if you are unsure.
    Its really not rocket science just look at the state of some of the rubbermonkeys fitting tyres around the place.

    With a proper machine and compressor changing a tyre is simple. Without the machine and no compressor it's not so easy.
    Boskowski wrote: »
    Thanks for the encouragement. What about balancing?



    You need to buy some bearings and either axle or paddock stands

    images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTxtzsJrPlL9uXk0dgQkppvs8BzBYLH1KNbePvuMCW28dLd4G1ihg

    balancer.jpg

    Or complete DIY

    images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSNEkuTTPX6pDNaumRe1Ii1RhbDyzonHwfjBTpm9XkF6-ZFX_EXrw


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Most tyres these days are pretty well balanced from the factory.
    Yes, you could spin and weight but TBH at the speeds an XT travels at and the roads being as bad as they are it's not critical.
    I didn't bother with the last set of Mitas E07 and I haven't been thrown out of the saddle.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    Just fitted 2 new tyres/tubes last week...as my wheels were powdercoated i had to be real careful...managed them no problems...using some 2" pieces of garden hose ,split to put over rim edges where the levers were...that first video is over complicated with the cable-ties...i've replaced tubeless tyres using a bench vice to break the beads..the hardest part to get on /off is the first and last few inches of tyre...use plenty of lube...;);)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,361 ✭✭✭Boskowski


    re: fitting
    I don't think the cable tie method will work since my tyres are tube tyres. No worries I ordered tyre irons and rim protectors, they should be here for the weekend, €20 all in off eBay from the UK.

    re: balancing
    Rememberd I actually have a Haynes manual for my bike. Front wheel easy peasy just spin the wheel fitted and when it comes to rest in the same place all the time put small weight on opposite end, rinse repeat. Rear wheel typically not required. Top speed is only 130 km/h anyway.

    I think I'm on the ball now. Thanks for the help and encouragement.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 869 ✭✭✭honeybadger


    have fun seating the tyre stop if the rear wheel has one fitted:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I don't think there will be Rimlocks on those XT's
    Usually only offroad bikes came with them as they are heavy and make balancing a pain.
    OP make sure to leave the locknut off the valve stem so if the tyre does creep then the valve doesn't get ripped out.
    If you leave the locknut off you can see the valve tilt before it pulls out.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,361 ✭✭✭Boskowski


    Right. I did it anyway and it worked alright technically speaking.
    As in they're on, but...

    Front I pierced my new tube at first try. Cost me a tenner but these things are part of the learning curve I suppose.

    Rear was a bummer what with the real sturdy tube and tire but I got it in the end, rim locks and all. The only thing that bugs me now is I think I put on the rear tire the wrong way.
    Each tyre has an arrow on it. On the front tire the arrow has 'front' written under it, no ambiguities there. But the rear tire's arrow has written rear under it so I installed the tire with that arrow pointing towards the rear.
    Now I read both arrows must point into direction of rotation. Wtf?
    Seems I have to take the rear off again and flip the fkn thing around. That's stupid but I only half blame myself. Could it be any more ambiguous? The tires are Contis btw. Tkr80 twinduros.

    What is right here now? Rear arrow towards the rear or going with rotation? Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,044 ✭✭✭Wossack


    arrow shows the rotation alright. So if its at the top edge of the tyre, it should be pointing forward, and if at the bottom, should be pointing backwards


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