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Boiler service cost/Hob installation

  • 27-03-2014 1:02am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭


    Im finally getting around to looking into the boiler servicing as hopefully the weather is getting warmer despite some recent cold spells, Im looking to get an idea of cost, and what checks I should be looking for?
    Will a printout of the exhaust emissions give an indication of the efficiency of the boiler?

    Also I would like to get a gas hob replaced at the same time, what kind of price based on a second job at the same time can I expect.
    What kind of cert should I be getting for its installation and what connection should I get?
    What kind of test can I expect done, gas detection? set the flame?

    The hob gas supply pipe is a copper pipe with no valve straight to the hob and has been that way since it was installed 15 plus years ago, Ive read that now a shut off valve is needed, unless there is a quick disconnect fitting? Can a quick disconnect fitting be used on a fixed gas hob?
    The hob isn't new but its in good condition, should I get the jets replaced, how can I tell if they are suited for mains gas, as I have been told it is, I can identify some numbers on them and what appear like a Z or an N.
    I think if there is a flexible pipe (metal braided?) for gas connections this would make the job quicker but also as the single oven that was under the original hob has been replaced and the replacement oven has less space behind it.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    cerastes wrote: »
    Im finally getting around to looking into the boiler servicing as hopefully the weather is getting warmer despite some recent cold spells, Im looking to get an idea of cost, and what checks I should be looking for?
    Will a printout of the exhaust emissions give an indication of the efficiency of the boiler?

    Also I would like to get a gas hob replaced at the same time, what kind of price based on a second job at the same time can I expect.
    What kind of cert should I be getting for its installation and what connection should I get?
    What kind of test can I expect done, gas detection? set the flame?

    The hob gas supply pipe is a copper pipe with no valve straight to the hob and has been that way since it was installed 15 plus years ago, Ive read that now a shut off valve is needed, unless there is a quick disconnect fitting? Can a quick disconnect fitting be used on a fixed gas hob?
    The hob isn't new but its in good condition, should I get the jets replaced, how can I tell if they are suited for mains gas, as I have been told it is, I can identify some numbers on them and what appear like a Z or an N.
    I think if there is a flexible pipe (metal braided?) for gas connections this would make the job quicker but also as the single oven that was under the original hob has been replaced and the replacement oven has less space behind it.

    You don't say if the boiler is gas or oil. :confused:

    The hob installation must be carried out by an RGI and they will fit it to regs, they will also take note of existing installation and that must also meet current regs or the RGI may issue you a Notice Of Warning for the work to be carried out, he may also disconnect any appliance he feels is a danger, don't expect an RGI to turn a blind eye, he is putting his name to it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    You don't say if the boiler is gas or oil. :confused:


    The hob installation must be carried out by an RGI and they will fit it to regs, they will also take note of existing installation and that must also meet current regs or the RGI may issue you a Notice Of Warning for the work to be carried out, he may also disconnect any appliance he feels is a danger, don't expect an RGI to turn a blind eye, he is putting his name to it.

    Sorry gas boiler, not condensing, gas hob, both off natural gas (mains)

    Thats what Im wondering, the current set up is there a long time and I want to fit a replacement hob, there was never a shut off valve, although it would be inaccesible behind the oven. (edit, Im not intending connecting myself, I aware the work needs to be done by an rgii, I just want to ensure the hob fits in the same space)
    Any ideas on the cost and as getting second job done at same time and benefit, if not I might hold off the hob as its not urgent.

    Both uses of gas seem to be off 15mm copper pipe, that come out of the wall and cannot be seen what thats fed off, like a larger pipe.Large estate and Id expect all houses are the same, never seen or heard of anyone getting pipes redone or upgraded.

    I think a flexible braided hose might be easier for them to instal, assuming such a thing is allowed, but Ive read a quick disconnect type fitting can be used for gas cookers/hobs, Im not sure if this is soley for bottled gas where the cooker is not fixed in place like a freestanding cooker. Can a fitting like that be used? instead of a shut off valve as the valve would be inaccessible anyway. IS the hose type meant to be braided? Id like to know what I should expect so Im not supplied something I dont or could have an alternative or not getting something I require.

    Im wondering if the gas analysis done will give an indication of the boiler efficiency also, although as long as its running it will probably have to do so long as its safe as the money isnt there to replace that as planned/hoped.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,056 ✭✭✭Egass13


    cerastes wrote: »
    Sorry gas boiler, not condensing, gas hob, both off natural gas (mains)

    Thats what Im wondering, the current set up is there a long time and I want to fit a replacement hob, there was never a shut off valve, although it would be inaccesible behind the oven. (edit, Im not intending connecting myself, I aware the work needs to be done by an rgii, I just want to ensure the hob fits in the same space)
    Any ideas on the cost and as getting second job done at same time and benefit, if not I might hold off the hob as its not urgent.

    Both uses of gas seem to be off 15mm copper pipe, that come out of the wall and cannot be seen what thats fed off, like a larger pipe.Large estate and Id expect all houses are the same, never seen or heard of anyone getting pipes redone or upgraded.

    I think a flexible braided hose might be easier for them to instal, assumign such a thing is allowed, but Ive read a quick disconnect type fitting can be used for gas cookers/hobs, Im not sure if this is soley for bottled gas where the cooker is not fixed in place like a freestanding cooker.

    Im wondering if the gas analysis done will give an indication of the boiler efficiency also, although as long as its running it will probably have to do so long as its safe as the money isnt there to replace that as hoped.

    Analysis of the boiler will give an idea of efficiency . As for hob , a flexible hose can't be used , copper only , and there MUST be an accessible shut off valve located ideally behind an access panel in the press beside the hob .
    As for second hand hob , I personally wouldn't fit it as there's no warranty or guarantee of it's safety . Also the hob must contain a flame supervision device(thermocouple)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    Egass13 wrote: »
    Analysis of the boiler will give an idea of efficiency . As for hob , a flexible hose can't be used , copper only , and there MUST be an accessible shut off valve located ideally behind an access panel in the press beside the hob .
    As for second hand hob , I personally wouldn't fit it as there's no warranty or guarantee of it's safety . Also the hob must contain a flame supervision device(thermocouple)

    Ok, so no flexible hose, I thought it might be easier to get a good connection with a metal braided (because its behind the oven) flexible hose as each end would be able to fitted independant of the pipe shape needed, I thought a rigid pipe might hinder getting a good connection, although there is a copper pipe in there now, I've no idea how the guy got all the bends in it and managed to connect both ends.

    When you say flame supervision, I assume that means shut off gas automatically if no heat is detected. I dont want to assume a new hob will have this, even if it is a regulatory requirement? is it?

    It would be possible to get access through the press beside the gas supply to get a shut off valve fitted, maybe even better if they come with a valve handle shaped to compensate for that?
    I think I'll hold off on the hob replacement just for the moment although it is on the cards for a few reasons. I'll stick with the boiler service, although everytime I start considering it, the weather turns baltic.

    Any rough ideas what I'm looking at paying? and should get, gas printout, safety cert. I think I had those before but the guy didnt give any idea of the boiler efficiency, although I dont think I thought to ask.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,056 ✭✭✭Egass13


    cerastes wrote: »
    Ok, so no flexible hose, I thought it might be easier to get a good connection with a metal braided (because its behind the oven) flexible hose as each end would be able to fitted independant of the pipe shape needed, I thought a rigid pipe might hinder getting a good connection, although there is a copper pipe in there now, I've no idea how the guy got all the bends in it and managed to connect both ends.

    When you say flame supervision, I assume that means shut off gas automatically if no heat is detected. I dont want to assume a new hob will have this, even if it is a regulatory requirement? is it?

    It would be possible to get access through the press beside the gas supply to get a shut off valve fitted, maybe even better if they come with a valve handle shaped to compensate for that?
    I think I'll hold off on the hob replacement just for the moment although it is on the cards for a few reasons. I'll stick with the boiler service, although everytime I start considering it, the weather turns baltic.

    Any rough ideas what I'm looking at paying? and should get, gas printout, safety cert. I think I had those before but the guy didnt give any idea of the boiler efficiency, although I dont think I thought to ask.

    Exactly , if the flame blows out then the gas valve shuts down. On the service , a cert and flue gas analysis are a must . The flue gas analysis will show up the efficiency of the boiler , although if your boiler is a standard efficiency it will only be in the late 70% to early 80% anyway. I've seen printouts that had standard boilers over 90% but most likely the SE didn't have his unit on the correct setting or it wasn't calibrated properly. What boiler have you ?
    Expect to pay in the region of 80 inc vat for a proper job


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    Egass13 wrote: »
    Exactly , if the flame blows out then the gas valve shuts down. On the service , a cert and flue gas analysis are a must . The flue gas analysis will show up the efficiency of the boiler , although if your boiler is a standard efficiency it will only be in the late 70% to early 80% anyway. I've seen printouts that had standard boilers over 90% but most likely the SE didn't have his unit on the correct setting or it wasn't calibrated properly. What boiler have you ?
    Expect to pay in the region of 80 inc vat for a proper job

    I have two boilers in different places (im neither swimming in it or raking it in), one is an ideal, the other is a Baxi, Im not sure of the model of the first, I think the second is a solo pf.

    Im sure I payed more than double that with bord gais in the past.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,056 ✭✭✭Egass13


    cerastes wrote: »
    I have two boilers in different places (im neither swimming in it or raking it in), one is an ideal, the other is a Baxi, Im not sure of the model of the first, I think the second is a solo pf.

    Well from the point of view of the solo they are very inefficient boilers anyway usually with high co production due to their design . If it's an ideal classic , then again fairly inefficient . Maybe if you get the same rgi to carry out both services he will look after you on the price , I always do anyway


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    Egass13 wrote: »
    Well from the point of view of the solo they are very inefficient boilers anyway usually with high co production due to their design . If it's an ideal classic , then again fairly inefficient . Maybe if you get the same rgi to carry out both services he will look after you on the price , I always do anyway

    Ok, thanks for the advice, I usually space them out to spread the cost, sometimes not getting mine done so Im covered from the other end.
    I might skip the hob and see if I can get a deal on the boilers instead.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 914 ✭✭✭shane 007


    Just make sure your service person does not confuse combustion efficiency with boiler efficiency. The 2 are very different & many people mistake one for the other.

    A FGA will only tell you combustion efficiency & for boiler efficiency you would need to be able to calculate the kw energy leaving the flow pipe.

    An indication of boiler efficiency could be given by the flue temperature. A higher than normal flue temperature would indicate that there is not good transfer from the combustion chamber into the heating system & therefore lost to atmosphere.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    shane 007 wrote: »
    Just make sure your service person does not confuse combustion efficiency with boiler efficiency. The 2 are very different & many people mistake one for the other.

    A FGA will only tell you combustion efficiency & for boiler efficiency you would need to be able to calculate the kw energy leaving the flow pipe.

    An indication of boiler efficiency could be given by the flue temperature. A higher than normal flue temperature would indicate that there is not good transfer from the combustion chamber into the heating system & therefore lost to atmosphere.

    Im not sure most people would want to or maybe know how to calculate that? kw energy leaving the flow pipe.
    If they can great, if they cant, and I can get an idea of the efficiency from them, if they can tell me that from the output flue temperature and what it should be, just to know how acceptable or tolerable the efficiency is. I cant change it now even if it would end up saving me money in the long run, but it would be nice to have some insight into the current efficiency.


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