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Tank in Attic overflowing constantly

  • 21-03-2014 5:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,073 ✭✭✭


    Hi All, Hope you can help with this issue i've been having with the water tank in my attic.
    It looks like it's set at the wrong level because there is a constant stream of water coming from the pipe into my back garden.
    My husband has had a look at it and has physically bent the lever holding the ballcock downwards to try and set the max level at a lower point but this didn't work.

    Any idea what steps I should take to fix this please?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Get a new ballcock fitted. Rubbers probably too dryed out


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,073 ✭✭✭sok2005


    We replaced the whole ballcock with a larger one to try and reset the fill point in the tank but it didn't make a difference.

    It looks like the holes for the overflow were drilled to low into the tank and it overflows at the normal level not at an overflow level.

    Sorry i'm definitely being unclear.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,381 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    If its attached to a plastic tank, the area where the ballcock goes through may need to be braced to stop the whole ballcock moving upward, as the body of the ballcock should not move. Only the arm should move.

    If the hole that you mention was drilled too low, bending the arm on the ballcock should overcome that problem.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,340 CMod ✭✭✭✭Davy


    sok2005 wrote: »
    We replaced the whole ballcock with a larger one to try and reset the fill point in the tank but it didn't make a difference.

    It looks like the holes for the overflow were drilled to low into the tank and it overflows at the normal level not at an overflow level.

    Sorry i'm definitely being unclear.

    When was the last work done on the tank?

    Has it been overflowing since?

    That should have been spotted if that is the case. You can remove the ballcock, buy a plug to fill the hole, and re-drill a new hole lower down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    sok2005 wrote: »
    We replaced the whole ballcock with a larger one to try and reset the fill point in the tank but it didn't make a difference.

    It looks like the holes for the overflow were drilled to low into the tank and it overflows at the normal level not at an overflow level.

    Sorry i'm definitely being unclear.

    Did you replace the whole ballcock fitting ? From what you say, I get the feeling that you may have just got a larger ball. Is there a second tank for the heating that could be overflowing ?
    Jim.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 366 ✭✭cruiser202006


    Has it only just started being an issue? Could be a leaking coil in the cylinder. Is the heating pressurised or is the expansion tank higher than the storage tank?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,073 ✭✭✭sok2005


    Thanks for all responses.

    Overflow has been a problem since we bought the house, it was a new build.
    Will try bending it further later but it's extremely tough to bend.
    We did only fit a larger ball because the rest of the linkages looks fine, only issue is the overflow is on the same level as the resting point for the ballcock so there's always a run of water outside.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Can you post a picture of the ball cock and the inside of the small tank.Maybe we could can simplify the solution for you


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Has it only just started being an issue? Could be a leaking coil in the cylinder. Is the heating pressurised or is the expansion tank higher than the storage tank?

    +1


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    You shouldn't have to bend the arm, the linkage should be adjustable.
    Jim.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,073 ✭✭✭sok2005


    Thanks again for all Info, it has been invaluable. Realised I could move the links. Went up this morning and took the picture attached.
    Raised the small tank by putting books under it so it pushed the pipework connected to the ballcock in the big tank up a bit, it seems to have lowered the stop point in the big tank by about 2 inches.
    Is this safe?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    It looks like the copper fill pipe was too low/short and flexing/pulling out the side of the tank. Because the ball was set so high, the water was overflowing and the valve never shut off. As long as nothing is strained, and that copper fill pipe is supported, it should be OK now. Maybe a piece of wood instead of books might be an idea. Maybe the real plumbers will suggest something else.
    Jim.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    JamesM wrote: »
    Maybe the real plumbers will suggest something else.
    Jim.

    Ah com on! nothing unreal about you Jim. :D


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭whupdedo


    You could try ringing and plumber, they can be handy around things like that


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Ah com on! nothing unreal about you Jim. :D

    43 years oil servicing, but never qualified as a plumber :eek: :D
    Jim.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    JamesM wrote: »
    43 years oil servicing, but never qualified as a plumber :eek: :D
    Jim.
    Hi Jim,Did you do much plumbing on heating systems then,ie,install boilers,water pumps,fix leaks in the system etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    just a thought ,is that a high pressure ballcock or low pressure , to check turn off water pressure at valve and let some water run to lower level in tank , then using a plastic box under valve to prevent bits falling into tank remove ball and rod ,then unscrew brass end cover off assembly and remove restrictor inside,note way its faces, a high pressure one will have a hole of around eight of an inch or less, you can buy one in local local hardware store first very cheap and fit, .I had similar problem when my house was plumbed. also found debris in valve after plumber :( almost ruined ceiling


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