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Cladding inside of steel-shed workshop

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  • 19-03-2014 11:35pm
    #1
    limerick_woody
    Registered Users Posts: 190 ✭✭


    Hi All,
    I have a new 10x5m steel-shed that I will be using for a woodworking workshop. I would like to hang units/tools/stuff off wall but i really can't decide on a way to do it. I was thinking of putting up sheets of plywood around the walls, sitting them on the floor and screwing them to the metal as much as i can. Would this work? Could i then hang stuff off the sheets of plywood? Would T&G cladding work better perhaps (like flooring but fixed to the metal).

    Any ideas/advice?

    Regards,

    Sean


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    #2
    gman2k
    Registered Users Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    limerick_woody wrote: »
    Hi All,
    I have a new 10x5m steel-shed that I will be using for a woodworking workshop. I would like to hang units/tools/stuff off wall but i really can't decide on a way to do it. I was thinking of putting up sheets of plywood around the walls, sitting them on the floor and screwing them to the metal as much as i can. Would this work? Could i then hang stuff off the sheets of plywood? Would T&G cladding work better perhaps (like flooring but fixed to the metal).

    Any ideas/advice?

    Regards,

    Sean

    Ply or OSB will work, and you can insulate behind it. If you are fancy, plasterboard, tape and joint over the ply/ osb backing!


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    #3
    jack of all
    Registered Users Posts: 2,361 ✭✭✭jack of all


    I think ply is best, I've used a small bit in my workshop space as it's great for fixing shelving, cabinets and tools. I would suggest using shuttering grade ply over WBP as most of the WBP ply on sale now is low grade chinese stuff- full of voids and terrible to use. Ply will stiffen up the steel frame considerable. Definitely consider insulation and a vapour check on the warm side of the insulation to avoid condensation.


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    #4
    DeVore
    Business & Finance Moderators, Entertainment Moderators Posts: 32,387 Mod ✭✭✭✭DeVore


    I did just this, but it was molded-concrete walls so I was able to put some battens drilled into the walls and screwed the plywood to that. I did the same with the floor & ceiling and put insulation behind all of it and it has worked out very nicely. A small heater now has the place toasty in only a few minutes.
    I dunno how you can fix the battens to the metal walls though... I guess you could drill through them and use a nut and bolt or something but seems inelegant and someone probably has a much better solution :)

    I hung all my tools off screws into the plywood then, works lovely.
    BhQremTIgAAtM46.jpg


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    #5
    jack of all
    Registered Users Posts: 2,361 ✭✭✭jack of all


    Good point made above, re fixing of ply to steel. I would suggest fixing battens to all steel uprights with tek screws, countersinking each fixing. This allows you to increase insualtion thickness slightly, but more importantly means that ply can be fixed to these battens with regular chipboard screws or drywall screws if you want to save a few bob. Gives a neater job and much easier to fit the ply in place and no ugly tek screw heads to mess up your internal finish. If going this route and fitting electrical sockets etc the use of battens allows you to create a service zone. Fit insulation, tape vapour check to steel, fit battens, then wiring in the gap between vapour check and ply.


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