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size of door frames

  • 15-03-2014 1:22pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8


    Can anyone help me out. When replacing door frames what size exactly do you make the frame(height and width) for a 2 ft 8 door. I am running timber floors straight through so no door saddles or strips. They will be solid doors so I presume the doors will need 3 hinges, thanks for any help


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭Carpenter


    +5mm on the width
    2.5mm each side
    +10mm on the height
    2.5mm top 7.5mm bottom should be OK


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭One shot on kill


    I would of said pending on you door I would only put 4mm on width and back bevel the door also what I would do is prehang the door in the frame before fitting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭Carpenter


    Do you not think 4mm is small when taking paint on the door and frame into consideration


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 267 ✭✭baby fish


    in inches I would recommend 3/16 which fits nicely in between the suggestions above of 4 mm and 5mm, I think 3/16 is 4.7mm.

    Anything from 4mm - 5 mm will be ok.

    On the height I'd only leave 5mm initially until the door is swinging, when the door is swinging (on its hinges) mark the required margin on the bottom of the door and cut the door. You will get a much neater finish if the floor is uneven . Finished gap under the door should be 8 - 10mm to allow for good cross ventilation through your house


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭One shot on kill


    Well what I think prob doesn't really matter. But what I do think is if a lad can't work tidy gaps he normaly blames paint. Now if a painter can fill a 2mm gap with paint fair ball to him. But when your leaving your gaps to suit paint there is something wrong somewhere.

    The most important thing for the op to remember is when the is opening and closeing smoothly and the gaps around the door are straight and even all the way around it doesn't really matter a mil in the difference.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭Carpenter


    Well what I think prob doesn't really matter. But what I do think is if a lad can't work tidy gaps he normaly blames paint. Now if a painter can fill a 2mm gap with paint fair ball to him. But when your leaving your gaps to suit paint there is something wrong somewhere.

    The most important thing for the op to remember is when the is opening and closeing smoothly and the gaps around the door are straight and even all the way around it doesn't really matter a mil in the difference.

    OK lets say there is a 2mm gap which is no problem to do then you have bare timber on the door&frame what do you recommend the painter to put on .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭One shot on kill


    Paint it to a professional standard. What would you expect.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭Carpenter


    Paint it to a professional standard. What would you expect.

    OK fair comment that would mean 3 coats of paint on each edge meaning 6 layers of paint that would make the margin very small if there was 1mm left I would be surprised


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭One shot on kill


    Well that's the difference between good painters.

    Every cost should be flattened before recaoting and not leave the fat on the edges and corners. 1 mm of paint is a fair bit if paint lets be honest about it.

    And just to say I make hand made kitchens and all the doors are 2 mm and smaller gaps all the way around with no problems. Ok some doors need to be hit with the plane but normaly if there fine befor paint there normaly grand after.


    Anyway back to the op.
    If they are 2-3 mm on both sides and top well then your on the right track.


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