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Cleaning up a old bike,

  • 11-03-2014 3:31pm
    #1
    Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional South East Moderators Posts: 28,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    So found this in my aunts garage when she died last year,

    As far as my parents can remember it likely dates from the 50's or 60's, anyway I wanted to clean it up with the idea of using it as it seems in pretty good condition (very little rust etc)

    Any suggestions for best way of going about this?

    bike.png


Comments

  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    it in better nick than the one i have in my garage to start: mine a little bit older

    I'm stripping mine down, then going to get frame sandblasted and powdercoated . i'm going to need new wheels, tires and chrome bits, but will source them online


  • Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional South East Moderators Posts: 28,536 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cabaal


    From what I know its been stored in the garage for the best part of 20-25 years or so...maybe longer, before that it was used now and then.

    Tyres have had it but most everything else seems to be a thick coat of grime and dust, you can even see the cob web hanging off the front wheel.

    I'll give it a clean and see what the frame looks like,

    Any suggested source for new tyres/tubes for this sort of bike?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    The tyre and tube are probably 26", typical tyre width for older bikes is 26 x 1.375. Check the tyre wall, you might get lucky and it'll be written on it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    When you're stripping it down, repair/refurbish each part as it comes off. That way, you end up with a box full of ready to use parts at reassembly time rather than a box full of junk that you have to start repairing. It makes a big psychological difference as you see progress happening as you go rather than all at the end.

    The state of the wheel rims is important as that type may be very difficult to get these days. If they're badly rusted you may have a non-starter.

    All bearings should be user serviceable; replace the balls as a matter of course and lash on the grease.

    Chances are the tyres are 26" which is probably not the same as mtb 26" sizes.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    i plan on sourcing from here

    http://www.oldbikes.ie/


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 523 ✭✭✭piston


    I wouldn't do too much apart from clean everything, rebuild the bearings with new balls and fresh grease, replace the brake pads it should be good to go.

    Tyres will be either 26 (590, not 559 like an MTB as mentioned) or 28" (640). Hard to say which from looking at photo but it's quite relaxed angles and bolted seatstays and steeply raked front forks so could be 28" Looks like a 24" frame with 7 1/2" cranks with 44 tooth chainwheel too which makes me think 28" wheeled traditional roadster.

    You look to have 40 spoke back wheel and 32 front which would suggest prior to c1965.

    I can't see the top of the seatpost but the saddle is mounted well forward - is it one shaped like a figure "7" - if it is the bike is definitely pre-war.

    These bikes ride much nicer than many people realise and are well worth spending a bit of time on. Rod brakes in the rain are hopeless is the big downside.

    Also consider gearing. It's probably an 18 tooth freewheel. A bike like this should have a gear no higher than about 63" unless you live somewhere very flat (or you like walking up hills). I would fit a 20 tooth freewheel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,313 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    I'd be amazed if the seat post and handle bar stem are not siezed in the frame.

    Worth checking these first before spending too much time on it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 523 ✭✭✭piston


    Steel frame and steel stem and seat post. Easy to sort. Turn bike upside down and fill the steerer and seat tube with diesel and let soak for a few days.

    They were probably well greased on assembly anyway.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,744 ✭✭✭diomed


    That back wheel has an impressive spoke count, at least 36 spokes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 63 ✭✭VinDevo


    If you can read the frame number you can date the bike

    http://www.oldbike.eu/museum/frame-number-bicycle-dating-guide/

    It looks like a Raleigh so you can tell where it was made, D for Ireland,

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raleigh_Bicycle_Company#Serial_numbers


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,744 ✭✭✭diomed


    I would be thinking of powder-coating the frame a very black black.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,041 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    piston wrote: »
    with 44 tooth chainwheel too ........ It's probably an 18 tooth freewheel. ......... I would fit a 20 tooth freewheel.
    Would that not leave it geared way too low for flat cycling? I'd imagine that one would spin out at anything over 20kph.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 619 ✭✭✭mikehn


    Anyone know anyplace in Ireland to get stuff rechromed.
    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 523 ✭✭✭piston


    Would that not leave it geared way too low for flat cycling? I'd imagine that one would spin out at anything over 20kph.

    Outright speed isn't the point of a bike like this but I wouldn't necessarily consider it too low unless the OP lives somewhere unusually flat. Any single speed bike is always going to be a compromise. This is a heavy bike. Your knees will thank you long term if you compromise on the low side. 44/20 on either 26" or 28" wheel should leave you with a comfortable cruising speed of about 16 - 18 mph on the flat which on a rod braked bike is as fast as I'd want to go anyway, especially if it's raining.


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