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Zinsser BIN coming out rough, need some help

  • 17-02-2014 10:25pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭


    Hi, I'm painting my kitchen cabinets and was recommended in the paint shop to use Zinsser BIN for the primer. I've done a couple of doors but found it tricky to work with and the result is pretty rough in places where I've brushed over more than once. Could anyone offer advise? Should I sand? Apply another coat of primer? Any general advice on how to work with this stuff would be appreciated because the finish is pretty rubbish. I'm a novice at this as you might guess.
    I'm using a 2 1/2 inches synthetic brush.
    Cheers


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,379 ✭✭✭CarrickMcJoe


    21/2 in brush is a bit big for kitchen doors. 1 1/2 is big enough. Don't overbrush BIN, as it's shellac based, it goes off almost instantly and dries in 30 mins. Use a fine sanding pad to sand it before your next coat.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Thanks a lot. That's the brush she recommended :(
    I was trying not to over brush but didn't know what I was trying to achieve. Should the finish be solid white or slightly see through? If solid white I found it was going on too thick and this was leading to the rough finish.
    Could you suggest a sandpaper to use?
    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 494 ✭✭vinnie13


    21/2 in brush is a bit big for kitchen doors. 1 1/2 is big enough. Don't overbrush BIN, as it's shellac based, it goes off almost instantly and dries in 30 mins. Use a fine sanding pad to sand it before your next coat.

    2 1/2 is perfect for itchen doors the smaller one wont do as good job


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,379 ✭✭✭CarrickMcJoe


    Should be slightly see through. Its only a primer.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    I've used Zinnser BIN with good results but as pointed out it is tricky to use as it goes off so quick and it's hard to keep a wet edge. I would tend to add a tiny drop of meths to the tin as I am using it as the solvent does evaporate in the tin, almost as you're using it, especially in warm conditions. As it's only a primer (designed to hide/ block stains and provide a good key over smooth surfaces) I would aim on getting a good quick coat over all the surfaces, you can rub down and touch up any rough areas later. Don't focus on getting a perfect smooth finish as you will need to rub down lightly anyway before the next coat. Even if you sand through the primer it's quick and easy to touch up again and you can proceed onto the next coat in an hour or so. I used it to prime this wardrobe (to convert it to a larder/ pantry unit), which was pine and heavily waxed originally- a disaster to paint successfully. After rigorous preparation the paint finish has stood up well and I don't think I would have got as good a result from another product.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Nice job Jack! Thanks for the tip. Been sanding this afternoon and I'm much happier with it. Will give it a light 2nd coat this evening.
    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    Cheers, I was very happy with how it turned out. I followed up the primer with 2/ 3 coats of Colortrend satinwood, using a good quality synthetic fibre brush and taking care to lay off evenly in continuous strokes from top to bottom. I used a very fine abrasive sponge to rub down between coats, applying just enough pressure to remove any lumps, loose bristles and other surface imperfections. I'm not a fan of water based wood finishes generally but the Colortrend product was pretty good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Good to know Jack. I'll be using colourtrend sustain, eggshell finish. That's what they recommended. Can't find anything about it online though. They can make it up in any of the colourtrend colours and its supposed to be the most durable product they carry.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Found this, not sure which particular product it is ...
    http://www.sustainrange.ie/sustainrange/sustaincare-wood-coating/

    From the same parent company as colourtrend. Wonder are they pushing a new product range, they only had a couple tins of it on the shelf. I've yet to buy it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,379 ✭✭✭CarrickMcJoe


    Product is WB50. Very hardwearing, part of the sustain range. It will take 3 coats to cover. Don't lay it on thick as it will run and never go back to touch up as it will show up in the finish.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Thanks C. Sounds tricky stuff. I don't mind admitting I'm a novice. Would you reckon there's an easier product for me to work with, like the satinwood range? Or would that be the same being water based?
    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,379 ✭✭✭CarrickMcJoe


    Dulux satinwood, 2 coats, easier to apply, much longer drying time, strong smell.

    If you clip the doors off, you could lay them flat and use the WB50. Dry in an hour and no runs. If you do make a mistake, leave it to dry, sand lightly and repaint.
    Paint the moulding first, then the flat area, followed by the outer edge, top rail, bottom rail and 2 side rails.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Thanks again. I'm painting them flat so I'll go with the WB50. That's just the advise I'm looking for!
    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    Follow CarrickMcJoe's advice re order of painting panelled doors and you'll have a good job, this is exactly how I did it (it's the traditional way to paint any panelled door or joinery).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭redser7


    Thanks Jack. Yeah it's very ABC advise, just what I need.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    Sorry to go back to this thread. I'm painting old bathroom cabinets - laminates. I'm using BIN - first coat seems to have gone on fine. Hard to keep a wet edge alright. Plan to sand it and paint over it but should I put a second coat of primer on?

    Or should I put on a normal primer before the top coat?

    Thanks for the help.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,153 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    karlitob wrote: »
    Sorry to go back to this thread. I'm painting old bathroom cabinets - laminates. I'm using BIN - first coat seems to have gone on fine. Hard to keep a wet edge alright. Plan to sand it and paint over it but should I put a second coat of primer on?

    Or should I put on a normal primer before the top coat?

    Thanks for the help.

    2 zinnser prime coats & 2 final satinwood coats. Very light rubdown between all coats. The BIN can be over painted within an hour. As you've noticed, it cures very quickly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    dodzy wrote: »
    2 zinnser prime coats & 2 final satinwood coats. Very light rubdown between all coats. The BIN can be over painted within an hour. As you've noticed, it cures very quickly.

    Thanks - turned out great.

    Another query - I have an old plc window in the same bathroom - thinking of painting it also. BIN for undercoat or sandtex?

    Thanks in advance

    http://www.sandtex.co.uk/products/sandtex-pvc-u-primer/#prettyPhoto


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