Fencing

patks

Taking over an out-farm that was leased out this last number of years.

Getting hedges faced with a saw and need to fence perimeter to have stock proof in order to get a herd number.

I intend keeping bullocks weanling or yearlings upwards,got quotes for fencing;
3 row of barbed with 1 electric 4.50 a metre
1 row of barbed with 1 electric and sheep wire on bottom 6.00 a metre

Only intend on doing this once so want to do it right which do you think would be a better job?

mayota

patks wrote: »

Taking over an out-farm that was leased out this last number of years.

Getting hedges faced with a saw and need to fence perimeter to have stock proof in order to get a herd number.

I intend keeping bullocks weanling or yearlings upwards,got quotes for fencing;
3 row of barbed with 1 electric 4.50 a metre
1 row of barbed with 1 electric and sheep wire on bottom 6.00 a metre

Only intend on doing this once so want to do it right which do you think would be a better job?

I think go with the sheep wire then you'll have the option of keeping sheep if needs be.

49801

Single strand of electric here

farmerjj

49801 wrote: »

Single strand of electric here

+1

feartuath

Single and double electric here but all ditches are sprayed to keep briars at bay.

rushvalley

single strand of electric is plenty and keep it out from the hedge to make it easier for a hedge cutter to keep the hedges trimmed every couple of years.

severeoversteer

I got 2 strands of hotwire with 5 inch stakes, done for 1.10 a metre supply and fit

1 strand of hotwire with 5 inch stakes, done for 90 cent a metre supply and fit, 5 inch stakes are a great job and six foot six long.

got 5km of fencing done at that price last year

my fencing still isn't half done on all the land

patks

Hi Severeoversteer,are the posts creosted,im on meath/cavan border,what part of the country are you IN?
Maybe you could pm the number of who done yours.Land is about 5 mile from house with no electric on it but looking at getting a supply for fence only,that is why i was thinking of barbed/sheepwire.Thanks

hugo29

i row electric is fine, got a lot of paddocks set up and had one row electric supply and fit for €1.50 per m

Zr105

Being that the land is away from the house id be inclined to say go with barbed. If you only go single electric and the power goes the buggers wont be long finding out and will be testing the ditches behind the wire....

ABlur

Anyone have a price for 1 strand barbed? Thanks.

49801

Solar powered fencers have come on an awful lot! So you don't need electrical connection just for a fence.

Muckit

ABlur wrote: »

Anyone have a price for 1 strand barbed? Thanks.

What will that keep in or out?

Blue Holland

Would depend if there's going to be other stock joining you as to how much i'd spend.

ABlur

Muckit wrote: »

What will that keep in or out?

My neighbours horses. I'll throw on the electric myself hate doing barbed stuff dont have time.

J.O. Farmer

ABlur wrote: »

My neighbours horses. I'll throw on the electric myself hate doing barbed stuff dont have time.

I think the electric will be more effective with horses than 1 row of barbed. I can't see the 1 row of barbed being any good.
Barbed wire isn't too bad to put up once you get a thick pair of gloves. 2 hammers and you can put it up tight enough to play a tune on it.

monseiur

patks wrote: »

Taking over an out-farm that was leased out this last number of years.

Getting hedges faced with a saw and need to fence perimeter to have stock proof in order to get a herd number.

I intend keeping bullocks weanling or yearlings upwards,got quotes for fencing;
3 row of barbed with 1 electric 4.50 a metre
1 row of barbed with 1 electric and sheep wire on bottom 6.00 a metre

Only intend on doing this once so want to do it right which do you think would be a better job?

Seeing that the land is 5 miles away from you house and that there's no electric supply I'd advise to go for 3 ft. heavy guage sheep wire with a row of barbed wire on top (or 2 rows if your budget allows) around the perimiter. Getting an ESB connection just for electric fence is not a good idea, it will cost anything from €1,500 to €3,00 depending of no. of poles required etc. You will get a lot of fencing done for 3 grand and it will be more reliable and stockproof for sheep, cattle etc. Use grade one treated posts and strainers.
I understand there's a 60% grant for fencing if you have sheep, worth checking out.
You could use solar powered electric fence to divide up paddocks etc.

M.

patks

sorry the power supply would be for fence only just a socket at the bottom of a pole,
there is 4 esb poles running through with one beside yard having a transformer on it think supply is around 8 euro a month,ud spend alot more in batteries and never be finished.

larthehar

I was in the same boat a few years ago.. so what I did was but up 5ft pdms every 10 yards with electric fence high enough to accommodate a sheep wire fence underneath at a later stage.. I even h framed the strainers. So if I ever decide to get into sheep/calves drive a stake between the existing ones and put up the sheep wire..

Again I would recommend good stakes and use strainers on all corners with runs longer than 20m.. will save ya in maintenance in the long run!

tmg52

Where would I find info on Stock proof fencing, what post lengths, spacing, height of fence, depth in ground etc. Farm next door not bothered to replace old rusting barbed wire and rotting timber post. Farmer has one strand of electric fence. No cattle in at moment. Which is best Timber or concrete, guess down to cost. Any experience hole digging using hired auger think its a 2 person machine job. Also any thoughts on concreting timber post (rot at base issue) or gravel at base and rammed stone filled to allow moisture drain away etc.

Toplink

Folks,

I want to split a 30 acre holding into 3 x 10 acre sections.

There will be a 30 head of weanlings grazing this ground.

Whats the best fencing plan as a long term option here. Obviously I can use an electric fence to make sub plots of the 10 acres if needed.

But I am more interested in getting a durable long term solution to the fencing off the 10 acres sections.

larthehar

Toplink wrote: »

Folks,

I want to split a 30 acre holding into 3 x 10 acre sections.

There will be a 30 head of weanlings grazing this ground.

Whats the best fencing plan as a long term option here. Obviously I can use an electric fence to make sub plots of the 10 acres if needed.

But I am more interested in getting a durable long term solution to the fencing off the 10 acres sections.

Wel if the solution isn't cost prohibited, two rows of sheep wire with barbed on top, approx 1m apart. Sow hedging in a zigzag fashion inbetween the two runs of wire and you have a nice hedge that will provide shelter and in time the wire fence can be removed or let the hedge grow out around it..

that's as long term as you get!

agriman27

tmg52 wrote: »

Where would I find info on Stock proof fencing, what post lengths, spacing, height of fence, depth in ground etc. Farm next door not bothered to replace old rusting barbed wire and rotting timber post. Farmer has one strand of electric fence. No cattle in at moment. Which is best Timber or concrete, guess down to cost. Any experience hole digging using hired auger think its a 2 person machine job. Also any thoughts on concreting timber post (rot at base issue) or gravel at base and rammed stone filled to allow moisture drain away etc.

You should search (farm fencing) on YouTube there are loads of good videos on different types of fencing, i found it interestin and got some ideas.I like using good quality railway sleepers for strainers and hanging gates they last a long time and you can drill holes and put coach screws in them,I usually dig a hole and throw a few old blocks and stones around them and a bit of concrete on top.

49801

agriman27 wrote: »

You should search (farm fencing) on YouTube there are loads of good videos on different types of fencing, i found it interestin and got some ideas.I like using good quality railway sleepers for strainers and hanging gates they last a long time and you can drill holes and put coach screws in them,I usually dig a hole and throw a few old blocks and stones around them and a bit of concrete on top.

Concrete and wood.......... Nooooooooooooooooooooo:(
Don't do it!:eek:

agriman27

49801 wrote: »

Concrete and wood.......... Nooooooooooooooooooooo:(
Don't do it!:eek:

I was only talking about a couple of inches of concrete which wouldn't make much difference to a sleeper IMO. What way would you recommend doing it your not using post driver, fill it to the top with gravel?

49801

agriman27 wrote: »

I was only talking about a couple of inches of concrete which wouldn't make much difference to a sleeper IMO. What way would you recommend doing it your not using post driver, fill it to the top with gravel?

Was just winding you up.:pac:

Could you tamp the soil with a sledge as you fill it back in in layers?
Use rocks to tighten the space between the sleeper and edge of hole.
Pea gravel is a good job but you you might not have it to hand.

If you really want to do a top job fix some 2x4 horizontally every so often in the hole as you fill and tamp it with sledge.

Anything but concrete and wood:pac:

Toplink

larthehar wrote: »

Wel if the solution isn't cost prohibited, two rows of sheep wire with barbed on top, approx 1m apart. Sow hedging in a zigzag fashion inbetween the two runs of wire and you have a nice hedge that will provide shelter and in time the wire fence can be removed or let the hedge grow out around it..

that's as long term as you get!

Thanks!

Outside of budget though!

I am thinking of running concrete posts... 3 strands of wire with one of them electrified using a solar fence.

150m stretch so not sure of coast?