Problem with satin and gloss paint - advice please!

yellow hen

I recently painted some doors in our house that I thought had been painted with a white satin paint. I therefore used a satin again only to see that they've discoloured really badly now... Turns out it was a gloss underneath and the paints don't appear to be able to make friends. Taking the doors down and stripping them isn't an option. If I use satin on top again will they just discolour even further or should I return to using a gloss? Thanks.

nearzero

Sounds more like the new paint you used was poor quality - some of the cheaper brands which are supposed to be white can discolour very quickly.

Check out the Zinsser range of products, you can get them from Colortrend stores - the might have something that you can prime them with without having to strip them back & then repaint??

Nu Look

You need to sand them. Dust down
apply coat of oil based undercoat to give you good base coat to work with.

Then apply coat of your chosen finish.

Best luck.

Maybe call professional tradesman in.

CarrickMcJoe

Is it possible you used a waterbased satin on them. It may have cissed on the original coating. Otherwise do as NuLook advises. No need to strip them.

oisinbutler

yellow hen wrote: »

I recently painted some doors in our house that I thought had been painted with a white satin paint. I therefore used a satin again only to see that they've discoloured really badly now... Turns out it was a gloss underneath and the paints don't appear to be able to make friends. Taking the doors down and stripping them isn't an option. If I use satin on top again will they just discolour even further or should I return to using a gloss? Thanks.

Hi, how long did it take for the paint to yellow? Most oil based paint these days yellows pretty fast because of the reduced voc levels, the oil based paint just isn't that good anymore. If you used a water based paint on the doors and its yellowing then the cause could be dirty doors and a coat of bin primer will solve that for you. As one other poster said you do need to sand back the sheen before painting over. This is so the new paint has something to grip onto. If you painted over the gloss without sanding first then you have no choice but sand off the paint you recently applied. This will be a bit easier than you imagine because the new paint won't have bonded with the old paint properly. Use some 80 grade sandpaper and a bit of elbow grease. Once the paint has been taken back dust the doors down, wipe off any dust with a damp rag and then use dulux stay white undercoat and satinwood. dulux stay white is waterbased and will stay white for longer than oil based paint. Its a bit easier to use than the oil based stuff, dries faster and theres hardly any smell.

yellow hen

Thanks for all the replies. I think the satin was water-based alright. Paying the professionals isn't an option at the moment. I'll sand the doors and put on an undercoat. Should I use an oil based satin paint then?

oisinbutler

yellow hen wrote: »

Thanks for all the replies. I think the satin was water-based alright. Paying the professionals isn't an option at the moment. I'll sand the doors and put on an undercoat. Should I use an oil based satin paint then?

It will give a better result if you use oil over oil. 2 coats of oil based satinwood should do the trick in this case. Otherwise you can apply a coat of bin primer and then 2 coats of water based satinwood. All this once the surface has been rubbed down and cleaned down first. Painting is all about preperation! When the first coat has dried you might give it a light rub with some 150 grade sandpaper before applying the finish coat.
Make sure to give the paint a good stir before you use it too.

Let us know how you get on

oisinbutler

yellow hen wrote: »

Thanks for all the replies. I think the satin was water-based alright. Paying the professionals isn't an option at the moment. I'll sand the doors and put on an undercoat. Should I use an oil based satin paint then?

By the way, if you already have the water based satinwood and have enough to complete the job then it will be cheaper to use the bin primer and then a couple of coats of the water based satinwood than to go buy some oil based paint. There'll be no need for an undercoat either way. With satinwood we generally apply 2 coats for a finish unlike gloss. With gloss we usually undercoat first. This doesn't apply if you are making a drastic colour change, in which case you should use an undercoat but for white over white 2 coats of satinwood is the way to go.

Always use good quality paints, cheaper paints will end up costing you more in the long run.

yellow hen

Thank you very much Oisin, I'm very grateful for the advice. I think it was dulux paint that we used. What would you recommend?

On an aside, are fleetwood paints any good? I find the colours on the wall aren't reflective of the colour on the tin.

oisinbutler

yellow hen wrote: »

Thank you very much Oisin, I'm very grateful for the advice. I think it was dulux paint that we used. What would you recommend?

On an aside, are fleetwood paints any good? I find the colours on the wall aren't reflective of the colour on the tin.

Dulux paint is pretty good but its better if you get dulux trade where possible. That goes for crown and fleetwood too, the trade versions are usually higher quality.
The reason your fleetwood paint looks a little different on the wall is likely due to lighting. Sometimes 2 walls painted with same paint will look like 2 different shades because of the light in the room. For this reason its best to try samples out first to see if the colour suits. That said it could also be a bad batch but nine times out of ten its down to the light.
Colourtrend would be a bit better again and top of the range for paint in ireland would be little green and farrow & ball. Farrow & ball would be the best paint in my opinion.

Having said all that Dulux is a good brand and they probably have the most colours to choose from so I'd stick with the paint you have. If you need to buy more ask for trade. You will get it in most paint shops but not in woodies, atlantic etc

irelandspurs

Bullseye 123 would be a better option than Bin for the doors

oisinbutler

irelandspurs wrote: »

Bullseye 123 would be a better option than Bin for the doors

I use the 123 primer a fair bit and its good stuff but its not a patch on bin primer when it comes to stain blocking. As a standard water based primer its excellent.

irelandspurs

oisinbutler wrote: »

I use the 123 primer a fair bit and its good stuff but its not a patch on bin primer when it comes to stain blocking. As a standard water based primer its excellent.

Bin primer has a tendency to chip as it's shellac and doors would take a lot of traffic. Bin is great stuff I'll agree with that but for doors i personally would bullseye for quickness but have used coverstain a lot recently as it brings up the finish coats brilliantly.

oisinbutler

irelandspurs wrote: »

Bin primer has a tendency to chip as it's shellac and doors would take a lot of traffic. Bin is great stuff I'll agree with that but for doors i personally would bullseye for quickness but have used coverstain a lot recently as it brings up the finish coats brilliantly.

Fair point. Cover stain would probably work out better on doors because of bins tendency to chip. It would also leave less brush strokes too.

anrai123

hi a very useful post . i recently started using dulux aquatech primer /underC and aquatech satinwood for the finish . i started on bare white deal skirtings and treated the knots with 2 coats . 2 coats of primer/ underC and put down the first coat of satinwood last night . result : I can still see the knots and i have patches appearing on the wood . Any ideas how to avoid patches ? thanks

anrai123

hi a very useful post . i recently started using dulux aquatech primer /underC and aquatech satinwood for the finish . i started on bare white deal skirtings and treated the knots with 2 coats . 2 coats of primer/ underC and put down the first coat of satinwood last night . result : I can still see the knots and i have patches appearing on the wood . Any ideas how to avoid patches ?
My architrave has mulitple coats of gloss ,its probably 50 years old . Should i strip back to bare wood or sand it down well to reveal the detail of the pattern and then follow suggested procedure above .
thanks