Suit alterations

Jonathanpbk

Hi,

So I'm going to a wedding soon and am looking to get my first fitted suit. I was going to get one of the custom ones online but it turns out I haven't left myself enough time! (as usual)

So I was thinking about just getting a suit in River Island or somewhere similar and then get it altered afterwards. But, I have a few questions I need to ask first.

I've read that for jackets, you need the shoulders and length to be about right and then get the rest taken in etc. My issue here is that I have a big-ish belly but not very broad shoulders at all. So I'm worried if I get one that fits my shoulders, I wont be able to get the rest of the suit fitted, and if I get one that fits my waist, the shoulders will be too baggy I won't be able to get it altered.

Now, I'm also looking to possibly get a 3-piece, so whats the best advice for waistcoats in terms of post-alteration?

Lastly, how much do you think it would cost to get those kind of alterations done? And can anyone recommend anyone in South Dublin (or anywhere in Dublin really! I really wan't to get this done well, and affordably!).

Thanks!

Prettyblack

Firstly, if you have a big belly, don't get a three piece, at least, the waistcoat part. That'll only make you look more stuffed in to the suit, rather than do you any favours. Some might think it hides a belly, but I don't think so.

Secondly, please don't buy your suit in River Island. They aren't good - they are badly sized and cheap material. If you want a really good, affordable suit, go to Marks and Spencers. You'll get something really good there for about €250. Make sure the jacket fits your shoulders - that is the main thing. The key to getting the jacket right is the length - make sure it is long enough. Also make sure it is a two-button jacket, and only ever button the top. The good thing about M&S is that you can buy different sized trousers with whatever jacket you get.

Then, take it to a tailor (anywhere that does alterations) and they will fit it around your waist in such a way that it will compliment your shape. The last thing you want to do is get it bigger on the shoulders so as to accomodate your waistline - it'll just look sloppy on you and may even may you look bigger.

Get the trousers taken up / down accordingly, so they have a nice break around the shoe.

Cost will vary - you could be looking at anything from 20 - 40 to alter the jacket. Trousers should only be around 15.

If you do all that, you should look great! Get a nice wide-spread collar shirt, pair with a good tie and shiny shoes and you're away.

There's a place called Fitz on Drury Street that you could try.

OldGoat

Check out the various branches of Marks & Spencers. Some offer a tailoring & alterations service. Their choice of suits is not too bad either.

As for fit you should get a jacket that fits the biggest part of you so in your case the belly. Everything else can be reduced in size. In general you should always try to get a shoulder fit but if the difference is so great that you can't close the jacket than try for a belly fit instead. Also remember that you don't have to take the trousers that are on the same hanger as the jacket.

A 3 piece is nice but it does emphasise your girth as the eye is drawn to the centre row of buttons on the waist-coat. You should conceder a double breasted jacket and that will slim your silhouette more than a single breasted jacket.

EDIT: Beaten too it.

Prettyblack

Double breasted only if the jacket is long. Otherwise it'll make you look broader.

Jonathanpbk

Thanks for the input!

Basically, the reason I wanted to go for a three piece is because I get overheated and thought I could just wear the vest for the most part to keep cool (not the most formal wedding).

I'm also not massive. My chest and waist are both ~42" but my back curves and pushes my belly out. I don't know if that means the jacket waist size will have to be above that because it needs to fall straight at the back, or not. I really haven't a clue!

Also, I was looking on Marks, Next, Debenham's etc. websites and it seems for a three piece anywhere close to pure wool, it's gonna cost me 350+. I'm really put off by that since I'd have to spend more on fitting, afterwards, on top of that and most aren't even 100% wool at that!

With the online tailor I've been looking at, I can get a custom, light, 100% wool, 3-piece for around 250 all-in. Not to mention I can get my measurements before I commit, so it shouldn't really need any alteration afterwards. That really puts me off wanting to spend way more, on a lesser quality, non-fitted suit!

I'm torn. The best outcome, really, would be if they could meet my deadline, which I've just asked them in an email. I suppose I'll know shortly what I'll have to do!

The site is Suitopia, for anyone interested, by the way.

eviltimeban

I'd be very suspicious about a bespoke suit "from 179 euro". You'd be better off going into M&S and trying on a few and then going from there.

Or, you could Suit Supply - good value and very well respected. Not bespoke, but a large range.

Again, with the jacket / waistcoat - if you are walking around with just he waist coat you're in danger of looking like a waiter - or snooker player. Best thing is ditch the waistcoat and keep the jacket - you'll stay cooler that way and can always take the jacket off if it gets too much.

Just wear a really nice shirt and tie and have a pocket square going as well and you'll look very dapper.

ladhrann

Jonathanpbk wrote: »

Also, I was looking on Marks, Next, Debenham's etc. websites and it seems for a three piece anywhere close to pure wool, it's gonna cost me 350+. I'm really put off by that since I'd have to spend more on fitting, afterwards, on top of that and most aren't even 100% wool at that!

With the online tailor I've been looking at, I can get a custom, light, 100% wool, 3-piece for around 250 all-in. Not to mention I can get my measurements before I commit, so it shouldn't really need any alteration afterwards. That really puts me off wanting to spend way more, on a lesser quality, non-fitted suit!

Keeping the waistcoat on in a formal situation is a great idea in my view and can look really neat when you otherwise would not be comfortable with the jacket on.

Danger Will Robinson. The online suit thing is a minefield and full of pitfalls. As another poster has mentioned at that price range its unlikely to really be 100% wool from a European mill. Bespoke tailoring is a complex process and putting measurements into a software programme is not going to give good results, particularly on a first try and a rush order.

Although I don't like them M&S on a pound for pound basis offer the best menswear, but as you've noticed you can't get a waiscoat. Thats all part of the limitations of RTW. In order to really get what you want you have to build a relationship with a tailor and go bespoke.

eviltimeban

ladhrann wrote: »

Although I don't like them M&S on a pound for pound basis offer the best menswear, but as you've noticed you can't get a waiscoat. Thats all part of the limitations of RTW. In order to really get what you want you have to build a relationship with a tailor and go bespoke.

M&S do have 3 piece suits, I've seen them, I've tried them on. Depends on the store as OldGoat said. For me, they are some of the best RTW suits out there.

I think Suit Supply would be a better bet than that other one - whilst I like the idea of it (and I played around with designing my own suit for about half an hour) I'd be suspicious about the results and would really want to see one to make a call on it.