Cracked sump.

RustyNut

Hi

Would anyone have any recomendations for some type of techno goo that might fix a leaking crack on an aluminium sump, otherwise I fear my favourite bangernomics to date is heading to the breakers.

Guy:Incognito

Would you not just replace the sump? Would be cheap from a breakers.

Whats the car?

wexie

RustyNut wrote: »

Hi

Would anyone have any recomendations for some type of techno goo that might fix a leaking crack on an aluminium sump, otherwise I fear my favourite bangernomics to date is heading to the breakers.

maybe I'm suggesting something completely impractical (in which case apologies) but....aluminium can be welded no?

If you can't get another sump and considering it's a bangernomics you may as well see if you cant get the crack welded?

Colash

wexie wrote: »

maybe I'm suggesting something completely impractical (in which case apologies) but....aluminium can be welded no?

If you can't get another sump and considering it's a bangernomics you may as well see if you cant get the crack welded?

More than likely u would have to take the sump off to weld it properly . Plus isn't the easiest material to weld . A replacement is the best way to go here

RustyNut

Guy:Incognito wrote: »

Would you not just replace the sump? Would be cheap from a breakers.

Whats the car?

It's an engine out job and that just makes it not worth while. It's a merc w210 e320 diesel and I love it to bits but they are cheap as chips to buy so it will be on to the next one if I can't find a cheap fix.

wexie

RustyNut wrote: »

It's an engine out job and that just makes it not worth while. It's a merc w210 e320 diesel and I love it to bits but they are cheap as chips to buy so it will be on to the next one if I can't find a cheap fix.

engine out to take off the sump?

ouch that sucks

be a shame to get rid of an otherwise good car over something like that

Guy:Incognito

So how much will you be letting it go for? :-)

Mech1

This stuff is what you need:
http://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1842

Most motor factors stock it.

Drain the oil overnight at least, wash the area inside the sump by using petrol / thinners or the like by using a squeezy bottle with a skinny tube attached and working through the sump drain hole, leave to dry, wash crack clean of oil (spray brake cleaner is good). Roughen up area around crack with mini grinder / emery whatever and apply the putty.

Good to go in 30 min.

RustyNut

Guy:Incognito wrote: »

So how much will you be letting it go for? :-)

I'll keep it as a doner if I can't sort it on the cheap,it doesn't owe me a cent.

dieselbug

Mech1 wrote: »

This stuff is what you need:
http://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1842

Most motor factors stock it.

Drain the oil overnight at least, wash the area inside the sump by using petrol / thinners or the like by using a squeezy bottle with a skinny tube attached and working through the sump drain hole, leave to dry, wash crack clean of oil (spray brake cleaner is good). Roughen up area around crack with mini grinder / emery whatever and apply the putty.

Good to go in 30 min.

I'l second that, it's an excellent product, but like all these products, preparation is the key to success.

When you have the oil drained jack up the car in such a way that the remaining oil in the sump is away from the cracked area, otherwise the oil will keep seeping through and will prevent a good bond.

Dont spare the brake cleaner.

RustyNut

Mech1 wrote: »

This stuff is what you need:
http://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1842

Most motor factors stock it.

Drain the oil overnight at least, wash the area inside the sump by using petrol / thinners or the like by using a squeezy bottle with a skinny tube attached and working through the sump drain hole, leave to dry, wash crack clean of oil (spray brake cleaner is good). Roughen up area around crack with mini grinder / emery whatever and apply the putty.

Good to go in 30 min.

Why thank you sir. I knew there would be something out there. The old girl might live to see the killakee road again (a bit slower next time tho)

Mech1

You can come back and thank me again when you realise just how successful your repair was, I bet it will be good as new, and thats without even seeing the job!

RustyNut

Mech1 wrote: »

You can come back and thank me again when you realise just how successful your repair was, I bet it will be good as new, and thats without even seeing the job!

I'll let you know how it works out, thanks.

blackbox

I repaired one once with 2-part body filler ("Plastic Padding" I think). Was a total success.

As mentioned above, preparation of the surfaces is the key to success.

.

burke027

Correct me if I'm wrong do a lot of work on Mercs and can't fully remember the set up But it's the v6 engine yea. If I right don't you just let off the steering rack I fairly sure you don't take out the engine to change your sump.

Now I could be wrong but I'm sure there is a way around it. To be honest I've seen a couple of people try repair sumps and it would still be weeping a small bit now I'm sure you could be lucky and get a good job done also. But let us know how it turns out

RustyNut

burke027 wrote: »

Correct me if I'm wrong do a lot of work on Mercs and can't fully remember the set up But it's the v6 engine yea. If I right don't you just let off the steering rack I fairly sure you don't take out the engine to change your sump.

Now I could be wrong but I'm sure there is a way around it. To be honest I've seen a couple of people try repair sumps and it would still be weeping a small bit now I'm sure you could be lucky and get a good job done also. But let us know how it turns out

No unfortunately it the straight 6 and there is no way to get it off from underneath.

Mech1 wrote: »

You can come back and thank me again when you realise just how successful your repair was, I bet it will be good as new, and thats without even seeing the job!

Well Mech1 sir I owe you a pint.

The crack is on the very front left corner of the sump,about 6 cm long but only all the way through in a tiny spot at the bottom.

I left it up on axel stands draining over night and applied a little heat around the crack to help it drain. I cleaned the outside with neat power washer detergent and then went at it with break cleaner and a tooth brush untill it was as clean as I could get it and roughened the surface with a file.

I mixed some of the quicksteel and tried it on a piece of scrap just to get a feel for it, you don't get much time to work it so need to be quick.So with another mix I applied it using fingers then forced it into the crack using a large plug socket on a long bar like a rolling pin then gave it 24 hours to cure.

Filed it with oil yesterday and gave it a 30 K test drive and another 80 this morning and still have a bone dry sump so it looks like a save so far.

My bangernomics yoke lives to see another mountain road, happy days.
:D:D

And all for the grand cost of €12.99 including the break cleaner.