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Novatec hub A171 - rear wheel play

  • 07-01-2014 10:14pm
    #1
    seve65
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 607 ✭✭✭


    I have a newish mavic open pro rear wheel (about 2500km) with novatec F172 hub. The wheel has developed quite a bit of play. I am used to Shimano cup&cone, and can not see an obvious way to adjust the play out. I think it has 4 internal cartridge bearings, allen key access on the drive side and spanner access to the caps on either side. Any ideas ? Many thanks.


Comments

  • #2
    Mechanic365
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 481 ✭✭Mechanic365


    seve65 wrote: »
    I have a newish mavic open pro rear wheel (about 2500km) with novatec F172 hub. The wheel has developed quite a bit of play. I am used to Shimano cup&cone, and can not see an obvious way to adjust the play out. I think it has 4 internal cartridge bearings, allen key access on the drive side and spanner access to the caps on either side. Any ideas ? Many thanks.

    The ball bearings may have seized and started cutting the axle. Either that or the caps are just loose. Does the wheel rotate freely and is the freewheel rough. Try tightening the caps. Its usually two 5mm allen keys or maybe a spanner on one side. If that fails just disassemble the axle and youre sure to find something


  • #3
    seve65
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 607 ✭✭✭seve65


    Mechanic365 wrote: »
    The ball bearings may have seized and started cutting the axle. Either that or the caps are just loose. Does the wheel rotate freely and is the freewheel rough. Try tightening the caps. Its usually two 5mm allen keys or maybe a spanner on one side. If that fails just disassemble the axle and youre sure to find something

    thanks, wheel rotates freely enough. Tightening the caps didnt do the trick. Only one side takes an allen key strangely enough. I didnt want to rush to disassemble in case I made it worse. The wheel is true enough; but can you get play if there is a big mixture of spoke tensions ?


  • #4
    Mechanic365
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 481 ✭✭Mechanic365


    seve65 wrote: »
    wheel is true enough; but can you get play if there is a big mixture of spoke tensions ?

    Unless the spokes were so loose that the rim could move about, no.

    Its an axle/bearing problem. Just slip out the axle and freehub assembly and inspect. Or bring it to a LBS


  • #5
    mp31
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 815 ✭✭✭mp31


    I have a similar problem with my rear hub (posted on another thread). Funny how Google didn't show me this thread during my original research.

    Anyway, what's the correct way to strip the hub? I'm confused as there appears to be three options:
    1. Use cone spanners on the two end caps and unscrew assuming a right hand thread
    2. A 5mm allen key on the non drive side end of the axle + cone spanner on the same side end cap
    3. A 5mm allen key on the non drive side of the axle + cone spanner on the end cap at the opposite side (drive side) of the axle?

    I tried option 2 and found it impossible to unscrew the non drive side end cap.

    Any advice would be very welcome.


  • #6
    seve65
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 607 ✭✭✭seve65


    funny that I just dismantled it yesterday, as planning to buy replacement freehub (original has grooves worn in the soft material across the splines (see other people with the same issue)) hence the clicking/grinding; plus the inside of the freehub is a bit of a mess I think). have been using new wheels for the past few months, want to bring my mavic open pro/novatec back to life for winter

    anyway unless i am going mad forgetful, for me it was allen key and cone spanner on the drive side.


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