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Buying a Lean, Mean Dual-Action Polishing Machine?

  • 01-01-2014 2:20pm
    #1
    Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭


    Hi folks,

    Was wondering if i could get any help off ye guys with regards to machine polishing?

    I've been looking at the DAS6 850w on Detailing Shed:


    http://www.detailingshed.com/machine-polishing/241-kestral-das6-power-dual-action-polisher.html


    I was wondering if anyone could fill me in with regards to what else I do (or don't) need to get this up and running (aside from a clean car and a polish to use, obvously).

    Can any polish be used with machines or are certain ones best avoided?


    Or is it a case that I can use any old polish and everything else I need is in the box ('plug and play', as they say)?


    Cheers, folks :)


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,088 ✭✭✭sean1141


    I know this is slightly less powerful than the one detailing shed have but it has everything you need for not a lot more cash

    http://www.cleancar.ie/kestreldas-6completekit.html

    I have the das6 myself and it is perfect for normal use.


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    sean1141 wrote: »
    I know this is slightly less powerful than the one detailing shed have but it has everything you need for not a lot more cash

    http://www.cleancar.ie/kestreldas-6completekit.html

    I have the das6 myself and it is perfect for normal use.


    Would that be strong enough for light scratch removal/paint correction?

    I've been told by a member here that the 850w version is really the only way to go with regards to the DAS6.

    But im not sure how different the two actually are (hence the thread).

    I do like that kit though. It seems to simplify the whole process quite a bit. if the less powerful one is as good (and im not sure if it is or not) i'd be strongly tempted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,088 ✭✭✭sean1141


    I have never used the more powerful one myself but have had great results with the original das6

    This is a 10 year old skoda with 150k on the clock
    DSC_0003_zps4b638e1f.jpg
    DSC_0001_zps171e40d4.jpg
    DSC_0002_zps5a81ce2f.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,907 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    The difference in the 2 D/A's is that the more powerful one will get the job done quicker and won't bog down when you apply pressure. I had the normal one and now I have the more powerful one and as far as usability goes, I just couldn't recommend the less powerful one over the more powerful one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,664 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    The difference in the 2 D/A's is that the more powerful one will get the job done quicker and won't bog down when you apply pressure. I had the normal one and now I have the more powerful one and as far as usability goes, I just couldn't recommend the less powerful one over the more powerful one.

    Same for me
    I had the 500watt one and upgraded to the 850
    No comparison.


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  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    sean1141 wrote: »
    I have never used the more powerful one myself but have had great results with the original das6

    This is a 10 year old skoda with 150k on the clock


    Meh. If that's all I can expect I don't think I'll bother me hole :(






    Only joking (of course!) :D

    Thanks to a lovely boardsie, I've been fixed up with getting a DAS6 Pro with a few bits and pieces. Just have to look forward to getting my hands on it now and rubbing it all over my body(work). :D

    Although do expect me to be back soon asking where the power button is on it and how do I use this exactly (although I promise to consult Youtube first, then ask here, so Im not wrecking everyone's heads too much).



    All I need to do now is figure out the snowfoam issue and I think I'm all set for cleaning the exterior of a car? Is there anything else I'm missing I wonder (as if there weren't already enough stages to cleaning a car!).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,088 ✭✭✭sean1141


    Basicly you need to

    wash
    detar
    clay
    wash and dry
    tape up trim
    machine polish#
    wax


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Ohhh... Tape up trim!?

    Off to youtube I go!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,088 ✭✭✭sean1141


    Just to stop the plastic trim around the windows/door handles/Mirror bases etc getting polish on them!


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    sean1141 wrote: »
    Just to stop the plastic trim around the windows/door handles/Mirror bases etc getting polish on them!


    When I was polishing the car the last time (my first time doing it) I polished everything except the glass...

    I presumed that was the way to go!?

    If you don't polish the handles, for example, will they not stand out a little as looking slightly dreary against the rest of the car? :confused:


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,088 ✭✭✭sean1141


    If your handles are colour coded polish away, I should have been more clear and said if they were un-painted. The same goes for the bump strips along the doors and bumpers if you have them.
    The machine polisher will do more harm to these un-painted bits than you will do hand polishing and they will start to turn white/gray.
    Taping will also stop your pads from getting ripped on the edges.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,907 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Before you wax the car, it's best to give it a wash after polishing in order to remove all the polishing oils. Otherwise the wax won't bond properly to the paint.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,778 ✭✭✭sebastianlieken


    Question - What should one do about edges?

    Say for example the edge of your bonnet (at the windscreen edge). Those edges polish down so much quicker and hence i'm worried about polishing through the paint. what precautions should you take here? tape on the edge - stay away from it until the end?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,935 ✭✭✭randy hickey


    You tape up all your panel edges with 3M 3434 low-tack waterproof tape mainly for the reason of protecting them ( but if done correctly, it can also prevent polish residue getting into where it shouldn't!)

    If, for some reason there are panel edges that can't be taped, you learn how to control your polisher and stay off them.

    But 3434 is definitely the way to go.

    http://www.3mdirect.co.uk/p-1374-3m-scotch-water-resistant-blue-masking-tape-19mm-x-50m-roll-07895.aspx


  • Posts: 14,266 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    So where would one go about getting that tape (except from their own site... which seems to operate out of the US)?

    Also, silly question.. but driving me mad, what does DAS6 stand for? DA, I'm guessing is Dual Action...?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,664 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    So where would one go about getting that tape (except from their own site... which seems to operate out of the US)?

    Also, silly question.. but driving me mad, what does DAS6 stand for? DA, I'm guessing is Dual Action...?

    Tape here >>> http://www.detailingshed.com/machine-polishing/192-3m-3434-tape.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,621 ✭✭✭Newtown90


    Finally getting around to buying one of these DA's... Missed out on the group buy as I was lacking in "hobby funds"..

    How have the guys who got them in the group but got on??

    The skoda looks very nice!


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