Detailing/Paint Restore - Where to begin? What to buy?

Zoney

So, I've been intending to do some detailing next week if the weather allows it - and with various gift vouchers/cash, a chance to spend some money (ideally halfords to use one4all vouchers, but amazon/elsewhere is an option too - can use the vouchers for regular house stuff).

I'd like to apply a polish to the car to hide swirls etc - the problem is that I think the effort would be wasted (esp the work to clay etc) without some touchups first. Was thinking of buying this Autoglym clay detailing kit.

Does anyone have suggestions what to work on first, or agree with the need to tackle these spots before doing a full clean/polish? So far my detailing has only gone as far as wash, wax and trim restore (I've just invested in some tar remover too as I recently picked up some obvious spots). What should I buy to do very minor fill, and layer on paint & top coat with a brush? I'm guessing metallic silver will be lighter after 8 years than the factory colour, but would it still make sense to just work with a Renault touch-up pack (05 facelift Laguna II). Working on this car is really partly for the fun and practice, as I may well be upgrading later next year.

I've the following options: (1) Scuffs on the roof, (2) scratches on the bonnet (not too visible with wax but you can feel them with fingernail), (3) significant nick/gouge at the boot lid, (4) nick in the rear door (this had rust - wax over seems to help after the last clean), (5) scratches on passenger door, and finally (6) scuff on bumper.

(1) Scuffs on the roof


(2) example of scratches on bonnet


(3) gouge at bootlid


(4) nick in rear door


(5)scratches on passenger door


roof_scuff.jpg
bonnet_scratches.jpg
boot_dent.jpg
reardoor_nick.jpg
passengerdoor_ding.jpg

Curran

Zoney wrote: »

I'm guessing metallic silver will be lighter after 8 years than the factory colour, but would it still make sense to just work with a Renault touch-up pack (05 facelift Laguna II).

Not necessarily. Contamination in the paintwork will likely mean that the colour is darker than factory. Modern paints dont fade like the older paints, and if they appear faded, thats down to the fact there there is lots of light swirling in the clear coat, which is affecting appearance. For something to look shiney, the surface needs to be perfectly flat, so that all the light reflects uniformly in the same direction. Swirls mean lots of microscopic peaks and trough, causing light to bounce and scatter in differing directions and thus causing contrast, or a dulling appearance.



Various defects in the paintwork....if you can imagine light refecting on swirls, it cause light to bounce every direction


Waxing helps create a flatter surface, and thus more light in the same direction, giving the shinier appearance


Unfortunately all of the defects aren't easy fixes. You certainly wont be able to resolve them without spending quite a bit...and then you'd have to weigh up if its worth putting the money into the car, if you are upgrading it anyways - will you re-gain your money spent...very unlikely.

Defects in images 1 & 2 would need machine correction, and in picture 2, you'd only be able to improve the appearance. Hand polishing will help hide them and but will have no permanent effect.
Defect 3; there's not a whole lot you can do, you can see the paint is cracking and starting to peel....it's going to need professional attention (panel beating, filling and re-paint)
Defect 4; treat for rust and then fill with a touch up kit...will take the nasty look from it.
Defect 5; paintless dent removal, and then will need painting...touch up might do a decent job.

What I think you are better spending your time on now, is practicing the prepartion and protection processes, and being comfortable with all the steps from start to finish. The wash procoess, de-ironising, de-tar'ing, claying, hand polishing, etc, and what effect certain products have on the ability to hide certain defects. As you know waxes go a certain way to helping to hide defects, but certain ones do a much better job at doing this. For example Bilt Hamber Auto Balm does an amazing job at hiding, but the issue with it, is that its not very durable. Autoglym's Super Resin Polish combo'd with Extra Gloss Protection does a very good job, lasts longer and looks good on silvers.
The difference a good decontamination and a light hand polish will give very impressive results, as contamination also cause light scatter; removing it improves the surface.

Zoney

Thanks for the advice & good explanation. A couple of months back I was thinking of getting this work properly done, but that was when I was thinking of keeping the car for 3 yrs plus. So more recently I'd been wondering instead whether to attempt a diy touchup rather than leave as is. Sounds like the best plan is just to keep it well and keep learning about paint care on this car. Plus the car looks well (imo) overall, when you don't have this fault list here!

Btw, proud to say none of those were added by us even though this is our first car. However, it does give breathing room not to have something with perfect paint for now!

Is there any temporary work would be good to do to the boot lid area for now?

Zoney

Well, used one4all voucher and got the clay kit and complete bodycare (shampoo, extra gloss protection and an extra bottle of resin polish). I think I'm all set, except I've nothing for de-iron, nor do I know much about that. Might do a touchup on the doors just to help hide, wouldn't be perfect (slight dent in front door) but it'd look better. Happy enough to hide bonnet and roof for now too. That really leaves the boot as the nastiest patch, but at least you only see when round the back.

dredg

Zoney wrote: »

Well, used one4all voucher and got the clay kit and complete bodycare (shampoo, extra gloss protection and an extra bottle of resin polish). I think I'm all set, except I've nothing for de-iron, nor do I know much about that. Might do a touchup on the doors just to help hide, wouldn't be perfect (slight dent in front door) but it'd look better. Happy enough to hide bonnet and roof for now too. That really leaves the boot as the nastiest patch, but at least you only see when round the back.

http://www.detailingshed.com/test-category/11-iron-cleanse-detailing-deironiser-fallout-remover-car-wash-care-auto.html

I like orchard products quite a lot and the iron remover is excellent - spray on, give it 5 minutes and hose it off. It does smell like death though.

Zoney

Got the roof & bonnet clayed, polished & sealed today. I was slow to get the hang of it, didn't want to rush. Whole 3 hrs including wash & detar. Ideally would have started first thing rather than after lunchtime. Still, didn't rain & happy with the results.

Must do the deiron next time. I guess the slight rust tinge picked up by clay was due to not doing this? Clay didn't really pick up much dirt in general though, was surprised. It did feel super smooth after though.

MetzgerMeister

The rust tinge is actually tar that has been removed by the clay. It's worth knowing that claying often only cuts the head off the bonded contaminants and a product like Iron Cleanse will remove the contaminants out of the paint fully.

Zoney

I did notice that alright, even with a smooth surface there was the occasional speck still visible. Photos to follow shortly - didn't take many in progress as I was fighting time for light and dryness (must have been mad doing it up in Mayo in midwinter, but wanted to use the new stuff right away!)

Alas, didn't quite get 100% completion, was too late to apply extra gloss protection on the bumpers by the time they were clayed and polished (last part of the car to be done).

Thanks for all the feedback! Shine off the car is something else and you'd have to look up close to see the defects now.

Zoney

Some photos after the work the next day. That area of the roof and bonnet for comparison, car from the back, and from the front after the drive down from Mayo to Limerick. Some specks of soot already

Roof scuff isn't visible except up close.


Scratches on the bonnet can still be seen, but not as visible.


Any ideas where to get a Renault Laguna II facelift rear letter G? Strangely other badges online, no problem, but this one eludes me.


Nice shine from the corners, roof and doors here.


Looking forward to washing her again Still haven't got the beading down - maybe didn't buff enough? Or should I add polish on top of the EGP after next wash?

bonnet_polished.jpg
roof_polished.jpg
rear_polished.jpg
side_polished.jpg

MetzgerMeister

Polish doesn't give beading after a day or 2 and it doesn't provide protection either. By applying polish on top of EGP/wax you are undoing all the work you did by applying EGP.

Zoney

Grand, won't add anything on top of the EGP so. As well as the shine, it is amazing how smooth the paintwork is now, not a hint of any grooves where the scratches on the bonnet are.

MetzgerMeister

If you want a really good, durable top coat, the best thing you can do is use Jetseal 109 followed by Collinite 845.

Zoney

Sorry to drag this thread up again, but in case anyone's interested, I'm really happy at how the work is holding up! Just a wash today, dried then buffed very lightly with a very soft polishing cloth:





Photos don't even show off the full shine as it really appears!

Did notice that beading was very poor before this wash - will be watching to see if it's restored a bit again even after serious rain.

Lovely and easy to wash still too!

front_shiny.jpg
roof_drops.jpg