Electrical Hook-up Leads for EU (full set)

This combination should cover you to plug into most of Europe.
A screwdriver ought to get you the rest of the way.
The lively brown bear danced under the blue neutral sky (Uk + Éire rules).

13A to 16A

Shuko to 16A
There are some variations of shuko plugs and they're usually sealed. This is the most popular (roundy) one and has a wired earth.

16A Wall Socket




16A Splitter

16A leads;
1 x 15metre Artic 1.5mm 3-core, 1 x 7metre Artic 2.5mm 3-core.

16A to 13A
This isn't necessary it's just handy. It's just a more portable camper, given that there's 13A sockets inside the van already usually.

Line Test

Supply Tester
A multimeter can do the same job.

For any inclined to save a good few bob and wire these yourselves just remember that power goes in through the pins (plugs) and comes from the holes (sockets).

Reason being you can electrocute yourself from pins but not if they are plugged in.
You can't electrocute yourself from a live socket if your fingers don't fit in.
...no excuses for wiring dodgy splitters!


If running inverters an earth spike ought to be installed when away from shore power otherwise your on-board MCBO won't detect a leak and won't trip in the event of an earth fault.

Correction:
MCBO's don't exist I meant RCBO (Earth leakage and overload protective breaker)

odds_on

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Correction:
MCBO's don't exist I meant RCBO (Earth leakage and overload protective breaker)

What and where is one likely to find the RCBO?

Electrical wholesaler.

Eg.
See page 192 here in Switchgear & Distribution

from Eurosales

or

Ebay
http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=rcbo&_sacat=0&_from=R40

odds_on

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Electrical wholesaler.

Eg.
See page 192 here in Switchgear & Distribution

from Eurosales

or

Ebay
http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=rcbo&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Sorry, I meant on the camper

Ah, well, I've an RCD installed directly behind the hook-up point in the van interior. It's best have this it as close to the source as possible to reduce the risk of undetected upstream faults. The MCBO ideally would be on the inverter output.
It's standard practice to have to protect yourself from your inverter after purchase, ie. splicing the DC +ive input with a Maxi-blade fuse or DC MCB circuit breaker, and running the AC out through a MCBO.
Some double up on the AC breaker functionality to save on wiring and sockets by using 240v changeover relays that switch between shore power and inverter.
My inverter is just for emergencies, I've enough gubbins to get anywhere between 1v - 24v on DC regulators...covers most scenarios.

I've no idea where coach-builds would put them or even if they would have them. RCD's would be more common leaving earth fault detection up to the supply source. The problem with that arrangement is it won't protect you from an isolated inverter fault or you may not always have access to the supply trips.

Might be in the service manual?

Of course without the potential difference provided by an earth spike the RCBO can't detect an earth fault either. TBH I've never seen anyone use an earthing spike for a camper it's just something I thought of recently. It'd be common and recommended practice for running a gene. though and there should be an RCBO or similar on the gene.
There's relatively low risk on weekender campers as usually the lack of batteries curtail large inverter reliance.
Better looking at it than looking for it and all that....

odds_on

I use a 400w invert for charging my laptop as it requires some 19 or 21 volts (can't remember which!) to run it. I often wondered if it should have a proper earth but there was no info with the inverter.

On another theme, I have a 12 volt TV, which is powered by a 230 v supply and a converter to 12 volts. I was wondering if it would be safe to cut out the converter and just connect the TV to, say the cigarette light socket or directly to the leisure battery? I was thinking that although they are 12 v batteries, there is 14 v in them and that may damage the TV set?

Any thoughts on that, Sir?

Sir Liamalot

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Some double up on the AC breaker functionality to save on wiring and sockets by using 240v changeover relays that switch between shore power and inverter.

Yet another SmartGauge Link



Don't mind the galvanic isolator that's just really a device for steel hulled ships in salt water.

odds_on

Some boat if it's got a washing machine and an immersion heater!!!

odds_on

odds_on wrote: »

I use a 400w invert for charging my laptop as it requires some 19 or 21 volts (can't remember which!) to run it. I often wondered if it should have a proper earth but there was no info with the inverter.

[EDITed:] Not if it's double insulated have a look at the AC power brick and you may find a plastic earth pin.
If the earth is wired then it ought to be continued through to a protective device and eventually earthed through to a rod, or a domestic DB or EHU protection.

Single insulated inverters usually have a wing nut earthing point near the DC lead connections. I've linked the AC earth and DC ground on mine as a lazy earth bond (one of a few).
A 400w inverter is probably double insulated so it would not be required as long as it only runs double insulated devices. I couldn't tell you if it's super-safe to run single insulated devices without having a look.

You could run the laptop on a genuine manufacturer recommended DC regulator (car charger) for a lot less battery power though.
I make ~ a 33% saving with a DC power supply and the right cable compared to an 80% efficient MSW inverter.
I have yet to see a MSW inverter bite the dust trying to run a switch-mode power supply but I expect there may be an issue over time.

odds_on wrote: »

On another theme, I have a 12 volt TV, which is powered by a 230 v supply and a converter to 12 volts. I was wondering if it would be safe to cut out the converter and just connect the TV to, say the cigarette light socket or directly to the leisure battery? I was thinking that although they are 12 v batteries, there is 14 v in them and that may damage the TV set?

Yeah you need a 12v regulator with a 10.5v > 16v input tolerance Amperor do a high-end range
You'll find similar cheaper elsewhere if you have a look around.
As long as the regulator's rated output is higher than the device peak consumption in watts or amps @12v (should be written on the device, usually near the power point or on the power supply) and can handle the variable battery voltage states it's all good.

Be aware most cheap car chargers are buck regulators designed around a running engine (they only operate above 12.0v). What you want is a buck/boost regulator.

I tend to verify any cheapy chineese kit with a DMM before plugging in just to be safe. More often than not I exchange the fuses for more device appropriate fast blows too.

odds_on

odds_on wrote: »

Some boat if it's got a washing machine and an immersion heater!!!

It's a narrowboat, a live-in barge.

Sir Liamalot

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

[EDITed:] Not if it's double insulated have a look at the AC power brick and you may may find a plastic earth pin.
If the earth is wired then it ought to be continued through to a protective device and eventually earthed through to a rod, or a domestic DB or EHU protection.

Hrmm....just thinking that switch mode power supplies sometimes use the earth for EMI/RFI filtering.

I'll have to get back to you on what an ideal scenario is.

The MCBO is recommended for electrical safety but may trip if it's too sensitive under normal operating conditions.

Wikipaedia wrote:

Due to regulations concerning EMI/RFI radiation, many SMPS contain EMI/RFI filtering at the input stage before the bridge rectifier consisting of capacitors and inductors. Two capacitors are connected in series with the Live and Neutral rails with the Earth connection in between the two capacitors. This forms a capacitive divider that energizes the common rail at half mains voltage. Its high impedance current source can provide a tingling or a 'bite' to the operator or can be exploited to light an Earth Fault LED. However, this current may cause nuisance tripping on the most sensitive residual-current devices.

Sir Liamalot

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

If running inverters an earth spike ought to be installed when away from shore power otherwise your on-board RCBO won't detect a leak and won't trip in the event of an earth fault.

Eating my own words :pac: o clock

The earth spike is not required but an RCD is recommended if hard-wiring through to separate socket outlets from the inverter.

Here's the long-winded version

Anyone fancy the super-long-winded version?

I'm gonna go with tying the inverter earth (wing nut connection) to the battery negative (chassis & mains earth bond), put an RCBO on the output and move on. :pac: