Front Derailleur Not Working

godtabh

Couldn't shift down from the big cog this morning. Cable seems slack. Is it just a case to tightening with the barrel and/or the derailleur itself?

Cee-Jay-Cee

Basically yes, clamp the cable end with pliers, loosen the retaining allen nut and pull the cable tight (so that there is no slack) and retighten the nut, basically.

WillyFXP

Sounds like the deraileur pivot has stuck/seized. If the cable is slack then it's not a cable issue. Can you push the deraileur in by hand?

lescol

The front derailleur drops down by the action of the spring, the cable tightening shifts it up to the big ring. First thing to try is a clean up of the derailleur mechanism.

Brian?

It isn't a shimano Sora by any chance?

Remove the cable completely, if it swings back and forth it your hand with zero tension then it's dead. I killed one last year. There is a small metal piece the spring pushes against to provide the necessary tension, it breaks on Sora front mechs quite commonly.

seven stars

Funny that, my front derailleur seized up this week as well. I had to work it with WD40 and chain lube to get it going again. It's a reasonably new 105. Did they put some special derailer-sticking-gunk on the roads or something?

godtabh

Can't shift it be hand. Will try and give it a good clean tonight.

When you shift the gears there is a loud click but only minor movement in the derailleur.

Its a 105 group set with about 7500km on it

bcmf

godtabh wrote: »

Can't shift it be hand. Will try and give it a good clean tonight.

When you shift the gears there is a loud click but only minor movement in the derailleur.

Its a 105 group set with about 7500km on it

Mine Veloce seized with exactly the same symptoms. Got a little bit extra with a good wash and lube but hard to change it as didn't wanna risk snapping the shift lever.

godtabh

is it the spring i should be cleaning?

bcmf

All moving points. Pivots and springs

Plastik

Tis the season for it. I had similar problems with a 105 FD over the course of last weekend and after a few failed attempts at fixing I dropped it to the LBS and its fine again. FD's are like my kryptonite.

godtabh

It may have to be dropped into the LBS but i'll havr a go myself this evening.

I assume its ok to cycle as long as I don't need the small cog?

mirrormatrix

It's absolutely fine to cycle with.

Do you need the small ring? I only ask because I have a 2303 front derailleur that wont shift into the small ring (I have a triple) for well over a year now. I don't use the small ring, so it's not an issue for me, but I can free it up for a few weeks when I need it with plenty of lube and a lot of pushing/pulling the derailleur to loosen it.

If i'm really stuck on a hill I just unclip and physically kick it into the granny ring while cycling

Pigeon Reaper

I had the same problem last winter. It looked like road grit got into the spring and pivots preventing it moving. I took off the derailleur cleaned it and soaked it in oil. It still works perfectly now.

joxerjohn

The loud click is the tension in the cable being released. The FD should then move in towards the frame taking the chain onto your small chainring. So something is stopping or obstructing this in your case. This could be the limit screw, which is unlikely and is more likely to be that the mechanism is seized up due to picking up grit/crap off the roads this time of year.

I would take the FD off the bike completely and give it a good cleaning, a soak in some diesel overnight should do the trick, then refit it and see if the problem has been resolved. There was a very good thread on here a few month back about re setting your FD which you could also consult.

godtabh

Not sure if I'd be confiedent taking it off and putting it back on! I'll take WD40 and a toothbrush to it tonight.

I've been going around in the big ring for weeks now as I havent been doing much climbing lately. Only tried to down shift yesterday for the first time in weeks in the wind of yesterday and only noticed it now. If I cant fix it I'll bring it to the LBS on Wednesday

instinct

I have issues with my 105 FD the odd time. Especially if the bike has not been ridden for a while.

Release the cable from the FD. Let the chain slack by taking it off the big ring and cassette then work the FD by hand. It should free up and work as normal.

godtabh

Thanks lads for the advice.

joxerjohn

Here's the link to the earlier thread on FD adjustment I mentioned.

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056953178

You shouldn't have too much trouble removing and re fitting, the worst that can happen is that you will have to go the LBS if it all goes tits up.

The WD 40 is a good penetrating fluid but it is not a lubricant, it's like petrol really so if you use it be sure to use some proper lubricating oil afterward on the spring and the hinges.

Type 17

I used to work in a LBS, and the amount of FDs coming in seized every winter is epic - you've got to clean and lube the FD every few weeks if you ride in all weathers without a full rear mudguard.

Important point: if you have Shimano road bike brake lever/shifters on your handlebars and you're finding the FD (left) one very stiff, you need to lube your FD now, before you break your (very expensive to replace) FD shifter - quite a common issue, and some of these brake/shifter units run to over €200 to replace...

godtabh

Lads again cheers for the help.

Had it sorted in 10 minutes. . A good dose of WD40, released the cable and wiggled it for a few minutes.

I use Muck Off products for cleaning, degreasing and lubricating/finishing. I think I put a small hole in the ozone this evening between WD40 and Muck Off!

Must keep an eye on it now. And maybe use the small cog from time to time!

Now I can look forward to a couple of hours in the wind!

Muckers

Winter is the time of year for the small cog anyway. Fast cadence and lower gears to give the leg muscles a rest after a hard season of long climbs and big ring.

Pinch Flat

godtabh wrote: »

Lads again cheers for the help.

Had it sorted in 10 minutes. . A good dose of WD40, released the cable and wiggled it for a few minutes.

I use Muck Off products for cleaning, degreasing and lubricating/finishing. I think I put a small hole in the ozone this evening between WD40 and Muck Off!

Must keep an eye on it now. And maybe use the small cog from time to time!

Now I can look forward to a couple of hours in the wind!

I had a FD seize over one winter, so learned my lesson. I clean the FD on my commuter weekly with muc-off, then re lube moving parts on springs and pivots as well. Full length crud mud guards also protect from excess splashing. Seems to keep me going anyway!

godtabh

I was out on it this morning and had no problems. I'll just have to use the all gear ranges more often

smacl

godtabh wrote: »

I was out on it this morning and had no problems. I'll just have to use the all gear ranges more often

Fair play. I stuck the head outside the door, saw a green bin sailing up the lane under its own steam, and decided against it.

godtabh

wind speed this morning between 5-7 was meant to be around 25kph picking up with stronger gusts later on. Was meant to leave at 5:30 ended up leaving at 6:30 but still missed a fair bit

cdaly_

Type 17 wrote: »

I used to work in a LBS, and the amount of FDs coming in seized every winter is epic - you've got to clean and lube the FD every few weeks if you ride in all weathers without a full rear mudguard.

Pinch Flat wrote: »

I had a FD seize over one winter, so learned my lesson. I clean the FD on my commuter weekly with muc-off, then re lube moving parts on springs and pivots as well. Full length crud mud guards also protect from excess splashing. Seems to keep me going anyway!

Before I had full mudguards (which stay on year round), I made up a front mech mudguard from a plastic water bottle. It bolts on at the braze-on mount and keeps my mech clean. I only need to lube it occasionally and it pretty much stays clean...


Yes, it's mucky. Goes to show that it's working well...