1) Heads and Resistances 2) Longest lasting Mini Head

OcocO

1) Could anyone tell me exactly what difference the resistance of a head makes?
There seem to be a range of heads for any of the dozens of clearomisers that fit my battery. Typically they seem to go from about 1.7ohms to 2.8ohms.

I'm told that lower resistances (i.e. at the 1.7ish end) are easier on the battery and also produce more of a kick. Why, then, would people use the higher resistances? Are they necessary for the heavier (more syrupy) liquids?

Mustn't there be a trade-off between the advantages and limitations (whatever they are) of the lower resistance heads, and the converse advantages and limitations of the higher ones?

2) My battery is 14mm in diameter and has a standard 510 fitting, so I am also hoping to benefit from your experience to find the clearomiser that takes the longest lasting heads. Can I do any better for a 14mm clearomiser than the Aspire Mini Viva Nova? Longevity of head is my priority so I'd be choosing the resistance of head that promotes that.

Thank you, in advance, to anyone who can illuminate these issues for me.

Celly Smunt

I woupdnt necessarily say the lower the resistance the bigger the kick.Basically the lower the resistance the quicker the coil will heat up.Some people like short puffs,some people (like me) prefer long long puffs with tonnes of vapor.I find myself when I use lower resistance heads I burn them out too quickly (burnt taste), my sweet spot on VW would be 1.8-2.0 and no lower.Bear in mind however I havent used clearos for a long long time.

As far longer lasting heads, they're all much of a muchness.My tip would be to look into rebuilding your own and save yourself a tonne of money.

OcocO

Celly Smunt wrote: »

As far longer lasting heads, they're all much of a muchness.My tip would be to look into rebuilding your own and save yourself a tonne of money.

I'm actually just the maintenance man. It's my father who uses the clearomisers. I've looked at a couple of vids on rebuilding and, once you've got the hang of it, it doesn't look too time consuming. I'm already spending about as much time tending to his clearomisers as I cheerfully can though so, until I have a little less on my plate, I'll stick with replacement heads.

Thank you for the faster-heating / faster-burnout connection: that's just the sort of info I'm trying to piece together.

Btw, what's a VW (other than a make of car)?

Pique

VW is variable wattage, like an ego twist or a KMAX.

Personally since I've managed to successfully build a nano coil at 1.5 or so ohms, my battery lasts much longer and the coil has lasted easily as long as the ready made ones.

As for clearos, try the Protank mini or Aspire BDC (but they are new and dual coil so a very big pain to rebuild yourself, plus the coils are pretty hit and miss if they work or not.) whereas all protank heads fit all protanks.

The aspire has a few variations and I'm on my phone so check the size before you buy.

Hal1

VW = variable wattage, VV = variable voltage. I'm using my itaste vv/vw at the moment. It lets you switch between vw / vv. It has a hit counter and shows you the ohms .

Gryzor

How long they last is as much upto the type of juice than anything. Vaping sugary or natural tobacco's can gunk up a coil in a couple of days or less, depending on how much you're vaping

OcocO

Gryzor wrote: »

How long they last is as much upto the type of juice than anything. Vaping sugary or natural tobacco's can gunk up a coil in a couple of days or less, depending on how much you're vaping

I'm beginning to realise that gunk is more often responsible for a "dead" head then it actually having burned out.

Gryzor

Yeah, I'm coming up on three years vaping, and I'm not sure I've ever had a coil burn out as such, maybe I'm not doing it right :eek:

OcocO

Gryzor wrote: »

Yeah, I'm coming up on three years vaping, and I'm not sure I've ever had a coil burn out as such, maybe I'm not doing it right :eek: