Dog hunting too far ahead

Jimy1971

Hi lads,
I've been training my 10 month old lab for the past few months and she was flying it. Got her first pheasant retrieve on the 1st of November and first duck a couple of nights after. When I'm hunting her and she starts to go on too far, I usually pip her back with the whistle. Last couple of times I've been out she's not listening to me at all. She's going on a mile ahead and not coming back when I blow the whistle. Made a mistake this morning and used an e collar on her, set too high. She was very subdued and was hardly retrieving for me. I've gone back to how I got her to retrieve when she was younger, kneeling and clapping to get her to come in to me. She's coming back to herself slowly and I think I'll give all training a break for a while with her and build her confidence back up. Any advice as to how I will go about stopping her going too far ahead of me?

charlie10

dont see an issue with e collars but when used correctly can be effective get e-pointer to help u he knows his stuff

jimf

take off that collar and forget about it

bring your dog out no gun just get it back hunting again for you

its now hunting for itself that happens when they start getting their first retrieves

out in an open field where you can watch closely any sign of a move off hard on the whistle if the dog breaks back on the lead and bring it back to where you blew the whistle do this couple of times on each outing maybe twice a day

I have had great success with a long clothes line attached as well if the reaction to the whistle isn't instant a pull on the line usually gets the message across fairly fast this I would say is nothing more than young enthusiasm

Glenbulldog

I had the same problem myself with my pointer,he was 4 when I got him stubborn as a mule in the field ( grand at home)when we were hunting he was all out for himself ,he would be 3or4 fields ahead of me I bought e- collar it took a month using it starting with lowest setting and working up to what grabbed his attention ,now he's no problem on the whistle 1 pip stops,3 pips comes back everytime,I can honestly say without the collar I couldn't of handled him,maybe you should use the tone on the collar instead of the zap anyway best of luck I know how frustrating this problem is .

EPointer=Birdss

Jimy1971 wrote: »

Hi lads,
I've been training my 10 month old lab for the past few months and she was flying it. Got her first pheasant retrieve on the 1st of November and first duck a couple of nights after. When I'm hunting her and she starts to go on too far, I usually pip her back with the whistle. Last couple of times I've been out she's not listening to me at all. She's going on a mile ahead and not coming back when I blow the whistle. Made a mistake this morning and used an e collar on her, set too high. She was very subdued and was hardly retrieving for me. I've gone back to how I got her to retrieve when she was younger, kneeling and clapping to get her to come in to me. She's coming back to herself slowly and I think I'll give all training a break for a while with her and build her confidence back up. Any advice as to how I will go about stopping her going too far ahead of me?

A collar is worthless unless a dog is conditioned to it. Shocking a dog out of the blue is like kicking it up the hole for no reason.
Back to basics I think & get her confidence back up.
A long lead & teaching her to drop on the whistle will give you control & stop her going out of range. She will soon learn her distance

jimf

EPointer=Birdss wrote: »

A collar is worthless unless a dog is conditioned to it. Shocking a dog out of the blue is like kicking it up the hole for no reason.
Back to basics I think & get her confidence back up.
A long lead & teaching her to drop on the whistle will give you control & stop her going out of range. She will soon learn her distance

would have to agree 100% its like giving a dog a kick in the arse when they come back from running away

they then think they got the kick in the arse for coming back confusion or what

EPointer=Birdss

jimf wrote: »

would have to agree 100% its like giving a dog a kick in the arse when they come back from running away

they then think they got the kick in the arse for coming back confusion or what

Condition a dog to a collar properly in the yard & you have a long lead without the tangles by means of a beep.
I've had soft dogs I wouldn't put one near & hard ones that would bear it.
All depends on the dog, level of training, age, disposiion etc.

TriggerPL

Back to the basics , are you hunting her with other dogs or on her own if you can't stop her a distance , stop hunting her till your happy with her ,

How old is she , an e collar should be last resort , if it's a young dog first season then don't panic , it all about getting basic right , I only shot 4 birds in January of my labs season .

U could also try hunting her like a spaniel , teach he to quater that will reduce the distance

Jimy1971

TriggerPL wrote: »

Back to the basics , are you hunting her with other dogs or on her own if you can't stop her a distance , stop hunting her till your happy with her ,

How old is she , an e collar should be last resort , if it's a young dog first season then don't panic , it all about getting basic right , I only shot 4 birds in January of my labs season .

U could also try hunting her like a spaniel , teach he to quater that will reduce the distance

She's only 10 months old lad and I've been working her with my springer.

TriggerPL

Jimy1971 wrote: »

She's only 10 months old lad and I've been working her with my springer.

Right for the rest of season work her on her own , ul eliminate the competition,

What you have is a dog competing instead of working together and when working 2 dogs you can't focus on what the man task is

Jimy1971

TriggerPL wrote: »

Right for the rest of season work her on her own , ul eliminate the competition,

What you have is a dog competing instead of working together and when working 2 dogs you can't focus on what the man task is

Cheers mate,she's the first dog I've trained myself so rushed things

TriggerPL

Jimy1971 wrote: »

Cheers mate,she's the first dog I've trained myself so rushed things

No prob bud just mix it up a bit of rough shooting and duck flighting , and don't over do it better to shoot one duck retrieve it proper then to shoot 10 and have the dog all over the place .

I've often went out and seen some of the best flighting of my life and only shot 2 ducks and retrieved them perfect

dodderangler

TriggerPL wrote: »

I've often went out and seen some of the best flighting of my life and only shot 2 ducks and retrieved them perfect

Need t get that gun of yours straightened

TriggerPL

dodderangler wrote: »

Need t get that gun of yours straightened

Just need to bring more than 2 cartridges with me from now on buddy

dodderangler

TriggerPL wrote: »

Just need to bring more than 2 cartridges with me from now on buddy

Ha nice reply
I like it. You back from oz yet

TriggerPL

Back the 13th dec bud , new browning maxis waiting in Lakeland for me

dodderangler

TriggerPL wrote: »

Back the 13th dec bud , new browning maxis waiting in Lakeland for me

Never figured you for semi auto kinda guy.

TriggerPL

dodderangler wrote: »

Never figured you for semi auto kinda guy.

Just testing waters bud never liked them but took a liking to the maxus

dodderangler

TriggerPL wrote: »

Just testing waters bud never liked them but took a liking to the maxus

well remember if you miss twice don't take a third shot its not sporting imo

deeksofdoom

Your just not being consistent with the dog, if it makes a mistake you get out there and correct it.

In training if i doesn't return you get out and correct the dog, same if your shooting you have to do the same thing, you have to be consistent with your commands whatever the situation.

If the dog is on the scent of a bird or some other critter there's no point, blowing a recall if there's a good chance the dog is going to disobey you.

But you really need to get back to basics now.

TriggerPL

dodderangler wrote: »

well remember if you miss twice don't take a third shot its not sporting imo

What about the other 2 cartridges I've left after them three ! I'm so confused now !

fiestaman

deeksofdoom wrote: »

Your just not being consistent with the dog, if it makes a mistake you get out there and correct it.

In training if i doesn't return you get out and correct the dog, same if your shooting you have to do the same thing, you have to be consistent with your commands whatever the

If the dog is on the scent of a bird or some other critter there's no point, blowing a recall if there's a good chance the dog is going to disobey you.

But you really need to get back to basics now.

I second this as ive seen it first hand by a very good spaniel trainer. If the basics were there then the dog knows the story so back to basics now and if you give a stop or return whistle and that dog ignores you, get out and let the dog know your the boss. Leave him sit after the correction and walk back to where you blew the whistle and then call him back to you. Praise and on then again, he goes out of range you pip pip he ignores then tear out again and scold him again. Should get message quickley if done right. You need to be tough and if he ignores a command correct him straight away, no leeway.

cavan shooter

you dont need an e collar, leave the gun at home and go for a walk with her and as she hunts when she hits the 30 yards or so pip the whistle and call her back and put her into cover. If she refuses to return call her pip the whistle and walk the other way, I would be surprised if she doesnt come back to you as you are walking away. Next choise is a good old fashioned length of check cord.