Low battery warning

creedp

This morning the low battery warning came on on my 08 s-max. (It came on a couple of months ago as well but that was after I left the radio on for a number of hours while washing care inside and out. Car started OK and I didn't notice any issue since) Car started OK this morning as well but now that winter is aproaching with a vengenance I want to check if the battery requires replacing.

I assume I need a volmeter to check the batter myself - what a would a decent one of these guys set me back? Would I be better off just going to a motor factor for it to be checked? Anyone know if its straightforward to change the battery in the s-max? It seem to be hidden under a plastic cover and located underneath the base of the windscreen.

Apologies for all the questions but I'm going to have to try and sort this out quickly as the other half drives the car and if it doesn't start .........!! Thanks.

biko

You can get a voltage meter in any factors. Halfords has a multimeter for 75 and a dedicated car battery tester for 20.
http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_769769_langId_-1_categoryId_212387

About the battery change, you need to remove the air filter box too.
http://www.justanswer.com/uk-ford/38w8h-remove-battery-ford-s-max.html

creedp

biko wrote: »

You can get a voltage meter in any factors. Halfords has a multimeter for 75 and a dedicated car battery tester for 20.
http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_769769_langId_-1_categoryId_212387

About the battery change, you need to remove the air filter box too.
http://www.justanswer.com/uk-ford/38w8h-remove-battery-ford-s-max.html

Thanks very much for info on both counts. As always nothing is straightforward!

visual

Dont buy the halfords over priced battery tester
As its just a volt meter.

If your looking for cheapest volt meter ebay sells cheap one that plugs in to cig socket in car for a few euro.

The best to buy would be a cheap multimeter either online or from hardware maplins etc for around 20 euro. Its a handy tool to have one that can read at least 10amp but 20amp would be better. Multimeter reads DC and AC voltage reads resistance and continuity. Current for parasitic battery draw. Don't need an expensive one. Cheap brand will suit work on car.

While volt meters are handy tool to have they can only give you indication of battery.

A fully charged batter with no load left sit for 24 hrs at room temp should read 12.6 volts

But its very rare we have the chance to disconnect battery from car charge it and then test it 24hrs later.

What most battery suppliers have is real battery tester that checks the crank amperage of battery against its rating. A lot will do this for free with the hope of selling you new battery.
Local motor factors or halfords should be able to test battery.

PS should have said this first your cars onboard computer has already told you battery is low voltage for starting and unless your leaving lights on with engine off or radio playing then the battery is weak and with cold will find it harder to hold charge when not in use.

creedp

visual wrote: »

Dont buy the halfords over priced battery tester
As its just a volt meter.

If your looking for cheapest volt meter ebay sells cheap one that plugs in to cig socket in car for a few euro.

The best to buy would be a cheap multimeter either online or from hardware maplins etc for around 20 euro. Its a handy tool to have one that can read at least 10amp but 20amp would be better. Multimeter reads DC and AC voltage reads resistance and continuity. Current for parasitic battery draw. Don't need an expensive one. Cheap brand will suit work on car.

While volt meters are handy tool to have they can only give you indication of battery.

A fully charged batter with no load left sit for 24 hrs at room temp should read 12.6 volts

But its very rare we have the chance to disconnect battery from car charge it and then test it 24hrs later.

What most battery suppliers have is real battery tester that checks the crank amperage of battery against its rating. A lot will do this for free with the hope of selling you new battery.
Local motor factors or halfords should be able to test battery.

PS should have said this first your cars onboard computer has already told you battery is low voltage for starting and unless your leaving lights on with engine off or radio playing then the battery is weak and with cold will find it harder to hold charge when not in use.

Thanks for advice.. may drop into Maplins to see their multimeter .. might be handy to have, especially when my car will only be older in the years ahead! The battery location is a pain though as difficult to gain access even to test it. Why do car manufacturers do this?

Agree with your point re car computer indicating a weak battery. Funny though that the last time I saw this message was nearly 3 months ago .. would have thought the problem would have shown up before now.

visual

Multimeter is always handy to have worth getting.


This is more of a toy but reads voltage
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321158349839

Its only 2.99 but it will take weeks to arrive. Could keep it in glove box.


A good few car makers stuff the battery under window. I use to think it was to make space for bigger engines in that model but I'm not so sure.
It might be some safty reason to move it away from crumple zone at front. Either way its just dam awkward.

creedp

I am going to have a look around for a replacement battery and was wondering if there is any value in opting for a more expensive battery that has a higher Ah/CCA value?

OE battery seems to be 60Ah/590CCA - worth going to 70-80Ah/700-800CCA?

_Kaiser_

creedp wrote: »

I am going to have a look around for a replacement battery and was wondering if there is any value in opting for a more expensive battery that has a higher Ah/CCA value?

OE battery seems to be 60Ah/590CCA - worth going to 70-80Ah/700-800CCA?

Interested in this too as I'm getting a similar warning on the A6 lately after a few minutes with the engine off and have noticed it's a bit longer to start in the last week or so.

Looking online it seems you can pay as much as you want for a battery. Any suggestions for a 3L diesel 05 A6?

jimgoose

creedp wrote: »

I am going to have a look around for a replacement battery and was wondering if there is any value in opting for a more expensive battery that has a higher Ah/CCA value?

OE battery seems to be 60Ah/590CCA - worth going to 70-80Ah/700-800CCA?

Oh yes, get the best Ah/CCA rating available while remaining with the OE battery form-factor. I use and recommend Bosch Silver.