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15yo 3-bed semi-getting insulation upgraded

  • 05-11-2013 9:02pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭


    i'm getting the attic insulation upgraded and the walls pumped

    how much of a difference will i notice afterwards?


    thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    You may notice that the house heats up quicker
    You may notice that the house stays warm for longer after heating is turned off
    You may notice fewer draughts
    You may notice none of the above!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    don't follow?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    all done

    warmer homes scheme attic insulation and exterior walls pumped

    plenty of draughts blowing around internal doors? what's the story there?

    i closed all the vents etc.?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    all done

    warmer homes scheme attic insulation and exterior walls pumped

    plenty of draughts blowing around internal doors? what's the story there?

    i closed all the vents etc.?

    Open your vents!

    Lack of insulation in the house wasn't the problem to begin with. More tax money wasted.:mad:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    i can't follow your posts at all?


    they're a little too cryptic for me


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    i can't follow your posts at all?

    I've tried to answer your posts given the little info you supplied.

    You asked what you may notice, I gave you a list of all possibilities.
    Then, after the works were done you have draughts in the house. Therefore, heat conduction through your walls and ceiling (which insulation slows down) is not the primary heat loss mechanism in your house, lack of airtightness is. Insulation does not address this. The insulation "upgrade" work was grant aided, was ineffective and therefore a waste of tax payer money.

    Have you opened your vents yet?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    MicktheMan wrote: »
    I've tried to answer your posts given the little info you supplied.

    You asked what you may notice, I gave you a list of all possibilities.
    Then, after the works were done you have draughts in the house. Therefore, heat conduction through your walls and ceiling (which insulation slows down) is not the primary heat loss mechanism in your house, lack of airtightness is. Insulation does not address this. The insulation "upgrade" work was grant aided, was ineffective and therefore a waste of tax payer money.

    Have you opened your vents yet?

    thanks

    i figured the draughts was a problem afterwards which they haven't addressed


    ....point taken

    prob the cheapest part of the work needed though...so i'll tackle it myself


    what do you mean about opening vents? how does that help with draughts?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    i thought pumping the outside walls helped with draughts through cracks in plaster around windows and doors?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    what do you mean about opening vents? how does that help with draughts?

    I never said it did.

    Ventilation is required for a healthy indoor environment. Don't close them.

    In a nutshell, ventilation is (should be) the controlled exchange of stale wet internal air with fresh dry external air. Draughts are the uncontrolled infiltration/exfiltration of air through gap & cracks in the building envelope.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    ok so...

    any practical suggestions then...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    i thought pumping the outside walls helped with draughts through cracks in plaster around windows and doors?

    Well as you found out it doesn't.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    ok so...

    any practical suggestions then...

    Yes, stop listening to salesmen who tell you what you want to hear and hire an independent professional to test your house properly and tell you exactly what the problem is. You will save in the long run because you wont be wasting money on stuff that doesn't work.
    And, before you ask, yes I do this for a living.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    MicktheMan wrote: »
    Yes, stop listening to salesmen who tell you what you want to hear and hire an independent professional to test your house properly and tell you exactly what the problem is. You will save in the long run because you wont be wasting money on stuff that doesn't work.
    And, before you ask, yes I do this for a living.

    thanks but i haven't been sold anything...i i got the work done for free like..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    thanks but i haven't been sold anything...i i got the work done for free like..

    So I guess you got what you paid for:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    not really

    i got the major work done for free

    i'm gonna sort out the draughts next

    and thanks for no help btw:cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,482 ✭✭✭✭Ush1


    all done

    warmer homes scheme attic insulation and exterior walls pumped

    plenty of draughts blowing around internal doors? what's the story there?

    i closed all the vents etc.?

    The draughts would be from a lack of air tightness so despite upgrading insulation and reducing the speed at which heat escapes in certain areas, cold air is still getting in somewhere.

    Draughts could also be from the vents but some form of ventilation is necessary(even more important when air tightness is improved).

    You could give the airtightness a go yourself but if it's to be done right you'd probably be better off getting a blower test done by a professional who should be able to point out the exact areas of leakage.

    My 2 cents and I don't do it for a living.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    Ush1 wrote: »
    I don't do it for a living.

    thanks.. you're a lot more helpful than the man who supposedly does


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,552 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    thanks.. you're a lot more helpful than the man who supposedly does
    A little tip for you: Dont be so quick in dismissing advice and replies given. Sometimes you may not want to hear the obvious but have a read through the replies again and take everything on board and maybe, just maybe, you may form a different opinion. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    muffler wrote: »
    A little tip for you: Dont be so quick in dismissing advice and replies given. Sometimes you may not want to hear the obvious but have a read through the replies again and take everything on board and maybe, just maybe, you may form a different opinion. :)

    i doubt it tbh


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,432 ✭✭✭Audioslaven


    muffler wrote: »
    A little tip for you: Dont be so quick in dismissing advice and replies given. Sometimes you may not want to hear the obvious but have a read through the replies again and take everything on board and maybe, just maybe, you may form a different opinion. :)

    I think the op is looking for suggestions of how to improved it. I don't think the guy really gave him any good suggestions. I suppose if he did they you wouldnt be getting the likes of him.

    Around windows and doors are the big ones you want to focus in. On top of the guy that recommended the blow test, they can do a thermal image so see where the cold spots are. Again I am not in the business but here is some possible options. This is just some random guy on the net so I have not used him or am i promoting his business, but he has some options for you

    http://www.airtightnesstesting.ie/index.php/thermal-imaging/


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 22,648 ✭✭✭✭beauf


    I mean, I'm drowning here, and you're describing the water!

    http://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/As_Good_as_It_Gets

    How much are these tests on an average sized semi/detached?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    ok thanks for all the advise


    i've concluded that the warmer homes is well worth getting done free as they do the most expensive part of the overall job...pumping the walls and insulating the tanks and attic


    however they would need to 'tack on' a serious draughtproofing element to the scheme ,as micktheman pointed out in a roundabout way or else it's pointless

    the customer(myself) here is left to do this job himself...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,786 ✭✭✭slimjimmc


    however they would need to 'tack on' a serious draughtproofing element to the scheme ,as micktheman pointed out in a roundabout way or else it's pointless

    http://www.seai.ie/Grants/Warmer_Homes_Scheme/About_the_BEWH.html
    WHAT SERVICES ARE AVAILABLE?
    The service involves the installation of standard energy efficiency measures appropriate to the eligible household subject to SEAI survey, budget allocation and available capacity. The service is provided at no cost to the household and the measures currently available under this scheme are:

    Attic insulation.
    Draught proofing.
    Lagging jackets.
    Low energy light bulbs.
    Cavity wall insulation.
    Energy advice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    ya i think the draught proofing element only covers front and back door

    4 energy saving light bulbs


    pumping the outside walls helps with external draughts obviously too through cracks in plaster etc


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