Draught Stop

yop

Folks
Timber front door (Planning wanted one back in the day), have 1 dirty draught above 1/2 way up on near the lock, its about 1ft long and noticed it with the high winds.
Want to fix it so I am presuming outside of replacing the door, that I can use a good draught excluder.
I have seen them stick on ones but they don't seem to be great.
Any other recommendation?

Kettleson

Slightly off topic, but close enough to use this thread?

I've just spent the morning replacing draught excluders on windows, replacing last years, which were foam rubbish, but worked to an extent.

The ones I used this morning are much better quality, rubber, so much better, so maybe try a higher quality seal?

My question here is:

What sealant should I use around the windows at the exterior off house?

Maybe windows badly fitted, and/or weathering, but tiny gaps in the exterior plaster that hold the windows are letting in air. I used silicon sealant last year but it has now totally dried up and cracked. Needs re-done.

yop

Kettleson wrote: »

Slightly off topic, but close enough to use this thread?

I've just spent the morning replacing draught excluders on windows, replacing last years, which were foam rubbish, but worked to an extent.

The ones I used this morning are much better quality, rubber, so much better, so maybe try a higher quality seal?

My question here is:

What sealant should I use around the windows at the exterior off house?

Maybe windows badly fitted, and/or weathering, but tiny gaps in the exterior plaster that hold the windows are letting in air. I used silicon sealant last year but it has now totally dried up and cracked. Needs re-done.

I suspect I have a similar problem, did you just go around each window to check with draughts and seal with clear silicon outside?

Kettleson

yop wrote: »

I suspect I have a similar problem, did you just go around each window to check with draughts and seal with clear silicon outside?

Yes I did, and in some places, the air was flowing free through minute cracks in the external plaster, it was worse than the window seals themselves.

I sealed them up and it made a massive difference, but the silicon coudn't take the weathering. Needs re-done.

geanfranco

HI Kettleson..could you please let me know where you got the rubber draught excluders? I'm in the same boat..been using the foam rubbish aswell and all need to be replaced. Thanks

Kettleson

Home Base.

The confusing thing is the variable types are all in same packaging.

The main obvious difference is the price...however I understand the wording a bit better now..

"Storm Guard. Rubber "P" Profile. Weather Strip. Guaranteed 4 years".

1 package has just done two windows (well 2 big and 2 small)...massive difference. About €12 per pack.

EDIT: Home Base have changed packaging.. The "P" is gone. "P" refers to the width which is 3mm to 5mm.

yop

Kettleson wrote: »

Home Base.

The confusing thing is the variable types are all in same packaging.

The main obvious difference is the price...however I understand the wording a bit better now..

"Storm Guard. Rubber "P" Profile. Weather Strip. Guaranteed 4 years".

1 package has just done two windows (well 2 big and 2 small)...massive difference. About €12 per pack.

And is that for windows only or would it fix my problem with the timber door?

Kettleson

For doors and windows. 10 metres in pack. Might need 2 packs. €11.49 each.

As for the weathered silicon around the windows. I'm going to remove all original sealants, and use a good covering of external polyfilla. All previous sealants will have rendered pretty useless through freeze-thaw action.

biko

I got draught stopper strips in B&Q, or was it Woodies?
Did all my windows and doors last autumn and is fine since.

MicktheMan

There is a very simple way of draught proofing doors and windows in minutes without the need to spend much. This method is especially useful where you have non-uniform gaps.

All you need really is a tube regular silicon sealant (transparent) and a tub of Vaseline.

1. Clean the frame of the door or window to be sealed
2. Apply a very light layer of Vaseline to the door or window casement in the area where the door will come into contact with the frame.
3. Close the door and look for the biggest gap, open the door.
4. Apply a continuous bead of silicon to the frame ensuring the bead thickness is thicker than the largest gap to be filled.
5. Close the door and leave closed until the silicon has cured (time given on the tube, generally 12-24 hours)
6. Open the door and clean off the Vaseline off the door
7. Job done.

Kettleson

@Mick...top post! Thanks...

ravendude

Kettleson wrote: »

For doors and windows. 10 metres in pack. Might need 2 packs. €11.49 each.

As for the weathered silicon around the windows. I'm going to remove all original sealants, and use a good covering of external polyfilla. All previous sealants will have rendered pretty useless through freeze-thaw action.

What kind of silicone did you use? Are you sure it was external? - not just for bathrooms etc.
The external stuff is much more potent, - I used some internally and the fumes were in the house for several days, - which would not be the case with the internal stuff.
External silicone should last about 15 years, - certainly more that just 1 year anyway.

ravendude

FYI, Aldi had a load of draught seals a couple of weeks ago, - probably still there. Just as good as B&Q etc at about a 3rd of the price