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Replacing light-bulb - Laguna II

  • 29-10-2013 11:25am
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,794 ✭✭✭


    Hi guys.

    Does anyone know how to remove the front drivers side lighting case to replace the parking light bulb?

    Like which bolts etc need to be loosened?

    Much obliged.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=146494
    3 Bolts
    1st one is obvious (on top)
    2nd one underneath the front grill - remove front grill.
    3rd one is only accessible from behind the wheel arch lining - partially remove the forward wheel arch lining. Shine a torch in there and you will see it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,597 ✭✭✭tossy


    That link is for removal of headlights, surely you don't need to do that to replace a side light bulb.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Oh, I just read it as "remove headlight assembly". Then not sure, maybe someone else has worked on that type car.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,639 ✭✭✭Zoney


    Had a sidelight replaced in the same car - basically just a cap to remove and bulb comes out the back of the headlamp. Real problem is access - I just paid €4 for the Halfords lad to do mine, you have to know where exactly to feel for the clips, barely space to get a hand in. In my case it was the passenger side, the driver's side is worse due to the placement of the screenwash reservoir.

    Looked at the details in Haynes manual myself and decided I couldn't be bothered mucking around in there for it (time/effort worth more than €4). Glad I read it though as I knew what was being done, checked after the work and in fact the lad had forgotton to put the cap back on again, fortunately caught that before driving off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 977 ✭✭✭Wheelnut


    If I remember correctly the filler neck of the washer bottle just twists off and you have clear access to the bulbs. (Sometimes the French actually do something right!)


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,794 ✭✭✭Jesus.


    Cheers boys, I'll give it another go in the morning.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,267 ✭✭✭visual


    Wheelnut wrote: »
    If I remember correctly the filler neck of the washer bottle just twists off and you have clear access to the bulbs. (Sometimes the French actually do something right!)


    Yes you did remember correctly it does twist off to give access to bulbs.

    No need to remove headlamp.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,228 ✭✭✭cletus


    Zoney wrote: »
    Had a sidelight replaced in the same car - basically just a cap to remove and bulb comes out the back of the headlamp. Real problem is access - I just paid €4 for the Halfords lad to do mine, you have to know where exactly to feel for the clips, barely space to get a hand in. In my case it was the passenger side, the driver's side is worse due to the placement of the screenwash reservoir.

    Looked at the details in Haynes manual myself and decided I couldn't be bothered mucking around in there for it (time/effort worth more than €4). Glad I read it though as I knew what was being done, checked after the work and in fact the lad had forgotton to put the cap back on again, fortunately caught that before driving off.

    Sure that just means you paid a fella to do the job and he did it wrong.

    Surely by having to check the job afterwards yourself, you could have just done it in the first place


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,639 ✭✭✭Zoney


    cletus wrote: »
    Sure that just means you paid a fella to do the job and he did it wrong.

    Surely by having to check the job afterwards yourself, you could have just done it in the first place

    I'd have been able to do the job myself, but I saved time and hassle. In fairness he was done almost as soon as I'd gone back round to have a look after turning the lights off again from the check beforehand. I'd have been a wee bit longer I think :)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,794 ✭✭✭Jesus.


    Cheers boys, just did that there.

    Much appreciated. :)


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,794 ✭✭✭Jesus.


    There goes another one. Its getting irritating now. I've blown half a dozen bulbs, all on different lights, in the last six months. The last car I had for 7 years, I can't remember ever having to replace even one!

    What could be the problem here?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,267 ✭✭✭visual


    Cheap bulbs are the biggest cause of repeated bulb failure.

    Always worth checking battery connections and battery leads


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 977 ✭✭✭Wheelnut


    I think you should check the voltage. Connect the meter at the battery, turn on the lights and hold the engine at about 2500RPM. Anything more than about 14.5 volts in this condition could be the cause of blowing bulbs.

    I agree with what Visual has posted but I have to add that I have used Lidl bulbs for years and got good service. I suppose it's down to where you buy your cheap bulbs.

    :)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,794 ✭✭✭Jesus.


    If the voltage is high, does that mean a new battery?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 977 ✭✭✭Wheelnut


    It would be an alternator fault.

    Edit: what bulbs are blowing? is it just headlights or other lights as well? If it's headlights are you using standard 55w bulbs or have you put in a higher wattage?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,794 ✭✭✭Jesus.


    Wheelnut wrote: »
    It would be an alternator fault.Edit: what bulbs are blowing? is it just headlights or other lights as well? If it's headlights are you using standard 55w bulbs or have you put in a higher wattage?

    The back indicators, back lights and front "parking/side" lights. No headlights as of yet.

    No mate, just standard bulbs. Its an auld car so its probably just one of those minor annoyances I'll have to put up with if I don't want to go putting money into it. If it was a decent, more expensive car I'd get to the bottom of it, you know.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,267 ✭✭✭visual


    Check the plug connector on back of rear lamps. I had one with bad connection

    I doubt it is faulty alternator. A discharged battery will charge at higher voltage 14.5 to 15 volts a fully charged battery will be at 13.4 to 13.6

    With full load lights AC rear window heater the alternator should be able to out put 1/2 volt more than battery at rest. Often it will output 13.5 volts.

    The battery acts like a big capacitor and will smoth out any fluctions in alternator most common cause of spikes is poor battery connections or battery to engine / body earth.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,639 ✭✭✭Zoney


    Jesus. wrote: »
    The back indicators, back lights and front "parking/side" lights. No headlights as of yet.

    No mate, just standard bulbs. Its an auld car so its probably just one of those minor annoyances I'll have to put up with if I don't want to go putting money into it. If it was a decent, more expensive car I'd get to the bottom of it, you know.

    Probably wouldn't cost much to get a battery diagnostic - I got one for free when replacing my wipers a while back. Full check of the battery under idle, full load, etc. with the tester should show if the battery is looking good or not.

    Is it possible moisture is getting into the light fittings - are the contacts at all corroded?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,794 ✭✭✭Jesus.


    Zoney wrote: »
    Is it possible moisture is getting into the light fittings - are the contacts at all corroded?

    Funny you should say that because a few weeks back, the rear indicator was flashing very dimly and the rear light was flashing a bit at the same time, like the power was being transferred to the rear light instead of all of it going to the indicator. So I just sprayed the connection with some WD40 and voila, problem solved.

    Maybe all the other connections could do with a spray?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 977 ✭✭✭Wheelnut


    Jesus. wrote: »
    ... the rear indicator was flashing very dimly and the rear light was flashing a bit at the same time, like the power was being transferred to the rear light instead of all of it going to the indicator...

    That is caused by a bad earth to the lamp unit. What you saw happening was the current trying to get to earth through another bulb because there was too much resistance in the proper earth.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,794 ✭✭✭Jesus.


    Wheelnut wrote: »
    That is caused by a bad earth to the lamp unit. What you saw happening was the current trying to get to earth through another bulb because there was too much resistance in the proper earth.

    Quite.

    Do you think an aul spray of WD40 to the rest of 'em might help?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,934 ✭✭✭Renegade Mechanic


    Its possible to do it without removing the headlamps but it is difficult! If you havent managed it mate, ill write it up in a bit of detail later :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 977 ✭✭✭Wheelnut


    Jesus. wrote: »
    Quite.

    Do you think an aul spray of WD40 to the rest of 'em might help?

    A rub of sandpaper in the right places would be better.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 4,794 ✭✭✭Jesus.


    Its possible to do it without removing the headlamps but it is difficult! If you havent managed it mate, ill write it up in a bit of detail later :)

    Oh its all done mate, last month. Turned out to be handy enough to be honest. Replacing the headlights would probably be a trickier assignment.
    Wheelnut wrote: »
    A rub of sandpaper in the right places would be better.

    I'll give that a shot Wheelnut. None have blown since so fingers crossed!

    Cheers mate.


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