Back Brakes Stuck On.

Vote 4 Pedro

Hi,
Any advice ?
The wife car, a 2005 Ford Focus 1.6 Automatic has it's rear brakes stuck on one side,
She drove it home with no problem last night, parked up in the drive and today it will not move, at all.
I tried to move it but the rear passenger side wheel is locked solid, I tried to drive it back and forward trying to release it but no joy, it was just dragging / scraping along.
I'll jack it up and try get the wheel off and then what, the brakes will be seized up and i can not move the car or take it to a garage so i need some pointers if possible as to how to fix it myself.
Not looked yet to see if it's drum or disc brakes but i'm thinking they will be locked soild.

Thanks.

Alanstrainor

Vote 4 Pedro wrote: »

Hi,
Any advice ?
The wife car, a 2005 Ford Focus 1.6 Automatic has it's rear brakes stuck on one side,
She drove it home with no problem last night, parked up in the drive and today it will not move, at all.
I tried to move it but the rear passenger side wheel is locked solid, I tried to drive it back and forward trying to release it but no joy, it was just dragging / scraping along.
I'll jack it up and try get the wheel off and then what, the brakes will be seized up and i can not move the car or take it to a garage so i need some pointers if possible as to how to fix it myself.
Not looked yet to see if it's drum or disc brakes but i'm thinking they will be locked soild.

Thanks.

Just the handbrake I'd assume. Smack it with a big hammer:D

Vote 4 Pedro

Alanstrainor wrote: »

Just the handbrake I'd assume. Smack it with a big hammer:D

The handbrake is fully down now but it does feel very tight and will not pull up at all, how would i release it if it is the handbrake that's stuck on ?

Interslice

Had to do this on a mate van recently. I reckon it's a drum you have. Anyway. Jack it up and give it a load of taps all the way round to loosen up and rust and crap inside. Make sure to leave it in gear a chock all the wheels. His had studs but you could put the bolts back in and stick a big lever( preferably wooden so you don't ruin the threads) in between them to turn the wheel. The van was sitting gor two years with the handbrake on so if that doesn't shift it you've another problem.

JohnBoy26

The wheel isn't gone sideways by any chance?

debabyjesus

Vote 4 Pedro wrote: »

The handbrake is fully down now but it does feel very tight and will not pull up at all, how would i release it if it is the handbrake that's stuck on ?

If the handbrake is hard to engage then it may well be semi engaged at the stuck wheel even when the handbrake is fully released.

You will need to locate the handbrake adjustment mechanism. It can be under the car on the outside or under the center console within the car. One cable goes directly from the handbrake handle into the adjusting mechanism and two cables come out of it and go off to each wheel.

From what you describe id say the cable going to the stuck wheel is too tight and needs to be slackened off.

bazz26

It could well be the rear drum brake that is seized up if the car was parked up for a few days after the rain. Happened to me on a similar Focus a few years back.

Dark sun

First thing id try is Jack up car, remove wheel, big hammer give it a few good smacks, if no joy remove brake drum cover, have a look inside.

TheBoffin

My only advice is that if you are unsure of what you are doing, stop, and get a mechanic involved. Brakes are one of the service items best left to mechanics.

Vote 4 Pedro

I spent most of today getting the back wheels and drums of the car, they were stuck on so bad they took hours to get off,
The brake shoes were so warn down that the pads had broken up into dust and it was on the metal,
It's the wife car and i rearly drive it but she did say the brakes were a little weak but nothing to bad.
The car was in the Ford dealership for a service a few months ago and they supposed to have been checked and the car just passed the NCT 2 weeks ago, god know how it passed the test.
Anyway i'll be getting new brake shoes on Monday so it should be ok again,
Thanks for the advice lads.

YbFocus

In the test once the car provides the effort they can't do anything.
They can't see them.
Also they don't need much effort on the back to pass, equality is the big one

Interslice

YbFocus wrote: »

In the test once the car provides the effort they can't do anything.
They can't see them.
Also they don't need much effort on the back to pass, equality is the big one

Once there both fooked, your grand .

YbFocus

Interslice wrote: »

Once there both fooked, your grand

Funny isn't it, if the linings are gone and your down to the steel you'll still pass!
Once the effort is genuine and equal. I suppose braking is braking but still

Interslice

YbFocus wrote: »

Funny isn't it, if the linings are gone and your down to the steel you'll still pass!
Once the effort is genuine and equal. I suppose braking is braking but still

One of pet hates about these tests. They should really be taking of the wheels a thoroughly inspecting the brakes before they do anything else. You could have less than a mm of pad left and do 40k a year and pass an nct. Discs the same. Should be measured properly for wear. I've seen and bought lots of cars with fresh NCT's that need new pads and discs. This is from manufacturers wear limits, not just IMO or anything.

YbFocus

In fairness at my last test (my old passat) the guy pointed out that I needed new discs but thats all he could do!
Can't even give an advisory, just him telling you himself!
It is silly alright, but if they spend any longer we won't get a test within a year