Hot Water !!!

matjay

Hi

I am having a problem with the hot water in the house. The problem is ...... when the boiler turns on at the assigned time ( I have it set to come on just before I get home from work) The boiler runs/burns for approx 10 - 15 minutes than stops. Once the hour is up on the clock, the boiler than turns off as its supposed to do, but when the hot water tap is run the water is luke warm at best !!!

I have a boiler which is capable of heating upstairs,downstairs and the water independently. So if I want the upstairs to be nice and cosy on these cold nights, I just whack it on for 15 minutes and presto job done. The central heating is fine and dandy, its just the water that's the problem.

I originally thought it might be the thermostat that is strapped to the outside of the tank, this I take it tells the boiler that the water is at the required temperature and than tells it to shut down until the water falls below that temperature and switches back on again.

After a bit of tinkering I now have come to the conclusion that it is not the thermostat. I have overridden the blue box that is connected to the inlet of the tank from the boiler, this automatically turns the boiler on and it stays on until the temp is at the thermo level, than switches off. It than comes back on once the water falls below the temp level it is set too (75) So this tell me the thermo is OK.

I am now thinking it could be the electric switch "blue box with lever switch on the side" (I think that's what it is called, am I right ? ) As said before in the post, it opens to let the hot water in, but than closes after approx 10 - 15 minutes. The inlet pipe to the tank after the blue box is very hot to the touch but than goes luke warm after a while, but the pipes on the boiler side of the blue box are piping hot. So the blue box is not letting the hot water into the tank !!!! So I override it by sliding the silver lever to override and click it up to keep it in place. Once I have piping hot water after approx and hour I put it back to manual, and I have nice HOT water for the day.

I would like though top have it back the way its meant to work as before.

If anybody could shed any light on this for me, I would greatly appreciate it :O) If it is indeed this blue box (can someone tell me the correct name for this) how much does one of these cost, I am grand at the DIY and do most of the work around the house myself, so I could change this myself, once I knew what it was called. Don't want to go into heat merchants and ask for the "blue switch thingy"

Cheers

Jason

Pete67

The valve is a zone valve, and the the 'blue box' is the actuator - depending on the make it should be possible to remove the actuator without draining the system. Replacement actuators are available, best bet is to take off the old one and bring it to Heatmerchants or similar supplier. All connections are mains voltage so unless you are competent to safely isolate and carry out mains voltage electrical work get someone in to do it for you.

If you are doing it yourself, there should (usually) be 4 wires - brown and blue are live/neutral supply respectively to the actuator, grey and orange (usually) go to the internal microswitch which is used to enable the boiler. Make a note of the wiring before you disconnect anything!

matjay

Thanks for the reply Pete67,

My Dad is an Electrician so he can look after that side of things for me. So do you think it is the actuator, which is the problem, based on what I have said ?

esox28

Its sounds like the actuator is a horsman with heatmerchants logo on it, these have been disconnected and a direct replacement can be obtained from heatmerchant I think its an EPs or sauter valve yellow.

Pete67

It sounds like the actuator is the problem, before removing it check that there is 230V at the actuator terminals when thermostat is turned up. Some actuators have a neon indicator to confirm that they are energised, if not check with multimeter. If you have 230V and the valve does not open, and can be opened manually using the override, then yes, the actuator is dead.

matjay

Thanks for the info Pete67, The indicator light is always on (orange) when the boiler has been turned on by the clock, fires for a bit but than after approx 10 - 15 mins the actuator turns the flow back off to the tank, the light stays on until the boiler is turned off by the clock, and the pipes before the actuator are piping hot. I have priced a new actuator €45.00 inc VAT and the one spoke about earlier the Horsman is indeed discontinued and replaced by the Sauter one.

Again, thanks for the help :O)

matjay

Thanks to all, for the replies, I will tinker around with it and see how I get on

Robbie.G

matjay wrote: »

Thanks for the info Pete67, The indicator light is always on (orange) when the boiler has been turned on by the clock, fires for a bit but than after approx 10 - 15 mins the actuator turns the flow back off to the tank, the light stays on until the boiler is turned off by the clock, and the pipes before the actuator are piping hot. I have priced a new actuator €45.00 inc VAT and the one spoke about earlier the Horsman is indeed discontinued and replaced by the Sauter one.

Again, thanks for the help :O)

It's unlikely the problem is the actuator as if it was faulty it wouldn't let any water to heat at all.You possibly have a circulation problem it would also take around 40 mins min to heat a cylinder of water to 60degrees.
To check remove actuator by pressing button on side and lifting off turn the spindle under it on and then try your heating.You can also turn the actuator upside down when it's removed and you will be able to see if the spindle moves when powered on if it dies its not faulty