Plans For Winter Protection

DMW22

Just wondering what will you be doing to protect your car over the winter months or have you done it already?
Need to get a free weekend to tackle my car and give it a good going over.

The Real B-man

Check Tyre Pressures/Condition/Thread Depth (Including Spare)
Check Wipers
Fluids (Use more Concentrated Windscreen Washer 50/50 or more)
LIGHTS! Make sure all Bulbs are Working and Carry Spares

I Generally just Wash It don't bother with Wax or Polish as its Filthy hours later!

Curran

Been thinking about this aswell, as I need to do a job on my own....badly needs it!

Thinking I might go with Bilt Hamber Finis-Wax as its very durable, and then keep it topped up with a spray sealant/quick detailer; something like Orchard Autocare Perfection each time I get a chance to wash it.

DMW22

Would you have to start from the beginning? Eg remove wax, wash, de-tar, de-ironise, etc? Or can you remove the old wax and apply a tougher longer lasting one?

Curran

Its best to remove everything; if you want the product to last the length of time that it is suggested it will last.

For example if you had Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection on the car now, and you applied Chemical Guys JetSeal109 on it, it may only last 2 months. But if you applied the Chemical Guys JetSeal109 onto a fully prepared surface; wash, clay, de-tar, de-iron, it should last 3+ months.
Often people complain that they weren't impressed by a certain product, but they never prep'd the car properly. Ive said it plenty of times here before, that preparation is 90% of the battle. The car will look great with any product applied, and it will have the best chance of bonding/durability.

DMW22

I have Jetseal on the car at the minute so will probably stick with that or should I be looking at getting CG Pete's 53 or similar?

Curran

A few coats of JetSeal109 should see you through the winter months. There's no real advantage to the Petes53 during the winter as the JetSeal109 is more durable. It would make sense during the summer months, if you car is darker in colour, as the wax would give a warmer glow to the paint.
What I would consider would be something like a spray sealant for after your regular wash, to boost shine and protection, so that you'll comfortably get through the winter. Perfection I mentioned above, or Chemical Guys Blitz will do a good job also.

DMW22

Thanks for that Curran. I have petty much everything here (Bilt Hamber clay, CG Pro Polish 3n, Jetseal, Perfection) I need to stick in an order for OA Iron and Tar Cleanse.
Now to just get some free time.

MetzgerMeister

Got an order from Gtechniq today which includes EXO and G4. Once I find a day to apply those that's it for me for winter and summer and next winter and the following summer:D

vectra

Gtechniq C2V3 for me on both cars.
Lazy mans protection

dylbert

I got most of it done over the last two weeks, two coats of SRP and three of EGP. Gonna get the wheels off to give them a good clean and a couple of coats of CG Wheel Guard. Thinking of using Autoglym Aqua Wax to keep it topped up, can I use a quick wax over a sealant?

Ded_Zebra

I put 3 coats of EGP on it over the weekend and I plan to just use perfection on it now after washes to keep it toped up over the winter. Hope it lasts this time.....

BillJ

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Got an order from Gtechniq today which includes EXO and G4. Once I find a day to apply those that's it for me for winter and summer and next winter and the following summer:D

vectra wrote: »

Gtechniq C2V3 for me on both cars.
Lazy mans protection

I'm very interested in this stuff. I'm good with the process of wash clay polish wax etc but this stuff is new to me.

Anyone able to give a quick bullet point guide on the products needed and the order they are applied in? Would be very much appreciated!

vectra

BillJ wrote: »

I'm very interested in this stuff. I'm good with the process of wash clay polish wax etc but this stuff is new to me.

Anyone able to give a quick bullet point guide on the products needed and the order they are applied in? Would be very much appreciated!

C2V3

Wash and strip off any lsp on your car.
You can apply this over and lsp but it shortens its durability.

Prep your paint.
ie, Clay
Wash/ dry

get 2 MF cloths,
shake you'r bottle of C2V3,
I normally start on the roof.
Give roughly 4~6 squirts along one half of the roof and spread with mf one, which I basically wipe side to side then front to rear.
Once done get cloth two and buff.
You will see nothing to buff but do it anyhow.
Continue to other half of roof and repeat.
Continue with whole car in whatever order pleases you.
I normally do
Roof
Bonnet & front wings
Boot and both back panels
Doors to bodyline
Finish off below bodyline around full car including bumpers etc.

The whole car from start to finish with C2V3 should take no more than 10~15 minutes.

Me being me I repeat the full pocess to ensure I missed none.

Thats it,
Job done.

You can then mix. some of the remaining C2V3 I think 1:5 with distilled water to make a QD

About every 4th wash or so just give a quick spray on your car while wet after rinsing it and dry as normal.

Great stuff,

OH
Did I mention you can use this on your windows as well?
even on your windscreen,

Hope this helps

BTW
Do not feel like the size of the bottle is a joke.
I have done 3 cars twice with one bottle so far and i would say it is only half used.

MetzgerMeister

BillJ wrote: »

I'm very interested in this stuff. I'm good with the process of wash clay polish wax etc but this stuff is new to me.

Anyone able to give a quick bullet point guide on the products needed and the order they are applied in? Would be very much appreciated!

I have a different version (but much longer lasting and stronger) of what vectra has on his car. It's a layer of C1 crystal lacquer underneath the layer of EXO. The crystal lacquer is another lacquer layer which is a LOT tougher than normal lacquer. It's almost scratch resistant too.

The EXO is an exoskeleton layer with organic and inorganic compounds. The organic part makes water bead and run straight of (like plant leaves) and the inorganic part makes it shine like bedamned.


To apply the C1 Crystal Lacquer:

Before doing this process, it makes sense to perform a paint correction to get the paint as new looking as possible.

> Do the whole wash/de-tar/clay process and remove all polish, wax etc.

> Dry the car fully, ensuring all water is gone

> Bring the car indoors out of the elements

> Wipe the whole car down using Gtechniq Panel Wipe and a microfibre

> Ensure the paint is as perfect as it's going to get

> Apply the C1 with the cotton pads provided

> Let it cure for 1 minute

> Buff off the residue with a new microfibre

> Let cure for 12 hours


To apply EXO:

Normally, EXO is applied directly after the C1 has cured for 12 hours. Each product compliments the other and they make a great barrier on the car.

> No need to do any cleaning as long as the car hasn't moved since the C1 was applied

> Apply EXO using the suede cloth it comes with

> Let cure for 1 minute and buff off the residue

> Once the whole car is done, let it all cure for a further 3 hours before letting water come into contact with it.


To apply G1 ClearVision Smart Glass to the windows:

Before doing this, try to get any scratches polished out of your windscreen using a D/A with cerium oxide and rayon pads.

> Clean the glass using a glass polish (I used Gtechniq glass polish)

> Apply the G4 using the cotton pads provided

> Let cure for 15 minutes

> Remove the residue with the residue remover (G2) you get in the pack using another cotton pad

> Let cure for a further 15 minutes once all windows are done.

> Windscreen needs 3 coats due to the rubbing action of the wipers but all other glass only needs 1 coat.


If you're happy enough with the lacquer on your car, you can skip the C1 application and just go straight to EXO but like I said, both compliment each other and give a better finish and protection.

The C1 and EXO have a 2.5 year life span but the C1 underneath EXO will last a longer especially if you apply a few coats of EXO like I'm doing. The G4 SmartGlass is a year and a half I think or 30,000 miles.

BillJ

Wealth of information there lads thanks!

I think I will definitely invest in C2V3, is this the stuff? http://www.cleancar.ie/gtechniq-c2-liquid-crystal-auto-100ml.html
Seems cheap in relation to other gtechniq products

MM is this the EXO you use?
http://www.cleancar.ie/gtechniq-exo-v2-ultra-durable-hybrid-coating-30ml.html
or this?
http://www.cleancar.ie/gtechniq-exo-ultra-durable-hybrid-coating.html

Is EXO much better than C2V3?

Is it possible to strip off C2V3 or EXO in the future if I want to go and apply C1 underneath it in future?

And lastly! If I just used C2V3 what kind of finish would I be expecting compared to a conventional wax or sealant?

thanks:)

MetzgerMeister

BillJ wrote: »

Wealth of information there lads thanks!

I think I will definitely invest in C2V3, is this the stuff? http://www.cleancar.ie/gtechniq-c2-liquid-crystal-auto-100ml.html
Seems cheap in relation to other gtechniq products

MM is this the EXO you use?
http://www.cleancar.ie/gtechniq-exo-v2-ultra-durable-hybrid-coating-30ml.html
or this?
http://www.cleancar.ie/gtechniq-exo-ultra-durable-hybrid-coating.html

Is EXO much better than C2V3?

Is it possible to strip off C2V3 or EXO in the future if I want to go and apply C1 underneath it in future?

And lastly! If I just used C2V3 what kind of finish would I be expecting compared to a conventional wax or sealant?

thanks:)

I used EXO v2 which is the first link. This one lasts over 2 years whereas the v1 aerosol only last 6 months and requires the panels to be at a certain temperature before application whereas v2 doesn't.

EXO and C2V3 are completely different products with different jobs. The C2V3 is a different version of C1 crystal lacquer.

It would be a huge waste of money, time and effort if you were to strip off EXO. If anything you should apply the C1 first then at another stage, do the EXO over it.

If you used C2V3, the beading is there but it's not as good or pronounced as a good wax (like Collinite or Pete's 53) would be and nowhere near as good as EXO.

BillJ

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

I used EXO v2 which is the first link. This one lasts over 2 years whereas the v1 aerosol only last 6 months and requires the panels to be at a certain temperature before application whereas v2 doesn't.

EXO and C2V3 are completely different products with different jobs. The C2V3 is a different version of C1 crystal lacquer.

It would be a huge waste of money, time and effort if you were to strip off EXO. If anything you should apply the C1 first then at another stage, do the EXO over it.

If you used C2V3, the beading is there but it's not as good or pronounced as a good wax (like Collinite or Pete's 53) would be and nowhere near as good as EXO.

All these numbers and letters get confusing!:pac:

The c2v3 seems like a good option for winter protection, and maybe next year I will invest in c1 and EXO.

What would the effect of waxing over the c2v3 be? I have megs NXT 2.0, would it increase shine and beading?

MetzgerMeister

You can apply stuff on top of C2V3 but you will get the surface performance of whatever it is that you put on rather than that of the c2v3.

IIRC, you drive a BMW??

BillJ

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

You can apply stuff on top of C2V3 but you will get the surface performance of whatever it is that you put on rather than that of the c2v3.

IIRC, you drive a BMW??

Right I'll give c2v3 a go and see how I like it. I just got paid today, I'm already after buying a service kit, chrome indicator bulbs and now this. I need to get off the internet.:pac:

Thats right, e46 318Ci! Not a 325 like most around here unfortunately!

MetzgerMeister

Ah it's not that dear, only €7.95. C1 is €55.00 for the 30ml bottle and EXO is €52.00 for 30ml. I got and always will get the 50ml because I'm happier to have more than I need rather than less and with any left over once the car is done, you can either give a second coat or do the alloys.

Due to the nature of C1 and EXO, once you open the bottle, it has to be used within a week so when you do this job, make sure you can get it done in 1 go.

BillJ

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Ah it's not that dear, only €7.95. C1 is €55.00 for the 30ml bottle and EXO is €52.00 for 30ml. I got and always will get the 50ml because I'm happier to have more than I need rather than less and with any left over once the car is done, you can either give a second coat or do the alloys.

Due to the nature of C1 and EXO, once you open the bottle, it has to be used within a week so when you do this job, make sure you can get it done in 1 go.

Ya it won't break the bank I suppose. Once I stop after that.

wow you'd want to be prepared to use it so. can c2v3 be used on alloys also?

MetzgerMeister

It can be used on any painted surface and also on glass or GRP.

Also, 325's are over-rated

BillJ

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

It can be used on any painted surface and also on glass or GRP.

Also, 325's are over-rated

I still want one though:p

MetzgerMeister

BillJ wrote: »

I still want one though:p

Nah, I'm still glad I didn't buy one!

BillJ

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Nah, I'm still glad I didn't buy one!

Because you have a 335:pac:

MetzgerMeister

BillJ wrote: »

Because you have a 335:pac:

True

Vote 4 Pedro

Just done mine, should be ok for a few months,

Done the full job, i think / hope, maybe a little "OTT" on the prep, but it's done now.

Pre-Wash - with APC,
Snow Foamed with OAC Cotton Candy,
Wash with OAC Bramley bubble bath - Two Bucket Method,
Rinse,
De-tar - OAC Tar Cleanse,
Rinse,
De-Iron - OAC Iron Cleanse,
Rinse,
Clay,
Snow Foamed again,
Re-Washed and Dried.
Auto finesse Tough Prep.

That was for the prep,

Jacked up and wheels off the car and then fully protected,

Then for protection i used OAC Perfection and Bilt Hammer Finns Wax and after each i'm topping up with Nanolax final finish protection.

It's really nice and shinny now, every morning it's great to see the car covered with tiny water beads from the dew and when you set off the water seems to just fall off the car.

Thanks to Curran & Detailing Shed for the supplies and advice.

MetzgerMeister

Nice job Pedro Yours is the A3 yeah?

Vote 4 Pedro

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Nice job Pedro Yours is the A3 yeah?

Yeah that's right,
I think i've spent more time cleaning it than driving it

vectra

BillJ wrote: »

Wealth of information there lads thanks!

I think I will definitely invest in C2V3, is this the stuff? http://www.cleancar.ie/gtechniq-c2-liquid-crystal-auto-100ml.html
Seems cheap in relation to other gtechniq products


And lastly! If I just used C2V3 what kind of finish would I be expecting compared to a conventional wax or sealant?

thanks:)

Thats the one.

This has been machine polished remember.
But this is wearing nothing only C2V3.

Reflections.


Reflection


Beads

Curran

Vote 4 Pedro wrote: »

It's really nice and shinny now, every morning it's great to see the car covered with tiny water beads from the dew and when you set off the water seems to just fall off the car.

This thread needs pics of the car!!


No problem on the advice....always willing to lend a hand!

BillJ

vectra wrote: »

Thats the one.

This has been machine polished remember.
But this is wearing nothing only C2V3.

Looks very good. I have the bonnet and boot machine polished. I have just ordered C2V3 so now I have no choice but to strip off the current protection, prep and machine polish the rest and pop my gtechniq cherry:pac:

Why do i do it to myself