Fake protank heads

Ants Murray

Hey Guys ... anybody ever suspicious of the protank replacement heads they get? I use two separate vendors and one batch I've got were branded and the other either came separate or in a non branded silver pack in batches of 5. The non branded ones seem to be wearing within two days and the manky burnt taste where as I was getting 5-6 days out of the branded ones. I'm using the same juice ... Pipe sauce

StickyIcky

Learn to rebuild them yourself. Once you have say 10 heads which need replacing stored in something like a shot glass in a cupboard, you can go ahead and rebuild them all. Use some good quality wick and wire and get the nack of rebuilding right enough and you'll never have to worry about dodgy heads or running out of heads again. If you're rich and don't need to worry about money just buy dozens of original replacement heads. If you want to save a buck and be slightly more independent then learn to rebuild, it's not hard.

I've never had anything like that before but if you feel like there's a problem best thing to do is contact the retailer and give them the opportunity to make things right for you.

M00lers

I'm looking into rebuilding protank heads.
What gauge kanthal and what size silica wick do I need for a good vape, looking to make 1.8 to 2 ohm coils and I may try cotton....any tips?

At the moment I have a 900mah Ego-C Twist and a Protank Mini II and an Aspire BDC.

StickyIcky

If you get yourself some .2mm Kanthal and some 2mm silica it's a good starting point. You're probably best to have a mod that can read ohms as well. I've the vamo and generally I put my rebuilt heads on it first see what the ohms are, have a vape, then go from there.

grindle

.20 kanthal would be best for that range, just cut a 5-6cm length of wire and wrap the coils as close together as possible around a mini screwdriver 1-2mm in thickness without crossing them over eachother and BANG. Coil made.
Place coil into head using paperclip as a support so the coils line up with the wick slots.
Thread cotton through coil.
Fill with juice.
Leave to soak for a minute.
Vape.
Die of happiness.
Leave everything to grindle in your will.

M00lers

Thanks, I have some 2mm wick already, so just need .2mm Kanthal.

I've access to a multimeter so checking ohms is sorted.

Anything else worth grabbing, I love experimenting, different size kanthal? Would that bring anything to the party?

grindle

It would - if you got .25 kanthal you could make a 9/10 wrap microcoil, that's a vapour machine and should be around your chosen resistance.
Just make sure you wrap around something 1.5mm diameter or less or your resistance will be higher.
You could try ribbon kanthal as well but I only find that useful for genesis atties/mesh wicks. With a thicker gauge of kanthal like .25 and up, and the coils being so close together... you're already getting the maximised coverage that ribbon's so good for.
Wouldn't bother getting thinner wire at all but if you DO want thinner wire, get onto me cos I have far too much 0.15 kanthal.
Seriously stupid amounts, I thought it was all I'd ever use!

M00lers

Great info grindle, thanks. .2 and .25 should keep me busy for a while.

EDIT:Is ebay a good place to get Kanthal A1? Seems to be very cheap on there, is it too cheap? i.e. Is there any issues using "cheap" Kanthal as opposed to "quality" Kanthal?

grindle

Kanthal is all made by the same company (Kanthal!) so as long as you're looking at Kanthal resistance wire it's the same stuff you'd get anywhere.

csi vegas

moolers2000 wrote: »

EDIT:Is ebay a good place to get Kanthal A1? Seems to be very cheap on there, is it too cheap? i.e. Is there any issues using "cheap" Kanthal as opposed to "quality" Kanthal?

I went looking there a few weeks ago and a company called Stealth Vape have just about every type of wire and wick material there is, plus they're well established and in the UK. They're on eBay too which is where I found them. I got my order within three days. The Irish vendors don't (ever) seem to have A1 32 gauge, hence ordering from S/v.

Ionised

+1 for Stealth Vapes. Good range of size and speedy, cheap delivery.

csi vegas

Ionised wrote: »

+1 for Stealth Vapes. Good range of size and speedy, cheap delivery.

Yeah, just £3 delivery

eeloe

Pipe sauce is a high VG juice, 95% if I'm not mistaken, protank heads an the likes are designed to wick runny juice, and with the repaid drop in temperature over the last couple of days your pipe sauce is probably a bit thicker than it would have been over the summer, that's why you're having wicking issues!

Ants Murray

Thanks for all the suggestions folks ... Rebuilding and DIY in general would certainly not be my forte but I'm sure there's a good youtube vid somewhere in relation to the rebuild! Any suggestion for a tank that might be less finicky but designed for a straightforward rebuild?Like cut the wick, place it in, tighten a screw done??? probably not? eeloe i'll keep the sauce in the car engine and see if that sorts it out!

StickyIcky

A7 rebuildable atomiser + the A7oid extra attachment for it maybe

Every rebuildable atomiser you need a piece of wick and wrap a piece of wire around the wick 3 - 6 times so there's a coil of wire going around the wick with two 'legs' of wire kind like this http://www.avidvaper.com/rebuildable-atomizer-coils/ <- You can even build packs of them premade.

You put the two legs into the A7 and screw two screws down. Then you attach the A7oid and fill with juice. This turns it basically into a hybrid between a dripping atomiser (the A7) and a cartomiser (the A7oid part because it has filler material in it.)

There's no real clearomisers that are much easier to rebuild than the Kangers or the Vivi Novas really. The main pain in the butt part is taking the rubber bung out and putting it back in again.

Another easier option would be a carto tank. You can buy cartomisers pre-punched with the neccessary hole and a tank which the cartomiser goes into which holds lots of juice. This is a great way of doing it in my opinion for hassle free use.