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Building a TV Cabinet/Stand. What Wood?

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  • 09-10-2013 2:12pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,745 ✭✭✭


    Hi all....

    I'll soon be embarking on building a TV cabinet to put the TV on and for all my AV equipment. I built one before from MDF, which I loved but the wife hated, so I've been given her requirements for the new one.

    Reason I'm building is that I cannot find a pre-made one to suit my dimensions. Besides that, I get a deal of satisfaction from knowing I did it myself. BTW, I'm a real novice at wood working - never even did it in school.

    So she wants it to have a bit of "character" and not the black lump I built last time. Also must be child friendly and protect my AV gear.

    To protect the gear I've agreed to use a couple of doors from Ikea: http://www.ikea.com/ie/en/catalog/products/50210840/

    She likes the black-brown colour so I'll probably use a stain like this: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+gel-stain-java-473ml+gf10253

    So the question is what wood to use? I read a lot about using Birch plywood but I don't fancy trying to put banding on it as I'll be using a router to take all the edges off the wood (so the kids don't split their heads).

    What else can I use? I'd prefer non-plywood nor MDF. What about something like "Red Deal Pine Board": http://www.strahan.ie/tradeshop/viewitem.php?productid=104

    Would something like this be strong enough and not split? Whatever board I use needs to be a minimum of 60cm wide.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    :rolleyes: Ouch..........I see several landmines in your approach.
    Are you happy to mix the door colour with the rest of the unit 'cos you will never get a stain to match exactly.
    The unit will need be designed around the door sizes so maybe bring the wife to your hardware store and try and get a close match to a veneered board.?
    Please don't use laminated board - it will move with the seasons by as much as 10 mm over a 600mm width.
    You seem to have enough gear to tackle the job - if you don't want stick on edging try glueing on solid wood strips to the core with polyurethane glue - as long as you have the clamps of course.
    Using sheet material you really can't screw and plug the components together ( I'd use a biscuit joiner + long clamps ) but have a look at the Miller dowel system - they come in various woods.
    Best of luck.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,745 ✭✭✭SachaJ


    The issue I have with edging is how is it done then you come to a rounded corner? Other then that, I'd have a shot at the Birch plywood.

    The alternative is not to use a router on the edges but get child safe bumpers until they are old enough not to smack their heads on it (keep in mind the youngest is not due for a few weeks yet).


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    SachaJ wrote: »
    The issue I have with edging is how is it done then you come to a rounded corner? Other then that, I'd have a shot at the Birch plywood.

    The alternative is not to use a router on the edges but get child safe bumpers until they are old enough not to smack their heads on it (keep in mind the youngest is not due for a few weeks yet).

    You mean you want to round over a right angled corner to make it safe ?
    If leaving the edge 'bare' ie exposed birch plywood ( which actually looks nice ) just make a rounded ( right angle ) template corner by hand from some mdf, clamp or tape it down to your worktop and round it with a top bearing router bit.
    If you glue on edge strips they need to be at least 10mm deep to accept the same trimming and best mitred. Of course you could just round anything by hand with a sanding block - it won't be quite as crisp as a router.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,856 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    If your going to stain the birch ply do a sample before you start, I have had trouble getting it to take stain evenly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭zarafiq


    You may find youtube videos from 'askwoodman' user useful. He has a 64 episodes HD saga on making plywood boxes.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭zarafiq


    @recipio
    I think this is the rounding OP was talking about:
    http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/members/danclark-albums-general-pics-picture2930-makita-1016-sh-round-over-edges.jpg
    Sth that may not appeal to everyone when done on plywood.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    zarafiq wrote: »
    @recipio
    I think this is the rounding OP was talking about:
    http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/members/danclark-albums-general-pics-picture2930-makita-1016-sh-round-over-edges.jpg
    Sth that may not appeal to everyone when done on plywood.

    Fair enough, plywood does not look too good when a deep chamfer or roundover edge is routed.
    I think the OP would like to use birch ply which has nice tight layers and can be rounded over with a small 2 -3 mm radius router bit.These have a bottom bearing and if the corner is rounded over then the bearing will just follow the curve. Of course the trick is to first round over the corner neatly.
    I see a trend on TV programmes is to use a light paint 'wash' on birch ply to take away the yellow look. Looks nice.


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